UKC

In the USA so just doing this now so people can start posting...

Will add the stats later in the day.. just back from a race and want to shower.. eat..

Good week for me.. big race next weekend..

m: 19.4 miles 7:00 pace.. last long run
t: am: 7 miles 6:40 pace. pm: 10k with 3 x 2 k reps at half marathon pace
w: am: 12.5 miles 6:12 pace. pm: 2 k then stretch and rolled
t: 8.5 miles 8:00 pace recovery
f: 10 miles 6:50 pace
s: flew to USA 4.5 miles 7:30 pace
s: Philly half.. 1:13:36.. new Pb by 90 seconds.. very shocked on a not flat course.. some big hills in the second half.. didn't wear my GPS watch and just ran off heart..

In reply to IainRUK:

What a week, Iain, and that's a great new PB for you - well done!

In reply to IainRUK:

Nice one Iain - even from my zero knowledge standpoint on all things cardio-vascular I know that's an impressive result!

Slightly lacklustre start to my week, didn't really do anything.

Thursday - Brean. Nice and sunny to start, clouded over and got a bit colder later on. Warmed up, then got on storm warning. Had a bit of a play on the variation (nominally 8a but with some notable dissenters who think its 7c+), decided to try for the easier original version (nominally 7c+ but with some notable dissenters who think its 7c) first. Helps get the start and end wired for the variation anyway. Couple of working goes on this, got the sequence relatively sorted. First redpoint, got through the start, got to the rest, found the best bit of rest and milked it for all it was worth, got into the headwall and fell off. Tweaked sequence slightly. Had a flash go on clashing socks (7b), fell off the lower bit as was climbing too slow and had to divert from the supplied beta, and fell off once on the top bit because I hit the wrong bit of a hold. Then had another burn on storm warning, it had got colder though and my tips went a bit numb, couldn't rethaw them at the rest so fell off in about the same place as before.

Friday - Huntsham. Muggy and still. Tops of boulders soaked still from whenever the last wet was. Did a few easy things up to the topouts (down climbed) and a traverse. Nothing hard. Fingers ached a bit though through over gripping in the terrible conditions.

Saturday - Brean. Cold. Given the tips issue from last time I didn't even consider trying redpoints on storm warning. Dogged a 7a to try and get warm, then dogged El Chocco (7b-c depending on who you believe) but didn't get on with it so pulled past and stripped it. Linked the 7a. Had a burn on tide rising.

Sunday - TCA. Middling session. Took ages to get a techy heel to work on a problem, got it in the end. Didn't really feel on the pace, should be doing a lot more of that circuit a lot faster.

Good progress on storm warning. With the better beta combined with the way I was feeling on the first go its got potential. Be nice to know what grade it really is mind you.

Hoping that if the weather forecast stays as it currently is there might be a few crisp sunny days midweek that might give me an opportunity to get back down to Brean. More progress on that pyramid fill would be good, and I'm enjoying the Chulilla headwall a lot more than I have in the past.

In reply to IainRUK:

Awesome on the PB Iain!

M - Yoga
T - Rest
W - Swimming (another sprint set, 2.0km)
T - Climbing at Brean. 6b+ warm-up then got back on Tide Rising (7b+). 5 Lead goes, of which 2 were serious redpoint attempts.
F - Core
S - Running! 6km at 5:00/km
S - Core

I felt pretty worn down at the start of the week - hard training coincided with long days at the office/lab the previous week - so I started pretty slowly. I feel more energetic now but not completely recovered, so I expect to take next week kinda easy too.

That said, Thursday's session at Brean was good, I feel like I made genuine progress on Tide Rising. I got the sequence down and the second redpoint attempt was really close: I came off with my fingers on the decent post-crux hold. If I hadn't been up and down 4 times prior to that I think it would have gone. Given that, it should go next session, subject to a feeling reasonably well rested on a good weather day that coincides with a day that I can skive off work. Unfortunately I ripped a hole in one of my fingertips ("why does this hold feel so greasy? Oh, probably all that blood...") and left the rest in various states of shredded.

I also went for a short run this week, first time since 19th August. The achilles hadn't bothered me for a good two weeks, so it seemed like time to have a go. It was a bit sore yesterday evening after running, but better this morning. Hopefully that's the kind of sore that indicates positive strengthening, rather than damage. I'll try again next week, maybe taking it even easier (i.e. similar distance, similar pace, no hill) and take it from there.

