UKC

WANTED: Advice on getting onto more technical winter routes/climbs and what climbs to do this year?

Background: a good level of climbing and general winter skills, experience gully bashing in Scotland and water ice multipitches in Norway.

I want to get onto some good routes in the UK - basically step up from gullies to something more technical and with some good ice.

Any ideas?

Cheers

I'll just say what others will ask you anyway. What exactly is your experience? As in routes in your logbook.

I know some people who regard grade V classic gullies as Gully Bashing and are in their zone on VII, but a grade V to me would a massive achievement to me this winter.

In reply to erbridger: One of the courses listed here: http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/course-wintermountain-skills-index.asp will probably give you a lot of help with moving up the grades if that's what you're after. I would also suggest climbing with a partner with similar goals (i.e. to push yourself) or greater experience may help.

In reply to erbridger:
Grade III gullies usually have short ice pitches and so are natural place to start on Scottish ice. The condition of these can vary wildly but that is all part of the learning curve (as is the assessment of avalanche risk on exits). Then there are the easier honeypot ice routes like the Curtain which quickly get placement-ladders bashed into them and are a decent practice ground if you can find a non-crowded moment.