UKC

The hypothesis is that your choice of passive protection('Rocks or Wallnuts') is to some extent dictated by the rock you climb

so what i need from you is

1 the rock type you climb
2 your choice of protection ('Rocks or Wallnuts')

jamie and lost have to play nicely together

In reply to John Kelly: It doesn't make any difference, you get used to what you have.

In reply to John Kelly:

Bumbly Limestone.

Dont favour one or Other

In reply to John Kelly:

I can't say for sure about rocks and wallnuts, but I know for a fact that Metolius curve nuts are especially good for shale, BD Stoppers are ultra specialised schist gear and the Camp Pro Nuts only really worth carrying for dry tooling on chalk.

HTH.

In reply to John Kelly: wallnuts for those fiangely placements on limestone and offsets for those flared pockets on lime and granite. Used to own rocks but prefered the more complex shapes offered by the others. Tried curve nuts on the strnegth of the astronuts which are frigging awesome, but decided they didn't cut the mustard.

In reply to John Kelly:

1. Anything available, from dolerite to sandstone to granite.

2. I have a 3rd hand hodge podge set of (mostly) rocks that I invariably place badly anyway.

This probably doesn't help you much.

In reply to John Kelly: I try for and dream of granite, but due to time constraints spend a lot of time on grit...

Nuts of Choice:

1) Alloy Offsets, and peanuts for smaller sizes - these always seem to be placed!
2a) Wallnuts for granite or grit (generally rougher rocks where the complex shape beds in better).
2b) Rocks for limestone or other smoother rock.

(I've got some of all three due to either 'need for lots for TRs as someone in charge of a club with novices' or 'magpie-like acquisition of the shiny anodised gear' - I had a beaten-up set of classic rocks, which I supplemented with wallnuts, then realised how useful the anodising was so replaced the rocks, then fell in love with the offsets after borrowing them a few times...)

In reply to John Kelly: Gneiss & Granite - Wallnuts for normal size stuff, brass offsets for micros. Haven't used alloy offsets enough to form an opinion. Some guys here like metolius curve nuts, but for me they don't go big enough, and the narrow end is a bit wide.

In reply to John Kelly: mainly walnuts (and brass offsets for small placements) for rock. Anything old goes on the winter rack.

Selection of most types unless I am going very lightweight.

Its so dependent on the type of rock but also the grade often of what you are climbing. No one style of nut is better just different.

However I always have a giggle when a Wallnut or Rockcentric gives a good placement where nothing else would fit.

In reply to John Kelly: Mostly limestone, I have always preferred Wallnuts to rocks.

In reply to John Kelly:

Rocks, ancient chouinard stoppers and some weird micros from eastern europe.

Its the wizard, not the wand.

In reply to ice.solo:

Sorry. Granite, mostly. With ice on it.

In reply to ice.solo: The wand chooses the wizard, Mr Solo...

In reply to John Kelly:

They're bit's of metal on metal string, you make them work whichever you have, wherever you're climbing.

1: Bolted limestone
2: A mix of WC, HB, RPs and various foundlings

jk

In reply to MischaHY:

Hmmmmm......that may explain things

Mostly central belt dolerite and I always find use for rocks, wallnuts and IMPS.

In reply to John Kelly:

When I climb on rock I use Walnuts therefore by default if I climb on Walnuts I would use rocks.

In reply to John Kelly: don't have any preference as to rock type/nut type... Whether it's limestone/grit/granite/rhyolite blah blah I carry a selection of both plus offsets and RPs.

I just grab the first one I think will fit. The only time I would choose one over the other is in the large sizes where I need a long reach, the wire on my rocks is stiffer than on the wallnuts so I don't suffer droop when sticking my gear into a lovely crack

In reply to John Kelly:

Like others before me, I'm not conviced of a link but I'll be helpful and answer the question:

1) Gritstone, Limestone, Slate, Granite, Rhyolite, Dolerite, Schist, Andesite, Conglomerate

2) I have a set of Wallnuts and a set of Rocks...

In reply to John Kelly: I climb on limestone and rhyolite in the main. I have a set of rocks and some walnuts. The main difference I find is that the walnuts can be a lot harder to retrieve.

In reply to John Kelly:
1) Wallnuts.
2) Gneiss, granite, sandstone, gabro, schisty stuff, limestone, basalt. Probably most often with trad gear on limestone, granite and gneiss.

My theory is that you get used to using what you started out with and thereafter, changing to a different shape for no reason is unappealing. I started using a friends rack, he had wallnuts, so I use wallnuts.

In reply to John Kelly:

Do people really climb on only one rock-type? How bizarre.

I climb on all sorts and want as wide a range of options as possible at all times.