Short-term goals (November)
Indoor: 30 routes in a session (at least 20 at 6a or above).
Trad: One of the multipitch Cheddar E3s (Crow, Heaven and Earth Show, Ahimsa, Brainbiter).

Medium-term goals (2013)
Sport: 7a flash. Tick: onsight Raw Deal
Sport: 7b+ pyramid. So far 7/8@7a, 2/4@7a+, 1/2@7b, 0/1@7b+
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some!
Incidental: get a car. Done

In reply to IainRUK: Cheers Iain, and that's an incredible pace to be running at!

Good week for me, fairly pleased. I'm starting to phase in some endurance work now in the run up to the open youth comps coming up, and I've become even more unfit than I thought!

Mon - MCC routes. Warmed up then flashed 6c, 7a+, 7b and 7a. Had a couple of laps on the 7a to finish. Pleased to top routes despite ridiculous pump, psyched cause I know I'm going to be in great form if I can maintain this strength when I'm fit again!
Tue - rest
Wed - Stockport AW bouldering, met some of the fit club crowd. Unfortunately I forgot my shorts so had to climb in jeans still, managed to flash a few of the V6s and almost all of the V5s.
Thurs - rest
Fri - MCC bouldering comp, went really well. Flashed everything up to and including the V6s, as well as a couple of the harder ones. I took my time, got all the beta for the sequencey problems, and flashed a lot of the techy problems that stronger people were slipping off. Ended up finishing 3rd in an Adult category of about 30-40 so I'm dead chuffed. I was pleased with the leading comp last week as well but there wasn't much competition, so doing well against a much larger field feels like more of an achievement.
Sat - Sport at Stoney. Warmed up onsighting a 6b and a 6c. Had an onsight attempt at King of the Ming, 7b+, but got wrong handed at the crux. Flashed the top section, then came down for a rest and got it pretty steadily on the first red point. Quite pleased because I felt a massive improvement on the RP. It's a good route for any of you Fit Clubbers at the grade - hard to onsight, easy to RP

Cheers, Jake

In reply to IainRUK:

Awesome Iain. 73min half is amazing. Well done.

M- Missed the club long run so went out strava bombing a few of my friends segments. Legs were still feeling tired from the XC.
T- Rest
W- Nothing
T- Track session. (500 rest 700 rest) x 5. Got progressively quicker as the session went on. Last rep was the quickest by some margin.
F- Quick indoor boulder session ( trying to get value for money on my pass - Not really using it at the mo! )
S- Park run. 18:57. First time under 19 this year. 57 seconds to go to get it back under 18. My legs were tired from Thursday's session and I wanted to bail half way through. Stuck with it and it paid off.
S- 10K on the track 39:30.

All my running at the moment is without a watch and I'm finding it increasingly frustrating with regards to pacing myself. I'm going to buy the new Garmin 220 when it hits the shelves on Jan 1st so will just be counting this all as fitness at the moment.

That said, the Garmin 610 is now only 199.99 with a HRM which is an absolute bargain considering it's price from 6months ago.

In reply to IainRUK:

Need to get yourself on the Stratford Half Iain. Friends ran it on the weekend and said it was flatter than a pancake. They all smashed their PB's by 2 mins!!

In reply to JimmyKay:

Sub 19 for a 5k is good going too Jimmy. I am sure you'll get it to under 18.

In reply to mbh:

Thanks! I got it down to 18:30 last year. Feeling more capable this year. Just need to keep the training up.

In reply to JimmyKay:

ps "Strava bombing". Is that the modern, post loss of innocence, equivalent of ginger knocking? The way it sounds, it should be just as much fun. I have tried it, but have mostly not done very well. I am usually too tired by the time I get to the bit where I should speed up.

In reply to mbh:

Haha!! It's exactly that. Generally we have chosen some hilly segments which we can do hill reps on rather than just racing to pip people to the post. Every now and then you get someone who wins the segment on a 10miler and you remember how pathetic you actually are!

In reply to IainRUK:

Cheers Iain.

To take 30 secs off at your level is HUGE. I guess your body was right telling you it needed a rest. You've obviously come back stronger.

Not a bad week but not a good week. Maintenance rather than improvement.

I lost thurs - sat due to a 7hr tattooing session leaving me a bit tender.

