/ Prusik Loops

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HB47 - on 28 Oct 2013
What is the best mm rope for prusik loops and the best length. Also does it matter if the climbing rope is 11, 10.5 or 9mm re the mm of the Prusik loops - thanks
AdCo82 on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to HB47:

5mm is what I use....but I believe Glenmore Lodge now ask cliehts tobuse 6mm
HB47 - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to An Triubhas: thanks, does the size of the climbing rope make any difference ?
highclimber - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to HB47: I use 6mm. I find most 5mm cord to be quite stiff anyway besides it not being as strong as 6mm.
ice.solo - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to HB47:

it matters.

prussicks work better the greater the difference between diameters, so 5mm will grip well on 9mm but be a bit scary (tho adequate). with 11mm you could be happy with 7mm which feels more like real rope.

length: i like shorter as they take up less room on the harness. can extend with slings. i carry 2 x loops of 5mm, each loop about 40cm (made of 1m lengths).
highclimber - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to HB47: not really, you just have to put more turns in. that is unless the diameter differential is small i.e. the prussic being similar in diamter in which case it might not bite at all.
teh_mark - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to HB47:

I use 5mm. It's plenty strong enough (rated to about 500kg static). In theory the diameter of the rope matters, but in practice it doesn't seem to make enough difference to be a problem, not that I've encountered anyway. If you don't have enough 'bite' then just add an extra wrap to your prusik knot of choice.
HB47 - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to teh_mark: thanks for the info.
jezb1 - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to HB47: I have one 5mm, one 6mm. Both about 120cm of cord leaving a closed loop similar in size to inside of thumb to inside of elbow.
GrahamD - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to HB47:

I tend to go for 6mm because its more friendly on the hands but I'd be happy to use 5mm strength wise.

Length is a personal choice. I tend to use 1m lengths of cord which gives a finished loop about 300mm long. Any longer and a)its just more clutter to carry 99% of the time b) I find its exactly the right length for the knot so if it isn't extended it won't get jammed up. For ascending you really don't want to be standing in cord in rock boots so you'll need to add a sling in any case.
jkarran - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to HB47:

I use slings, saves carrying stuff I'd be sure to forget on the day I actually needed it. I'm sure someone will tell me I'm going to die but they work just fine.

jk
ice.solo - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to jkarran:

you will die, but probably not from prussicking.

funnily enough, i carry my prussicks to use (and have done so) as last-ditch slings.
teh_mark - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to jkarran:

Is abrasion not a problem? Genuine question. I'm not sure I'd be happy using my slings as prusiks on a regular bassis - I guess it all depends on how much prusiking you do though.
David Coley - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to teh_mark:
> (In reply to jkarran)
>
> Is abrasion not a problem? Genuine question. I'm not sure I'd be happy using my slings as prusiks on a regular bassis - I guess it all depends on how much prusiking you do though.


If you are prusiking on a regular basis, I suggest you don't use slings or cord, but a mechanical device.
Choss on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to HB47:

Arguably a bit Heavy, but i Just carry a Shunt.

Quick smooth and easy for prusiking, i always use it for abseil Protection, very quick in self Rescue Situation for Escaping the system, plus have used for self belaying for donkeys years with no Problems, despite the naySayers.

In my Opinion multifunctionality of the Shunt makes Those extra Grams worthwhile

Jim Walton on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to HB47: I prefer 6mm as it releases a little easier in the wet. With 5mm on an 10mm rope when loaded, I find it can be a real bitch to release. I know that you can use a wire gate to release it but from experience of Rescue Day on MIA I'm glad I had 6mm.
r0x0r.wolfo - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to HB47: Hey, if you're using 10mm+ rope then be looking at 6mm. If you're getting towards 9mm then a lot of people start getting 5mm. The larger the difference in diameter the more the smaller diameter cord will 'bite' into the larger diameter rope. This can be a good or a bad thing.

Cord is cheap, make a couple from both 5mm and 6mm and see what works best for you.
alooker - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to HB47: 5/6mm will work fine on most ropes. The smaller the diameter the more bite you'll have, which can also make it hard to release! If you're using them in pairs a lot as ascenders then something dedicated like a ropeman or even tibloc will 'feel' better when you're hanging in space - tying backup knots every few meters is always a good way to go anyway. Using slings for prusiks is fine, but favour nylon as dyneema can melt at surprisingly low temps - especially if using as an ab backup where heat can be a problem.
jkarran - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to teh_mark:

> Is abrasion not a problem? Genuine question. I'm not sure I'd be happy using my slings as prusiks on a regular bassis - I guess it all depends on how much prusiking you do though.

I don't use them much and almost all my quickdraws are 60cm so the chance of any one sling being used more than a handful of times before it's lost or trashed some other way is slim.

I'd take cord if I was planning a big ab or jammers if I was planning to ascend a rope. These things are however rarely very well planned :)

jk
jkarran - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to alooker:

Dyneema mix slings don't melt while abbing.
jk
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Jonny2vests - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to teh_mark:
> (In reply to jkarran)
>
> Is abrasion not a problem? Genuine question. I'm not sure I'd be happy using my slings as prusiks on a regular bassis - I guess it all depends on how much prusiking you do though.

It's fine, just not the cheapest. Dyneema mix is fine too. I use slings when I forget to take prussiks.

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