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Topic - Route setting - art, science or random?

full stottie on 29 Oct 2013
I've been musing about how indoor routes are set. I know there are courses and associations for route setters, but are there some principles behind it all? Seems to me that on the walls I frequent, easier routes = bigger holds, more holds and closer together, and harder routes = smaller holds, fewer of them and further apart.

This is not quite how real outdoor routes are, or is it?

And are indoor routes set with leading or top-roping in mind?

Most route-setters will climb harder than I can, so can they set easier routes that are satisfying and challenging?


Feedback from route setters and wall users welcome!


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