UKC

I seem to be dogging a lot of climbs lately, partly down to some really worn tendons and partly down to climbing with people who are much better than me.

I'm just wondering what other people consider to be after practic/worked and what is dogged (yes I know it's falling off/resting on the climb).

If I come off a climb near the start I'll invariably lower off and start again, but I still log it as dogged because I fell off, but should this be logged as with practice as I may have several goes at an early move before I get up it? And if it is dogged...should I be logging the number of times I've dogged it before finally getting it clean and then log that as after practice? If my slip is further up the climb I'll usually just get back on and have another go from where I came off.

Just interested in other peoples logging ethics

In reply to valentinesbabe: Generally, if I try a route a number of times an get it clean on my final attempt (no falls, no rests), I'll log it as clean/after practice.

If I don't complete a route clean, but still get to the top, I'll log it as dogged.

I normally only log one attempt of a climb in any day, if I dog it on Monday and get it clean on Tuesday, I'll log it as dogged on Monday and clean on Tuesday.

In reply to valentinesbabe:


For me, practice / worked is anything goes, top roping, dogging, usually not on lead, but it can be. Dogging is hanging around at the point I rested / fell and continuing from there after a rest.


Agree, logging that as dogged is being harsh on yourself. If you do lower, pulling the rope through is slightly better style, in that case I would log it as clean after practice. If its trad and really 'important', you could even get someone to retrieve the gear for you, but I can never be arsed with that.


There's no rules really, you're logbook is for you, so decide what you like to read about and write that. For me, if its a significant lead but not onsight, I might put the number of goes as a remark if they're all from a single visit. If not, I tend to log every attempt individually, and I write beta in the remarks so I know what to do next time. In fact even if I onsight it, I often write beta if its tricky.


Now that's what I call dogging. Said the actress to the bishop.

In reply to valentinesbabe:

To me 'dogging' would be multiple falls/rests at different points on the route leading to 'covering the ground'.
Leading the route with a fall but lowering, having pulled the ropes, is fine by me.
Leading with a fall but getting back on straight away again would be 'led with a fall' and definitely a bit better than leading with a rest but both 'fails'.
Leading clean after top roped, seconded or dogged ascents would be 'led after practice'.
But that's just me.

In reply to valentinesbabe:

For me, dogged is if I fall / rest and then continue from the rest point. "Clean after practice" would be after dogging a climb during practice and then leading clean, or after flashing it on a toprope and then leading it clean. If I'd been practicing / dogging a route on a day I didn't eventually lead it clean, I'd log that as dogged for that day and log it as a clean lead after practice on the day I get it clean. If I lower off leaving gear in place and have another go (something I've only done once or twice) I'd log it as clean after practice and note that the clean lead was on pre-placed gear.

In reply to valentinesbabe:

I'd have more dogs than the local pound if i put everything in my logbook :p

In reply to valentinesbabe:

'Worked' is having been on the route before and 'failed' you subsequently climb from bottom to top, on lead without rests. What you do about pre-clipped/pre-placed gear is up to you to decide and or declare. AKA Redpoint.

'Dogged' is getting up it on lead with rope rests.

I tend to just log stuff as 'climbed' whether onsight or in a 'lesser' style unless there was a definite redpoint process involved. Bouldering hard starts and low slips I don't worry about.

It's your log, fill it in as you please.
jk

In reply to teflonpete:
Ah...now that raises another question then as if I dogged it one day and then led it clean the next I'd log it as clean repeat.

In reply to valentinesbabe:

I'd call a clean repeat a clean repeat of something I'd led clean before, not something I'd dogged but not got up clean before.

In reply to valentinesbabe:

Hey Ange, your logbook is starting to look greyer than my hair

My logbook was fine until I started hanging around with the Newark bunch.

Bottom line is that you're prepared to have a go at harder stuff (and push yourself). It would be very easy just to pick easy stuff and onsight everything (but where's the fun in that). Also trying harder stuff has got to make you a better climber (hasn't it ?)
Now can anybody tell me where to find LU

IF YOU AIN'T FLYING YOU AIN'T TRYING

PS Ben and I are coming up last weekend in Nov (subject of course to weather) for 3 days if you guys are about ? We might even do some bouldering (all beenied up yeh)

In reply to valentinesbabe:


Erm, those aren't the reasons, it's surely because the routes you're trying are too hard for you in your current condition, nothing more

I know how you feel though, my logbook is mostly "salt with the occasional pepper"!

In reply to valentinesbabe:

Certainly wouldn't beat yourself up about the dogs and dnfs on your logbooks, those are tough routes.

In reply to teflonpete:

And even more so for a girl

In reply to valentinesbabe:


I always try not to make too much noise and try and flush before it gets too smelly - especially in the unisex bogs by the cafe at Outside

In reply to valentinesbabe: you don't sound like you are dogging to me. Dogging is resting on the rope en route or getting aid or assistance from a very tight rope. If your tendons are playing up climb easier more often or warm up more effectively.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Not exactly sure of what the significance of this comment, nor why you decided to make it?

In reply to andrewmcleod: Don't worry yourself about it, I was just being silly

In reply to Offwidth:
Yes I know I should, but I'm hampered by the weather in this country or I'd be out every day given half a chance . I also have the unfortunate circumstance that I climb with young fit chaps who forget I'm an old bird and I hate to not give absolutely everything I've got when I'm climbing and hate giving up on routes that I know I should be able to do if my hands would hold on ...paying the penalty this week though

In reply to valentinesbabe:
I also have the unfortunate circumstance that I climb with young fit chaps (very sweet of you to say so Ange ..... who forget I'm an old bird (oldish)... and I hate to not give absolutely everything I've got when I'm climbing (you need to take a leaf out of my book and be less competitive ) and hate giving up on routes that I know I should be able to do if my hands would hold on (weak girly arms ...paying the penalty this week though (that's because you've climbed to intensively (too hard, too many days on the trot (3 was it ?) you should know better.

In reply to Ciderslider: And indoors is far more intense (which is really gonna aggravate injury or niggles)

In reply to valentinesbabe: If you want to keep climbing for years to come you probably need to take it more easy. Warming up is essential... bouldering or easy solos will do if you pals want to be on harder routes.

In reply to Ciderslider:

..depends what you do indoors really. Even if there are too few easy routes/problems you can do laps or rainbow.

In reply to valentinesbabe:
Ello Ange

If you pull the ropes and start again from the ground its a clean lead if you get it clean next go, if you don't its dogged.

However some people would let you keep the ropes where they were and count it as a clean lead (if you start again from the ground) as long as the first time you went up placed the gear and then down climbed (or jumped off) without weighting the rope. This seems a bit contrived to me.

Personally I rarely log dogged routes, it happens so rarely I can remember them anyway as its a grudge match. Mostly I just log 'lead' but most of mine are on sight and those which aren't (because I previously seconded them or dogged them) I don't differentiate. To me the most important thing is I did clean lead them (eventually!) Each to their own though!

In reply to CurlyStevo: I still like to get onsights, but ......... you've got to push yourself sometimes in order to progress. I was until early this year saving loads of stuff that I wanted to onsight, but then I thought f@ck it I might never climb them, and stopped being so precious about it.
I don't just jump on stuff if I think I can't do it, but now I give stuff a go (and having done so am getting far more experience)
But as you say Stevo each to his or her own - that's the great thing about climbing