UKC

Never noticed this before but it came up on grit kids that I was re-watching to cut the pain of 'strictly'. I've never got close to working a 5.11 move before so I was not a little surprised this was given 5.12. Also noticed Katy elegantly got a heel hook on the good arete hold at the crux, I had to smear right and heel hook a flake on the left and go more dynamically it still felt more like a 6a/b border move to me in terms of other things I got close to working (I hit the hold after a couple of goes but was so surprised I failed to latch it, then messed it up a few times, then got too tired).

In reply to Offwidth:

Where's that then?

In reply to jon: Nosferatu, Burbage South, Hot Aches Grit Kids film.

In reply to Offwidth:

Ah. Wondered if it was somewhere in USA, what with the US grades.

In reply to Offwidth

Go back on it. Challenge your (perceived) limitations. They may dissolve. You may be pleasantly surprised.

And it's a great place to be anyway!

Mick

In reply to jon:

FA by the ever so talented Andy Barker back in the early 1980s. A lovely person; you'd have really liked him. (Got seduced by Karate. One of those guys that was good at everything. Yeah, I know life's not fair!)

Great photo of him on Circe by John Kirk. You must have seen it in Stoney caff, back in the day. Pride of place.

Mick

In reply to Offwidth:
I think it always got 6c+ on the grit list, which is about right, so 11c or similar.

In reply to Offwidth:

You should come to Squamish, not like those fiendish J Tree / Valley grades.

In reply to abarro81: I always thought 12a was more 7a/7a+ which tied up with when I was trying harder on sport (ie its certainly nothing like that hard).

In reply to Mick Ward: I'm not happy scrabbling about on classics. I know how good I need to be from similar boulder problems for quite a few routes I tried to seconded in the past and I'll wait until then. I have been close a few times for a few long standing targets then injury or life getting in the way of climbing dropped my standards again. Routes like Downhill Racer are getting slowly trashed from people trying them who clearly lack the necessary talent I don't want to be a part of that. When seconding hard routes I'll give stuff a reasonable set of tries but then either pull over the crux if it looks OK above (as I did on Nosferatu....climbed the arête OK tired then failed again on the top) or simply untie and get the gear from ab.

In reply to Offwidth:


I've been away from The Peak for 12 years. Wasn't aware that stuff like DR was getting trashed. From what I remember from 32 years ago, the hard part on DR was just a couple of moves. You'd very quickly know whether you could do them.

It's a balance, I guess, between not going on stuff at all and risking trashing it. Most great climbers have gone on stuff, played around but stopped well short of risking trashing it. But, at times, a delicate balance. Your integrity does you credit.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

>From what I remember from 32 years ago, the hard part on DR was just a couple of moves.

Hmmm.

Nosferatu's nothing like 5.12, of course. And I'm not even sure it's X.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

John, I wouldn't want to mislead anybody. It was a long time ago. I was only seconding - and I can't even remember who I was seconding! So perhaps that says it all.

I do remember there being a balancy move near the top, much easier than the crux but, with no gear, it might well be thought-provoking if you were leading/soloing. Which I wasn't.

Mick

In reply to Offwidth:

An interesting viewpoint given that anyone TRing DR is probably using an approach similar to that which they would use to bag a Peak clip-up.