3 flat runs up to an hr. No idea of distance just jogging along.

Went to malham and enjoyed it :-o

Despite only having my bendy wall shoes with holes in the toes I got on chiselling the dragon and found it do able. Wet holds at the bottom but could climb to the crux anyway. Crux is a baffler but I have new beta now. Top half just needs refining. Timing and accuracy. I started not being able to do the moves but could nearly link them all by the end.

So in my book that makes it a potential project and one that doesn't feel too far away. But we'll see. Malham 7c is the target for this winter.

Was hoping for malham tomorrow but it's supposed to be gopping so it's a mammoth day long wall session. Maybe tues for malham if weather allows.

Other than that I need to get to boulder uk and get some oomph for CTD crux.

In reply to biscuit:
And I went to AW Stockport too. Not a bad session considering it was the day after malham. Doubles in the region of 7a to 7b (failing on all of them) and an attempt on the 7b from last time. Need to go at it fresh not after a couple of sets of doubles. Too tired. Git closer than ever on the crux though. Soooo close. Had it but just couldn't hold it.

In reply to IainRUK:

Nice Iain.

M - 40 mins run. Fingerboard session.
T- Lots of press ups.
W - Resting.
Th - Redpoint attempts on project. Pulled off crucial hold.
F - Tried to stick hold back on. Failed. Tried to work out new sequence. Failed. Bugger.
S - 40 mins run.
S - Endurance laps; curtailed by massive thunderstorm. Bugger again.

In reply to IainRUK:

Well done Iain, that's immense.

Goal: settle on a winter Malham project

Mon: routes indoors, ticked off the hard 7b (think it's definitely worth 7b+) and did more doubling up on routes as well as a quick play on a 7c.

Wed: routes indoors, got on the 7c on top rope as I have no idea where to clip from for all but 2 of the clips but can climb it from the floor to the last bolt on top rope. Really worthwhile as it's really crimpy and hard as nails. Had better attempts at some of the mammut wall routes I'd written off as awkward (when I was having a bad night and threw my toys out of the pram). Helpful beta from the 2nd best climber in the village opened up the 7a+ and the 7b is all there, just need to go at it when fresh.

Sun: Malham. Everything wet, even consenting had it's rare wet streak. Got on the top half of raindogs for the first time since Jan. Felt weaker on the throw over move after the 2nd bolt, tried the Steve McClure method (from the marmot video) for the bit around the last bolt which worked but adds in a few more moves. Tried another method when tired which is fewer moves so still unsure what to do. Power faded REALLY quickly though, was at the crag around 10:15 and back in the car by 2:40pm. Hilarious.

In reply to Eagle River:

Yoga thursday! always forget to mention that....

In reply to IainRUK:

Seriously impressive half Iain! We remain unworthy.

Square brackets = rolling 7 day total.

M: [33.6] 7.5 miles road 7:05 m/m
T: [38] 6 miles road, 3 miles road
W: [33.1] -
T: [33.1] 6 miles road
F: [37.9] 4.8 miles road
S: [38.4] 11.1 miles with 5 x .9 muddy intervals at 7:05ish
S: [50] 11.6 very slow and tired. Possibly more harm than good?

In reply to Eagle River:

Pass that 7a+ beta on ! I finally got onto the vertical panels this time but fell off where you guys have been.

In reply to IainRUK: Happy with the half.. amazing how much not wearing the GPS helped.. I just ran as had as I could..

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motiva UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or with tional tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (347) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=568773&v=1#x7562836

