In reply to ashlee:
Are you planning to do Bation/Nelion or just Pt Lenana?
We crossed the glacier at first light, alternate led all the way up with sacks on our back and without a guidebook - just followed our noses really. Started off about VD/Severe then we found a few harder pitches, about VS 4c. Quite knackering enough at 5000m with a sack on carrying sleeping bag etc.
We slept on the summit - 6 of us in the tin shack before abbing down the next day. 2 days for the technical ascent is fine but you might want a bit of contingency somewhere if they day you go for it is not good for some reason
PS the summit wasn't cold for me (December). I got so hot squashed inside the tin shack I crawled out and slept on the bare summit rock instead....
