So I'm looking for nominations of quality lines on otherwise rank awful crags. I'm thinking of the grim, chossy quarries with one strip of good rock that serves up an unexpected gymnastic gem or the vegetated obscurities with a clean line of character.
Here's one to start the list:
I was ambling round Cheddar the other day scouting out some of the more obscure outcrops when I came across Black Rock Quarry http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17664. It's a scenic spot in a pretty valley, but the rock quality is epically awful with lots of evidence of geological exfoliation. A substantial section of the left end of the upper tier looks to have suffered a spectacular recent collapse and the remains look unstable enough to be a worry to walk under, let alone climb! Plenty has changed since this deceptively stable looking photo: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=197532
Just as you are giving up hope and most of the crag has passed, the main face turns a corner and rears up to a full 20m, and then, THERE it is - a classic looking pitch up a clean cut corner which then daintily sidesteps into an upper groove with good cam placements all the way and solid clean rock to boot http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=224656 (Black Rock Corner). Looks worth a star at least and is now firmly ensconced on my wishlist, just need a partner, good weather and some climbing form now, as steep HVS 5b will require one of my better days.
I'm reluctant to suggest anything in Lancashire as none of our quarries are anything near chossy. But I suppose the nearest thing to a 'diamond in the dirt' hereabouts - that I can think of anyway - is Mustard at Round Barn.
A steep start with instant exposure thanks to you being on a narrow ledge above a big hole, leads to some good moves up the slab and a boldish but easier finish. Super.
In reply to The Ivanator:
how about "the rat" in Ladybower quarry, Derbyshire. There are about 3 good routes in the entire place and you really have to be keen to find them through all the brambles.
Thread title reminds me of a very aptly named climb 'Diamonds and Dust' http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=132280. I thought this was a nice little sport climb on decent rock with lots of interesting crystalline features, in the otherwise unremittingly awful chosshole that is Tintern Quarry.
In reply to The Ivanator: Just to let you know that Black Rock Corner is as good or even better than it looks,very stiff start but once you get to the cracks it is brilliant.Someone else was on here recently saying how much they enjoyed it,probably about the second ascent in twenty years.
Great Crack, Dukes is the famous one: a contender for the best VS/HVS borderline route on grit when it's in nick. There are other worthwhile routes there though.
OK, if I'm wrong about the second, I could well be wrong about the first.
< Swivels hat round >
Lancs, it's great up there! I'll admit, your Malhams, your Gordales, your Kilnseys are all very well - in their own way. But when you get back to Flying Shed Quarry or the Evil Wall at Lester Mill... well, you know you've finally come home.
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> Lancs, it's great up there! I'll admit, your Malhams, your Gordales, your Kilnseys are all very well - in their own way.
Not forgetting all the fantastic crags around Silverdale: Warton, Trowbarrow, Woodwell, Jack Scout, Farleton (or is that technically in Cumbria?) and many smaller crags. It may be Lancashire, but it's my favourite climbing area in England.
I was going to suggest the delightful TBRORIG but the quarry has quite a few good routes albeit a few grades harder, so I didn't think it counted. Dukes has Dharma of course but that is way harder. Private Targets also pairs up with an excellent hard partner: Speak the Truth. Worlow has lots of good stuff. Cracked Rib would be the Broadbottom route but again other routes get stars.
In reply to The Ivanator: Another that comes to mind is The Corner at Slippery Ledge (Swanage) one of the Dorset coast's more obscure outposts, atmospheric, but generally undistinguished climbing except the classic corner feature that deserves its 2 stars and goes at an amenable HS 4b. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=45263
