UKC

Hello.

I am not sure whether this belongs in this forum or The Winter Climbing forum.

I saw a youtube video of Dave Mcleod training for his first ascent of The Hurting - super hard Scottish Winter mixed route - to prepare for it he did some boouldering including a V13 problem.

Is bouldering outdoors good training for hard Scottish Winter Climbing?

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit: Its better than a poke in the eye.

In reply to Andrew.Davies:

Hello Andrew.

What do you mean by your post?

I do not get it!

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit: Ok I haven't seen that film but I'm guessing Dave Mac worked out that there were particluar moves, or particular strenghs required for his ice route that he could train by using a particular kind of boulder problem. That doesn't mean that all bouldering is good training for all winter climbing. It also doesn't mean bouldering is NOT good training for winter climbing - the 'better than a poke in the eye' comment above means that bouldering might not be the best training for winter work, but it will be better than no training at all.
I don't know what I'm talking about though - I don't boulder or winter climb!

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Dry tool bouldering could be the next big thing.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Have you done any easy Winter Climbing? That is probably a good start.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:


Bouldering is good training for winter climbing in the same way as weight-lifting is good training for cross-country skiing.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I think MacLeod was training for Rhapsody at that time. It's likely the bouldering was useful for this, not for winter climbing. As he says in E11, he sometimes went winter climbing on 'rest days', take from that what you will!

In reply to winhill: been doing it for years. Best thing is the popular areas are always in condition

youtube.com/watch?v=jNrdI1nUPmM&

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I can't remember if it was after Demon Direct (IX,9) or Happy Tyroleans (IX,10) that Dave stated he'd first felt that high-level rock-climbing mileage had assisted his ascent.

Don't know if this answers your question, but my gut feeling is that at your stage bouldering is of very little relevance to your winter climbing objectives.

Bucketloads of psyche and a willingness to suffer. Do you have these?

In reply to ripper:

No worries ripper.

This ia a boulder forum!

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Hey Michael.

I think bouldering would be useful training for Rhapsody as a F8a/V10 boulder problem is after the crack of Requiem.

Bye

Sav

In reply to Mountain Spirit: have a think Savvas, what is Dave using most when climbing those problems? Do they relate to what he needs when winter climbing?

Dave M is an incredible climber in all disciplines, it must be very hard to keep a foot in the door of all of these whilst also pushing the limits of each one. Even more so when seasons overlap for each discipline, and even more so when you live somewhere that is renowned for having unpredictable weather!

I really doubt that he saw a strong link between that problem and his hard winter climbing. Perhaps he is pushing both bouldering and winter climbing in the colder months, that way he can make the most of the weather whilst also keeping fit for routes in summer.

In reply to Jamie B:

Hi Jamie.

I would suspect that high-level rock-climbing mileage would assist on such routes - the first one , the summer line The Demon is E2 5b.

I have these - gallons of psyche and a willingness to suffer.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to The New NickB:

Hello New Nick.

I am going to do my first session with a guide or MIC instructor this winter if winter waking/winter skills goes well.

It would be a great start.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Mountain Spirit: I reckon the best training for Scottish winter climbing is to go for a naked run in the rain while being chased by a pack of angry dogs then trowing yourself into a big patch of stingy nettles.