UKC

For routes such as Mont Blanc du Tacul etc what amount and lengthof quickdraws would you take?

In reply to An Triubhas:

^An open question with no specific objectives other than a summit mentioned...

Assuming you're talking about something technical on the Triangle or East face; I'd take 10 draws plus a daisy chain/cows tail or an extra two to clip while you prepare your belay stance. That'd give you a clip every 5m on a full (60m) rope length.

If you're looking to get on a mixed line my emphasis would be on extendible sling draws but if you're wanting to get on an ice gully then not so necessary unless it's really lean or you have limited screws and need to use rock either side of the gully.

Regardless, half ropes can mitigate the demand on extendable draws so I'd just take a set of the longest draws you can afford with two/three made with 60cm slings.

In reply to An Triubhas:

If you are just heading up the "normal" route then you won't really need any but you might want to come back via the cosmiques arete in which case you could do with 5 or 6 for moving together and the odd short pitch.

In reply to Removed User:

Thanks, that's the kind of thing I'm looking at. What lengths would you then suggest?

In reply to An Triubhas:

TBH, I've only ever used standard quick draws on the Cosmiques. It's really not that hard. I wouldn't make a special effort to buy new ones if you just have standard ones.

In reply to Removed User:

What are you classing as standard?

In reply to An Triubhas:

What have you got?

In reply to Removed User:

18cm and 13cm so far

In reply to An Triubhas:

On Contamine Grisolle on the Tacul I took about 6 WC Nitros (20cm), a couple of 120cm slings and a sling cowstailed to your harness for clipping into the in situ anchors (mostly tat so worth backing up).

I found that to be plenty, on many sections the ground was easy enough to run it out. On that note, 60m ropes are worth having. I got caught short a few metres before the belay on a couple of pitches on a 50.

In reply to An Triubhas:

one of each?