/ System wall and training

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Žiga Janež - on 31 Oct 2013
If you have a chance, than you have to try training on system wall.

http://www.vimeo.com/44298110
Pino - on 31 Oct 2013
In reply to Žiga Janež: that's a great one. Well done Roberto Bagnoli for developing it. I hope some climbing gym, in London fits one.

http://www.climbingtraining.it/it/
Jackwd - on 31 Oct 2013
In reply to Žiga Janež: can you buy these anywhere?
Žiga Janež - on 31 Oct 2013
In reply to Jackwd: Try to build it by yourself. All you have to do is to by climbing holds that are symmetric - http://www.climbingtraining.it/it/attrezzature-systemwall-fingerboards
French Erick - on 31 Oct 2013
In reply to Jackwd:
I have used them: searched for other option and they came cheapest uk based.
http://www.climbukshop.com/section.php/99/1/system-board-sets/4a0ae65b6ae5e963da1295afa559d54f

There is a uk based guy does it as wooden holds, outwith my budget but it would have been my prefered option:
http://www.woodenholds.com/index.php?route=common/home
cb_6 - on 31 Oct 2013
In reply to Pino:
> I hope some climbing gym, in London fits one.

Westway have one. Not the same as that, but a systems board nonetheless.
Pino - on 01 Nov 2013
In reply to cb_6: Unusable: asymmetrical, cheap plastic & wooden, either too small or too large holds. No thought behind, really.
Pino - on 01 Nov 2013
In reply to Jackwd: He sells directly the holds in terracotta, however, I believe, resin ones are being or have been developed, too.
lmarenzi - on 01 Nov 2013
In reply to Pino:

If you are talking about the WW systems board, its perfectly symmetric with two side-by-side "lanes", the holds are resin or wood, and the holds range from pretty big to pretty small, giving Font 5+ and up difficulty to go from bottom to top using side pulls, pockets, crimps, slopers or undercuts. We use it all the time.

The thought behind it is:

screw ons only for feet
stay face on ...
don't let go ...
and get the POWWAHH!

PM me if you want some ideas for system board exercises at WW, my mates and I are bound to come up with something you would find worthwhile
Pino - on 01 Nov 2013
In reply to lmarenzi: I'm quite familiar with it; in my humble opinion, still a very rudimentary tool, especially in the context of a good climbing gym, such as WW. I think the concept of training on a system wall still lags behind, in the UK and preference is often given to the fashionable campusing or finger boards. It looks cool to climb with feet in the air, kind of thing... :-)
For a start the wall at WW is too steep (ideally it would be between 10-25 degrees or even adjustable)and most holds too small, putting off a lot of low-mid grades climbers(up to 7a,routes). Secondly the holds are not on the same level in a symmetrical pattern (probably a short-cut to use fewer holds, but it defeats the objective). Thirdly the sizes vary with the shapes (i.e. you don't have the same shape in different sizes, therefore you either don't hold it, hold it or find a certain type of hold too easy).
A system wall should assist a climber in the acquisition of strength whilst working on one's body coordination and movements, therefore advisable even at a relatively early stage and definitely well before resorting to campusing and finger-boarding, where one tends to neglect coordination and use of the feet. Therefore most types of holds should suit most climbers at most levels. But I'm sure we all like different things; happy climbing! :-)
lmarenzi - on 01 Nov 2013
In reply to Pino:

Hmm, hadn't thought of all that.

You are right that some of the holds are too small, too far apart, the footholds are too poor and the ground is too steep. I always thought it was just me ...

Happy climbing to you too.
French Erick - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to lmarenzi:
> (In reply to Pino)
>
> The thought behind it is:
>
> screw ons only for feet
> stay face on ...
> don't let go ...
> and get the POWWAHH!
>

I made a wee system board. I am working on skills and habits as much as on pure strength. I am wondering if that face on would not back fire on you? In real climbing you have to not stay face on often, so programming yourself to stay face on has to be counter-productive in the long run? Unless you are only planning on climbing only system boards?
This is a genuine question and would like a discussion on this.
I apply most of the other points though.
lmarenzi - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to French Erick:

You are absolutely right that it would be counterproductive in the long run if you only climbed on it, but the systems board is a SUPPLEMENT and is meant to make you stronger on the moves you train. I spend no more than 5% of my climbing time on it.

One bonus is that climbing front on actually has a big technique element to it which your body learns. It is handy to have this technique in your toolbox when nothing else works and it's time to unleash the beast.

When I go climbing on boulders or routes I find myself much more attuned to finding an easy sequence with fancy foot work because I know how hard staying face-on is. And also because having stronger fingers takes away some desperation and I can afford to invest a bit more time while hanging poor holds to find the easy beta, at my grade.

Google Malc Smith Pro Tips for some more on this.
Fraser on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to lmarenzi:

Agreed, it's a way to target specific strength training, rather than technique training. I think Malcolm Smith advises he tried to "train wide" as that's where he felt he was weak. Relatively speaking of course!
lmarenzi - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Fraser:

Yup, take pride in the wide
Steve nevers on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to French Erick:
> (In reply to Jackwd)
> I have used them: searched for other option and they came cheapest uk based.
> http://www.climbukshop.com/section.php/99/1/system-board-sets/4a0ae65b6ae5e963da1295afa559d54f
>


Nice discount on this month too.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Fraser on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Steve nevers:

Also worth googling 'system tiles', which have a number of hold varieties on the one bolt-on hold, which you can rotate depending on your training plan. They're about 150-200mm square and a number of manufacturers do them. It might work out cheaper / more effective going down this route.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.