UKC

Silly Arete

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 spidermonkey09 11 Nov 2013
Did this yesterday and feeling the need to talk about it with like minded people: what a line!

Its all only just there, sizzling runout, good gear, sharp arete, and that heinous move through the overhang.

First E3- hope they're all that good! And perfect weather as well, amazing.

Any recommendations for other routes in a position that good? Only thing I've done that gets close is Pregnant Pause on Portland.

 mr mills 11 Nov 2013
In reply to spidermonkey09:

One of the best routes of its grade in Wales imo head over to Carreg Hyll Drem and do Samurai Groove, you won't be disappointed an absolute peach of a route and a bit out there !
 3 Names 11 Nov 2013
In reply to spidermonkey09:

Its great isnt it. One of my all time favorite routes. It took me about 20 years to finally get on it, wasnt dissapointed.
 nniff 12 Nov 2013
In reply to spidermonkey09:

If you liked that, then put Memory Lane on your list.
In reply to spidermonkey09:

Nice one on doing that for your first E3, there's certainly easier at that grade. Cracking route!
 Alun 12 Nov 2013
In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:
> Nice one on doing that for your first E3, there's certainly easier at that grade.

I agree! I backed off at a time where I was supposed to be "solid" at E3. I just couldn't do the move through the overhang. Nice to be humbled every now and again!
 Phill Mitch 12 Nov 2013
In reply to spidermonkey09: Great effort, I am not surprised you need to talk about it. I just had a look at your logbook and was amazed how soon you have got to the stage you are having a go at SA!
I have been looking at it for too long now and feel you have sown the seed of assertiveness for me, Cheers Phill.
In reply to spidermonkey09:

>Only thing I've done that gets close is Pregnant Pause on Portland

Good grief. Well, it takes all sorts.

SA's great - first saw it on that postcard Eric sells of Bob Chamberlain on it (whoever he is) and looking like he's laybacking up some arête which goes on for ever with no gear. That was in 1982. It took me the best part of ten years to notice that actually it was a slab and another eight years to actually get on it.

jcm
 John2 12 Nov 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: I think bathos is the word you're looking for.
 jim jones 12 Nov 2013
In reply to spidermonkey09:

Well done, I know a few E4/E5 leaders who've backed off (or even fallen off it).

Try Perygl on Yellow Walls at Gogarth; even wilder position with added benefit of you won't hit anything if you muff the crux!
 jim jones 12 Nov 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to spidermonkey09)
>
> >Only thing I've done that gets close is Pregnant Pause on Portland
>
> Good grief. Well, it takes all sorts.

Well it's a massive leap in standard!


In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Haha I didn't mean in terms of quality, just the exposure! I like Portland but compared to most of Wales it's crap by comparison.
In reply to jim jones: Cheers, already planning to head down to Gogarth for the first time in the summer so will have a look! A good fallout zone is always nice- was having nightmares of blowing it on the arête and my ropes slicing onto the overhang...thanks for all the suggestions!
 Pekkie 13 Nov 2013
In reply to Alun:
>
> 'I agree! I backed off at a time where I was supposed to be "solid" at E3. I just couldn't do the move through the overhang. Nice to be humbled every now and again!'

The move over the overhang on crystals was one place where Pex-trained fingers really helped. In fact, not long after doing SA I failed on the Pincushion crux, did the SA crux and moved over to finish up Pincushion. You can also go direct - Silly Billy. Great slab.


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