/ Top rope leading, the way ahead.
Once the nut is placed we then clip with a quick draw and the rope. We believe that this is the ultimate development of British Trad climbing, preserving the ethic of leader place protection whilst totally eliminating risk. At the moment we see it being of more use on single pitch routes but hope that with time and a long enough clipstick routes such as Indian Face and Agags Groove could be possible, with no risk to the climber. Exciting times.
Excellent idea, I shall put this to the development team.
Brilliant. You could eliminate headpointing overnight.
long enough clip stick and you only need one nut too. good idea.
how about replacing the stick with a quadcopter?
The quad could have a small camera and raspberry pi computer to memorise the route. you could even down load routes into the quad copter. That way new routes could be safely protected before you step off the ground.
Side-runners are good, but I prefer to place a top-runner when leading.
Yes but think about the positive training effects of having to hang on for ages with one hand while fiddling the clip stick and gear with the other. Also, there are routes with ledges where the dangerous climbing is above the ledge, for example the crux run out of Right Wall is above the girdle ledge on the Cromlech. Top rope leading would solve the scary run out issue! I might try it next year as have been wanting to do Right Wall for a while but have been put off by the thought of falling onto the ledge.
Yeah wouldn't work for Indian Face, would need the helibot idea for that but I think using mechanically propelled props is not on. It's important to maintain the trad ethic, you know.
in a japanese climbing museum once i saw a thing some japanese had taken to the alps in the 1890s and caused a stir.
it was a long (+/- 5m) wooden pole with a brass ring at one end and a brass pointy section at the base. apparently you threaded a rope thru it and leant it against the rock then climbed, belayed thru the brass ring. keep moving it up pitch by pitch.
didnt look too light, so manybe your modern version will debug the problems.
Ah, I now know where Stanage Pole came from!
Another case in point is the Dervish with its initial run out. Sorted! BUT you must have both feet at least a bit off the ground as otherwise there's no leading involved. Thinking about, might be a bit hard to hang on to those starting crimps on the Dervish for long - but better than busting an ankle falling off higher up.
Maybe indoor walls could set up cracks so we can practice the technique without the RISK of getting cold or too far away from a Latte.
You jest but I once saw a chap at Stoney doing this with an 'improvised' clip-stick (aka a long branch and some finger-tape).
I thought Pete Whittaker's use of bamboo was quite clever. (not as a clip-stick but to enable an extender to be clipped)
Not aware of any other examples of folk doing this sort of thing on route (as opposed to from the ground or hanging from a bolt), but no doubt there have been some!
They aren't leading though, are they? Bog standard top roping, nothing to write home about.
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