UKC

Anyone got any good suggestions for getting someone out leading their first winter routes this year? I know there's plenty good grade I and II routes out there, but not all are "good" for leading. Looking for easy, short routes with good/easily accessible protection. I guess the general seriousness of the situation would be best kept as low as possible too!! (i.e. as safe(as possible) run-outs with minimum "massive void beneath my feet" feeling as opposed to something technically easy but near the top of the Ben for example).

Location flexible, generally Lochaber or Argyll area, but likely further afield during the winter as well so any suggestions welcome!

Cheers,
Gordon

In reply to peebles boy:

I like Dorsal Arete and NC Gully on Stob Coire nan Lochain for lead coaching, as belays are good, protection available and both routes are normally pretty straightforward, especially if you bypass the fin on Dorsal.

In reply to Jamie B:

No idea why I didn't think of Dorsal!!!!
NC - always found gear to be a bit "sparse" in places.... Think I'd likely be soloing alongside though, so I guess would be able to point things out.

Cheers!

In reply to peebles boy: NC was my first - the sparse gear gave a decent idea of what winter climbing is about! Nice route I thought.

In reply to peebles boy: Shouldn't somebody learning to lead in winter be encouraged to get used to the fact that basically they're soloing, that poor or no gear is the norm and therefore climb something sufficiently easy that its not a problem?

In reply to Jamie B:


So, Jamie, what's this about gear on NC? Do tell. I've never spotted any

In reply to Tim Chappell:

It's not abundant (it's a gully), but there is just about enough if you look.

In reply to pec:

+ 1 i guess, especially regarding grade I. for grade II, being comfortable moving on the grade I terrain that is likely to form much of the route without protection is important, but i'd certainly like some gear at the hard bits...

dorsal arete does come to mind

dinnertime buttress

pinnacle ridge in the lakes would be the perfect choice i'd reckon

but for the last two watch out for avalanche prone slopes after the route,

cheers
gregor

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs: Fiachaill Ridge, Cairngorms? Blocky, a succession of move from ledges, plenty of gear if you feel you need it. Easily escapable on the right.

In reply to cannichoutdoors:

only done it in summer, but yes, would be another good option

in wales, bristly ridge would be a good choice too

In reply to Jamie B:

I looked! And found bugger-all.

Should I be looking L or R?