UKC

Used to climb on one set 'rocks' and one set of 'wallnuts'
now i only use 'rocks'
there are some infrequent occasions when a 'wallnut' will sit and a 'rock' won't however this is far outweighed IMO by the difficulty in cleaning the 'wallnuts'
convince me i'm wrong

In reply to John Kelly: agreed! I carry 3 sets - a classic, an anodised and a lightweight and find this covers most situations!

In reply to John Kelly:


Why? You're happy in your choice, I'm happy in mine. I like a set of each as I think that they do have their own properties and I can often second-guess which will sit best. I've never noticed any greater hastle in removing wallnuts, and do think they are better for outward-flaring cracks when placed sideways.

In reply to John Kelly:

have both and find the opposite of your findings so one of us is wrong

In reply to lost1977:


Or maybe you just have different perspectives?

In reply to Jamie B:

but this is UKc and different perspectives are no fun if you cant say someones wrong

In reply to Jamie B:

Or maybe they climb in different places

In reply to John Kelly:

Just put them in the dishwasher... they come up lovely every time...

In reply to John Kelly: I really dont like wallnuts as they stick like crazy,sometimes they stick while trying to get them into the placement never mind trying to get them out !.

Rocks are better in my opinion but stoppers even better still...

My reasoning with the rocks vs stoppers thing is simple,stoppers share the same profile as rocks but are shorter so fit into more places where a stopper wouldnt fit in the entrance to the placement so to speak,rocks are a bit stronger but also have an enormous swage to get in the way.

In reply to cliff shasby:
BD stoppers - I had a random one in my rack at some point and it worked nicely for the reason you stated
as 6 of my 'rocks' have been condemned as 'only having the strength of wet tissue paper' i may have to consider including BD stoppers in my letter to santa

In reply to John Kelly:
I started out with a set of each...now have 2 sets of walnuts and the rocks have stayed at the bottom of my bag for about 7 years or more...

In reply to John Kelly:

I've never bought any 'Wallnuts' but own about three full sets of them! So based on this alone, I'd agree with you that Wallnuts are more difficult to clean, for some people...

In reply to John Kelly:
3/4" BSF, full set of 2

In reply to John Kelly:
When leading I quite like the fact that wallnuts bight a bit more into the placements, I reassures me that it won't just pop out when I get above it.
I will admit that my seconds often complain that my gear is hard to clean. This is probably exacerbated by the fact that I have mostly ancient un-anodised wallnuts which seem to be made of slightly softer metal than the anodised ones.

In reply to Ron Walker:

Love it - my esteemed partner pulled 2 out of a classic langdale vs last week

Wallnuts -they do have their good points, i would agree with Jamie B that' they are better for outward-flaring cracks when placed sideways' but they do like to stay put

someone has already said that it may be related to rock type - i feel that one of these outdoor ed university types should set off with pye charts and a map - i need answers

In reply to lost1977:


Diferrent perspectives are fun. You are wrong.

Hmmmm... I see what you mean.

In reply to gethin_allen:

And becasue you seat them so damn hard


To the OP - it's personal preference. I find the wallnuts more versatile due to the groove. They definitely bite more easily than rocks, but I find that if you seat them gently they neither fall out or are difficult to clean. I used to have a set of classic rocks but sold them - sums it up for me. I now have a mix of wall nuts, offsets and peenuts (which are ace btw).

Cheers.

In reply to John Kelly:

I prefer Wallnuts as I climb almost exclusively on grit and I find the dishes on them allow me to get far better placements.

In reply to Jimbo C:

Well, I wouldn't want to make it too easy for you. Where's the fun in that?

In reply to Jamie B:

Is this the point where one of us starts throwing our toys out the pram, everyone picks a side and hurls abuse and blue straggler starts picking spelling and gramatic errors

In reply to Ron Walker:

Ditto

Wallnuts are incredibly fiddly to seat well, though there obviously will be the occasional placement which suits them. Climbing on mountain crags with a Wallnut heretic this summer we compromised and carried two sets of each (I usually carry a triple set of rocks). I led with two sets of rocks and one of Wallnuts (and he vive versa). Reserving the Wallnuts for placing from non-pumpy stable positions was just about tolerable.

In reply to lost1977:


There are 2 ms in grammatic.

In reply to Jamie B: My perspective is that they both work well but rocks sit better in well used placement on softer rock. Stands to reason I suppose... do think wallnuts will fit in some situations where rocks just won't....

In reply to Jamie B:

And should be a question mark at the end, after "errors".

Don't know about this issue with cleaning wallnuts. News to me. My rocks stay in my bag. Not sure why.

In reply to John Kelly:

You are of course all wrong.

Offsets are way Better 7;^P

In reply to John Kelly: I think it does depend on the rock. I have a set of each. I find wallnuts work best on grit. Rocks on limestone and I use a combo of both for everything else. If you don't yank them in really hard then they clean just aswell as each other