/ Big news on the grit

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wilkie14c - on 06 Nov 2013
Nathan Lee - 20 years old and already 2 x E9 and an E8
Katy Whittaker - a hugely significant accent of Gaia

I think its obvious Lee and Katy have declared open grit season


https://www.thebmc.co.uk/katy-whittaker-nathan-lee-hard-grit
GuyVG - on 06 Nov 2013
In reply to wilkie14c:

I enjoyed that interview, especially the bit about not hyping up an ascent because she's a girl, good attitude, men don't climb with their dicks do they?

It is worth noting that the author of that article Dave Mason did Meshugah in a reported 30 minute session, amazing stuff.

Well done to Nathan, Katy and Dave. Great inspiration for the new season.
thermal_t - on 06 Nov 2013
In reply to wilkie14c: Katy : "It climbs so well and the gear is in the perfect place."

I'm not going to lie to you, if I was good enough to climb Gaia I'd be wishing the gear was just a little higher!
Mark Collins - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to thermal_t: Yeah, I'm with you on that one. Also, funny how one of the climbing mags was promoting Knockin on Heaven's Door as E10 a while back, now E8 is its latest badge. Sorry for going a bit off topic there, it just struck me as odd with no change to the route that I'm aware of.
1poundSOCKS - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to Mark Collins: I think a hold broke, making it harder, so obviously it drops a couple of E points.
Ally Smith on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to Mark Collins:

Nathan used the cams out left on the "born slippy" variation. Knockin' approached as per the first ascentionist - but without the handplaced (actually hammered) peg is a solid E9 IMHO
Offwidth - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to thermal_t:

If the gear was higher it wouldn't be Gaia. Part of the call is the risk of the fall.
Michael Gordon - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to wilkie14c:

Well, news on the grit anyway. Haven't both of these had a fair number of ascents already? Certainly Gaia has had loads, including flash/onsight.
wilkie14c - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> (In reply to wilkie14c)
>
> Well, news on the grit anyway. Haven't both of these had a fair number of ascents already? Certainly Gaia has had loads, including flash/onsight.

Yes, both had seen plenty of action previously however I beleive both of these recent accents are significant because of the climbers involved. Nathan Lee at just 20 years old has firmly put himself at the front of hard grit in a way not seen since James Pearson. James came along and afte making his mark on the hard classics he added routes to the grit perviously thought impossible <Cratcliffe groove> so what future delights will Nathan add? Katy has not just reduced the perceeved male/female gap, she has bridged it. I think Lisa Rands was the first female accent of Gaia but Katy's grit portfolio shows she has made grit her own and has bigger cahoonies than most of her male counterparts. Lets not forget her pervious ticks - Braille Trail, Master's Edge, Kaluza Klein, Nosferatu, Paralogism, TBATB and now Gaia. An astounding talent
Franco Cookson on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to wilkie14c:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
> [...]
>
> Nathan Lee at just 20 years old has firmly put himself at the front of hard grit in a way not seen since James Pearson.

Jesus, more hyper-bole than a particularly excited kitchen mixing vessel.

Pete Whittaker climbed one of the hardest lines on grit aged 17 - born after James Pearson.

Nathan is repeating established hard classics in very good time, taking advantage of a new look on things and a history of bouldering. He's obviously nowhere near his full potential and has despite this still produced significant ascents and a load of new route. Keep going Nathan you magician.
Hardonicus - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to Franco Cookson: Didn't that 7 year Japanese kid come and piss all over the hard grit as well?
Franco Cookson on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to Hardonicus:

I believe he climbed many of the hard classics in good time, yes.
deepsoup - on 07 Nov 2013
Michael Gordon - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to wilkie14c:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
> [...]
>
> Yes, both had seen plenty of action previously however I beleive both of these recent accents are significant because of the climbers involved. Nathan Lee at just 20 years old has firmly put himself at the front of hard grit in a way not seen since James Pearson. James came along and afte making his mark on the hard classics he added routes to the grit perviously thought impossible <Cratcliffe groove> so what future delights will Nathan add? Katy has not just reduced the perceeved male/female gap, she has bridged it. I think Lisa Rands was the first female accent of Gaia but Katy's grit portfolio shows she has made grit her own and has bigger cahoonies than most of her male counterparts. Lets not forget her pervious ticks - Braille Trail, Master's Edge, Kaluza Klein, Nosferatu, Paralogism, TBATB and now Gaia. An astounding talent

I agree that Nathan's recent spree of routes has been impressive, perhaps more for the quantity than any one particular line?

I think it's definitely stretching things to say the male/female gap has been anywhere near bridged here. While those are no doubt great personal achievements and I would love to climb half as well as Katy, headpointing Gaia and those other routes isn't leading edge by any stretch of the imagination.
Michael Gordon - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

OK they weren't all headpoints but you know what i mean
johncoxmysteriously - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

No, it isn't; in fact seeing Nosferatu on that list gives one a painful sense of bathos.

