/ Australia

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Lew13 - on 30 Oct 2013
Have got a few questions regarding Australia not all them to do with climbing.

Is there an Australian version of UKC? Mainly to find climbing partners and potentially accommodation.

Is there much climbing close to Sydney?

Finally, does anyone have any experience of looking for accommodation over there specifically a room to rent? Any heads up on good websites to use would be appreciated.

Ta in advance.
needvert on 30 Oct 2013
In reply to Lew13:

Gumtree, online classifieds, can be useful.

Blue Mountains is the place to go from Sydney, guide book mentions camping spots. Is a shortish train ride from Sydney (2h?). Has stuff in the 8m-300m range. You may need bolt plates.

If you're just in au to climb maybe get to arapiles in Victoria - probably will have better luck finding partners there.

If it were me I'd at least bring a TR self belay device.
Lew13 - on 30 Oct 2013
In reply to needvert:

Thanks. That hard to find partners is it?

Would be going to work so unfortunately cannot pick the best places to climb!
needvert on 30 Oct 2013
In reply to Lew13:

If you're working 9-5 M-F it'll be much easier. Finding people for weekdays is where it can be a struggle.
Rob Parsons on 30 Oct 2013
In reply to Lew13:

> Is there an Australian version of UKC? Mainly to find climbing partners and potentially accommodation.

It's a big country, and there are various on-line groups. Try a post on http://www.chockstone.org/ to get started.

> Is there much climbing close to Sydney?

Yes.
turtlespit - on 30 Oct 2013
In reply to Lew13: there's a 'Sydney Climbers' group on Facebook. Also a bunch of climbing centres dotted across Sydney so you can meet people there before climbing outside with them.

Lots of crags dotted around Sydney as well, though not as good as the blue mtns. See http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Sydney

Blue mtns is more of a sport destination. There is trad, but it's softer sandstone so not ideal for trad. Lots of crags in walking distance from Blackheath, with Shipley Upper being one of the most popular. Train is pretty good value, with Sydney to Blackheath being around $A12 for an off-peak (ie weekend day) return ticket.

Check out thecrag.com for the blue mtns crags. Rough guide is grade 18 is about F6a, 23 is F7a and 29 is F8a (if you're cranking that hard).
Martin Hore - on 30 Oct 2013
In reply to Lew13:

I was in the Sydney area in April 2012 while travelling. I was advised just to turn up at one of the popular Blue Mountain crags at the weekend and find someone to climb with which is what I did and it worked fine. Very friendly people and no shortage of offers to climb all day. You'll need to choose the right crag though. I went to Shipley Upper which is mostly single pitch sport with some good climbing in the easier grades and an easy path along the base.

Later in our trip I met some of the same climbers in Yangshuo!

I guess Shipley may be a bit close to the bush fires right now though.

I'd agree with one of the posters above re Arapiles being the top place to go but it's a long trip from Sydney.
Siderunner - on 31 Oct 2013
In reply to Lew13:

I've recently moved to Sydney, been here 4 months.

There is a decent amount of climbing nearer Sydney than the blueys, there's an electronic guidebook you can download from the sydney Rockies website. Crags I've enjoyed include mount Kuring-Gai, Berowra, Joll's Bridge, Lindfield (bouldering), all are less than an hours drive if you're on the north side. There are good south side crags too but I've not explored those.

The blueys is less than 2 hours to the crag from most parts of sydney. It's a mix of trad and sport, with a lot of scary adventures if you want em, or simple bolt clipping. Not many routes of more than 3 pitches admittedly. Mount Piddington is a good example of a single pitch crag, with dozens of three star trad routes up to E2ish (and some harder). Narrow Neck is a good multipitch crag with lots of doable routes of 2 or 3 long pitches. There are 20 or more quality crags in the blueys guidebook each of which could occupy many visits.

Two other big quality crags nearish Sydney are Nowra: sport climbing up to 25m; and Point Perpendicular: scary trad sea cliff routes in the mould of Gogarth/Pembroke. Both are about 2.5 hours down the coast and are near nice beaches so make for good weekends away.

I'm keen to get out at weekends, so mail me if you get here and we'll organise something. Check my logbook for some of what I've done since getting here too - note I've been focussing on sport mainly due to personal preference though I've done some trad as well.

Cheers, Andy
Tim Chappell - on 31 Oct 2013
In reply to Lew13:


If I could be a climbing bum around Sydney, I think I'd probably just show up in the climbing shop in Katoomba and ask them if there was anyone around looking for a partner. Tho' obviously a more organised approach than that might bring quicker divvies.
Tim Chappell - on 31 Oct 2013
In reply to Siderunner:

Just for interest, is there any climbing on the sea cliffs between The Gap and Bondi?
Siderunner - on 31 Oct 2013
In reply to Tim Chappell:

From the e guide bondi itself is a 1 star crag with reasonable rock in places and 15 listed routes.

There are many many cliffs all around Sydney metropolitan area, with something like 100 listed in the e guide altogether. But many are pretty crap as far as I can tell. Plenty of options if you like choss and/ or exploring obscurities, but only a dozen (or two?!) crags have both quality rock and a days worth of starred routes. I may investigate these once I've polished off more of the gems ;-)

All this bearing in mind im no expert - I've only been here a few months.
Tim Chappell - on 31 Oct 2013
In reply to Siderunner:

NSW sandstone can be a bit dodgy. I tried bouldering at Dangar Island in the Hawkesbury River. I did quite a lot of plummeting, because it was coming off in my hands.
goose299 - on 10 Nov 2013
In reply to Lew13:
You going over to do a year, Lew?
Can put you in contact with numerous people out there
michaelc54 - on 11 Nov 2013
chris fox on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Tim Chappell:

The Gap is off limits, you may find your gear confiscated but people still sneak in for a fast ascent ! shame as an old mate of mine has put up masses of good stuff there (and the rest of Oz !). There's a 21 crack line which is obvious when you get to the gap.

Diamond bay has some good lines on it, Gloucester Buckets goes at 20 and is a worthwhile line. Easy walk in access to a sea cliff too. North Bondi has some climbs just down from the Golf Course.

Bouldering at Queens Park (near Bondi) has bouldering from V1-V9.

If you get up to Blackheath just go to the coffee shops (ther's 3 in town) and you will spot the climbers, just get chatting to them, there's usually someone looking for a partner.
Blinder - on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Lew13: I moved to Sydney last week. Just one comment: It is really expensive, and I am have been living in Switzerland for the last 7 years. Have not been to a climbing shop, but if it is as bad as the bikes shops it is expensive! Try and bring as much as you can out with you.

Get in touch if you want anymore advice.

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