UKC

I am going to Chester for a long weekend at the end of the month and wonder if anyone could suggest suitable places for rock climbing within about 15 miles of Chester which would be in good enough condition to climb.
I generally do trad climbing to around Severe level with my children.

In reply to John Neale:

Helsby i would have thought - it might need to have been dry beforehand though

In reply to John Neale:

Sport climbing could give you other options. Try Dyserth Castle Slab where there are a few lower grade routes or same for Castle Inn. All in the A55 Sport Climbs guide.

In reply to John Neale:

Frodsham for bouldering?

In reply to John Neale:

I live in Chester and climb at around a similar grade, so should hopefully be able to help out here!

Helsby is the only crag within 15 miles. Most of the routes are above Severe, but if you're not averse to top roping or seconding there's some good routes to be had. Being sandstone, dry conditions are needed for it to be in good condition and not vulnerable to damage.

The A55 sport climb crags are good fun and convenient if you're willing to go the extra mile (so to speak!). As mentioned, Dyserth Castle slab has some good low grade routes. Just round the corner is Meliden quarry - limited routes, but a couple of trad climbs around your grade (trad not in A55 guide, but check out UKC crag index - the 'steps climbs' are very sparse on gear though). Pick of the bunch for low grade sport is Castle Inn in Colwyn Bay (50mins from Chester).

Other trad optins are Pothole Quarry (near Ruthin - but not much at all here below Severe) or Trevor (one or two severe's, plus sport routes too).

Hope this helps,

Mike.

In reply to John Neale:

Worlds End (Craig y Forwen) in Llangollen is pretty friendly at those grades, and the right hand edge of the top level is pretty sheltered too.

Maeshafn has good some good stuff at HS if you'll stretch a bit.