When is one of the girls going to climb, say, Equilibrium, anyway? It's obvious someone like Shauna or Mina could do it if they really projected it. What's stopping them?

jcm
teflonpete - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to deepsoup:

Wow! Amazing talent.
drysori - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
>
> When is one of the girls going to climb, say, Equilibrium, anyway? It's obvious someone like Shauna or Mina could do it if they really projected it. What's stopping them?


The same thing that's stopping all of the male ascents? Has is even been climbed since Pearson did it?

Michael Gordon - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to drysori:

Think it still has had only 3 ascents?
Michael Gordon - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
>
> It's obvious someone like Shauna or Mina could do it if they really projected it. What's stopping them?
>

I guess the main thing is they're not into trad. A pity (perhaps).

GrahamD - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

I got a real slagging a few years ago for asking what about Equilibrium made it a *** route ? I still don't really know. From below it looks like a boulder problem perched on top of a much easier route, overlooked by far more impressive lines like Parthion Shot.

Maybe its just not inspiring enough ?
Franco Cookson on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to GrahamD: I agree, it looks rubbish. I assumed it was some no star E6 when I first saw it.

I'm sure it climbs well though and it's the only E10 on grit it seems...
Offwidth - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to GrahamD:

Maybe it climbs beautifully, deserves its 3 stars in that sense and is too hard?
John Roberts (JR) - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

It is really hard climbing, and on/off in a pretty dangerous position, but great moves.
GrahamD - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Offwidth:


> Maybe it climbs beautifully, deserves its 3 stars in that sense and is too hard?

Maybe. I'd be genuinely interested to hear from those qualified to judge (with the benefit of hindsight and without the hyperbole surrounding possibly the first E10). As a punter I can only comment on the aesthetics of the line.
Offwidth - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to GrahamD: Genuinely interested, really? I find I can just ask them, the stars don't live in a bubble you know: you can even email them through UKC. The line is OK enough: it's a big arete.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to GrahamD)
>
> I'm sure it climbs well though and it's the only E10 on grit it seems...

Has blind vision been downgraded then?
Morgan Woods - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to wilkie14c:

what's this "season" business? Don't people climb on grit year round?
Offwidth - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Many serious grit climbers wait for the grit to be called. A few heros or high moorland climbers are more year round.
GrahamD - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

Yes I'm genuinely interested. And I find these forums generally a good first port of call on things like this. You may know but I certainly don't - who of the people who genuinely have a chance at Equilibrium have seriously looked at it ? the ascentionists obviously but who else ? without posting how does anyone find out ?
GrahamD - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

>The line is OK enough: it's a big arete.

OK enough on its own isn't usually ***

Jon Read - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Offwidth:
I think waiting for some magical time of the year is a fallacy, as Nathan and others have shown. Depends very much on the route, position, and type of holds. I did my hardest grit lead in the middle of August mostly because I was psyched (although being mostly small edges and crimpy it didn't need mega-cold temps).

Conditions are usually an excuse: look at what Toru achieved.
Michael Gordon - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to GrahamD:

Dave MacLeod had a look at it a few years ago.

It looks like a stunning line in the photos/videos of James Pearson on it, but then they don't really show the bit below the ledge.
wilkie14c - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to GrahamD: if the route has its own DVD it automatically gets 3 stars
Offwidth - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Jon Read:

Maximising chances is not a bad idea on such a serious route. Toru as a hero did what he could on a visit and Nathan is a bigger hero but there is nothing wrong with getting conditions at their best. Conditions can obviously be good on some routes on some crags at any time of year (right humidity, temp, wind..)
Jon Read - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Offwidth:
Fair enough, but a dogmatic attitude to it (or anything really!) is self-limiting. Or something.
Offwidth - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Jon Read:

You're a hero too for what its worth :)

I do think Graham underestimates how open some of the top climbers are if you are not too po-faced with the questions or maybe it's late night beer at places like Kendal or Grindleford that does that to them combined with training reducing their resistance to alchohol? Mind you I remember asking a certain moorland wad in a full-day full-on guidebook checking meeting if he cut his beer intake before his hardest routes and he looked at me as if I was mad and said no :)
shark - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to wilkie14c:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
> [...]
>
> shows she has made grit her own and has bigger cahoonies than most of her male counterparts. Lets not forget her pervious ticks


Loving the typos

GrahamD - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

I live in Cambridge :-)
Offwidth - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to GrahamD: So did I once. We all learn.
andy farnell - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Franco Cookson: this is a grit E10 http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=188593

Andy F
Offwidth - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to andy farnell:

You don't give up do you. Remind me again what Franco's route would be in Dave's view if highly specialist modified gear didn't fit the monos (in other words in the exact style that Franco led it)?
pasbury on 11 Nov 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

Dunno. You'll have to ask gaskins about 'A moment of clarity' though ;-)

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