/ System wall and training
I have used them: searched for other option and they came cheapest uk based.
There is a uk based guy does it as wooden holds, outwith my budget but it would have been my prefered option:
Westway have one. Not the same as that, but a systems board nonetheless.
If you are talking about the WW systems board, its perfectly symmetric with two side-by-side "lanes", the holds are resin or wood, and the holds range from pretty big to pretty small, giving Font 5+ and up difficulty to go from bottom to top using side pulls, pockets, crimps, slopers or undercuts. We use it all the time.
The thought behind it is:
screw ons only for feet
stay face on ...
don't let go ...
and get the POWWAHH!
PM me if you want some ideas for system board exercises at WW, my mates and I are bound to come up with something you would find worthwhile
For a start the wall at WW is too steep (ideally it would be between 10-25 degrees or even adjustable)and most holds too small, putting off a lot of low-mid grades climbers(up to 7a,routes). Secondly the holds are not on the same level in a symmetrical pattern (probably a short-cut to use fewer holds, but it defeats the objective). Thirdly the sizes vary with the shapes (i.e. you don't have the same shape in different sizes, therefore you either don't hold it, hold it or find a certain type of hold too easy).
A system wall should assist a climber in the acquisition of strength whilst working on one's body coordination and movements, therefore advisable even at a relatively early stage and definitely well before resorting to campusing and finger-boarding, where one tends to neglect coordination and use of the feet. Therefore most types of holds should suit most climbers at most levels. But I'm sure we all like different things; happy climbing! :-)
Hmm, hadn't thought of all that.
You are right that some of the holds are too small, too far apart, the footholds are too poor and the ground is too steep. I always thought it was just me ...
Happy climbing to you too.
> The thought behind it is:
> screw ons only for feet
> stay face on ...
> don't let go ...
> and get the POWWAHH!
I made a wee system board. I am working on skills and habits as much as on pure strength. I am wondering if that face on would not back fire on you? In real climbing you have to not stay face on often, so programming yourself to stay face on has to be counter-productive in the long run? Unless you are only planning on climbing only system boards?
This is a genuine question and would like a discussion on this.
I apply most of the other points though.
You are absolutely right that it would be counterproductive in the long run if you only climbed on it, but the systems board is a SUPPLEMENT and is meant to make you stronger on the moves you train. I spend no more than 5% of my climbing time on it.
One bonus is that climbing front on actually has a big technique element to it which your body learns. It is handy to have this technique in your toolbox when nothing else works and it's time to unleash the beast.
When I go climbing on boulders or routes I find myself much more attuned to finding an easy sequence with fancy foot work because I know how hard staying face-on is. And also because having stronger fingers takes away some desperation and I can afford to invest a bit more time while hanging poor holds to find the easy beta, at my grade.
Google Malc Smith Pro Tips for some more on this.
Agreed, it's a way to target specific strength training, rather than technique training. I think Malcolm Smith advises he tried to "train wide" as that's where he felt he was weak. Relatively speaking of course!
Yup, take pride in the wide
> I have used them: searched for other option and they came cheapest uk based.
Nice discount on this month too.
Also worth googling 'system tiles', which have a number of hold varieties on the one bolt-on hold, which you can rotate depending on your training plan. They're about 150-200mm square and a number of manufacturers do them. It might work out cheaper / more effective going down this route.
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