Jimmy Kay: Well done, pb for 5k? And 2 races in a day good going..
Joughton: Solid week and well done at the comp, did you manage to get out more this week? Life does get in the way at times..
Ex-Engineer: Welcome back.. gear get much use this week?
AJM: Well done on Low Blow.. will you add a new STG?
Nick Russel: Good solid week.. 25 routes in a session very good going..get to 30?
AndrewW: steady week, see much progress this week?
Leon: did you make your STG this week? hows the motivation?
mbh: Better week... life stress running stress do catch up.. running can help but at some point they both just wear you down..
Tyler: well done for staying active in a busy week, getting structure must be hard with work hours and travel..
Mark Torrance: Hows the arse? Pretty common to get them but they do tend to improve quick..
Exile: Solid week on the climbing, Was the weather more cooperative? Colds due soon isn't it?
Grubes: Looked a good end to the week? Did you get Flying Arete.. loved the video.. top marks for perseverence.. and your mates patience..
PPG: Seems a good week, despite the decorating getting in the way.. finished now?
Sankey: Nice ride.. when the weathers fine the peak is hard to beat.
Ally Smith: Good week, what did the consultant say about the ankle?
Mattrm: Hows that decorating coming along..Sounds hectic..
Dandan82: Good solid week, so shoulder OK? Nice one.. amazing how much DIY is going on at the mo...
Nomics4sale: Good trip, sounds like success.. whats next then? revised goals?
Biscuit: Sounds like progress anyway. hope the worst is past,. not followed what went on if you did talk about it, but good Luck.. I had a shit few years but now a more stable life and feeling the benefits.
Ali: Hope this week is better, sounds like a nice stress relieving finish to the week anyway.
Eagle river: Well done on the bouldering, bad luck on the 7b..
Maria 85: Sounds like a great trip to Morroco.. well done on the E1 & E2's..
Stevemarkparry: Nice bouldering, do you reckon you'll get Churnet?
Garrouli: Did you get to the peak?
Luke Owens: Well done on the 7a, how did you work out body fat? Are you aiming to go lower or just out of interest? <5% is pretty low..

PS: Thanks to those who have kept this going.. It took more time than I realised.. not a huge amount but it's interesting reading through more specifically when you have to take notice. Its a great series of threads showing nice progressions.. training works..

In reply to IainRUK:

Cheers...!


Yeah, I reckon Storm Warning next, then probably the variation if I've got time.

And it'd be nice to get that V6/7 boulder tick in too if I can. Done some V5 sort of stuff before, and probably V6 on routes once or twice, but every problem I've done that's harder has been hard because its longer rather than necessarily because the moves are harder.

In reply to IainRUK:
Thanks Iain. I am still trying to imagine running a half marathon at 5:37 pace.

M - 6.0 miles
T - youngest son's 18th birthday. Duties.
W - 5.4 miles
T - 5.6 miles
F - 6.8 miles - seriously lost in a new part of our really quite small town. Went in circles for a bit. Also copped abuse from two charming fellow residents of said town.
S - 10 miles, then 8 mile walk along the coast path, starting at Padstow, up to Stepper Point, round to Trevone and back. One of the best bits of the north Cornish coast, I think.
S - 13.4 miles then later another 4 miles, for the very shallow reason of wanting my weekly total to pass the 50 miles mark. I live next to a church. The Archbishop of Canterbury was just leaving as I got back. Fireworks, bigwigs, and sweaty me.

So, 51.4 miles, not much ascent, some of it in the 7:00 - 7:45 range, much of it in the dark. I am getting used to running in a small pool of light. I am pleased to have got this much done on top of work.

In reply to biscuit: Ok two questions...

What's the tattoo?! Go on, do tell...

You LIKE chiselling???? That's like saying you like crimping on razor blades! Crimp monster?!

In reply to Ali:

I really found it not that bad. It's very weird as I've never got on with malham. I like 30m steep routes. Good holds and lots of knee bars and rests. Not really malham.

Was my first time on rock in over a month and my skin was fine. Not that sharp I didn't think. I can get 2 knee scums on it that I reckon with a knee pad will be quite useful

I was more surprised that the footholds felt ok. It's not going to be easy but I came away thinking it was a good project. The crux may stop me though. Got a feeling I'm just not strong enough At the moment.

The tats are based on tibetan calligraphy. Big one on my back. A symbol surrounded by calligraphy. That took 4hrs. Then a round one on my shoulder and a vertical one down my side that is outline calligraphy if that makes sense. It was a long day.

In reply to IainRUK: Thanks Iain, and great work on the PB - really impressive time! Do you think not having the GPS made a difference or was it just good prep and a good day?

Been pretty psyched this week

M - nothing (worked late and sorted stuff out after weekend)
T - turned old Ran to work in new fastest time - 2 or 3rd time under 50mins! Ate cake...
W - nothing
T - routes at reach - lots of falling!! See below...
F - Worked late then had a short session at the biscuit factory - didn't get on many sloper problems (which was original aim) and was feeling mentally pretty knackered from work but had a fun session. Did a bit of core to finish
S - nothing - had hoped to head to wall for training session but stuck at work most of day
S - approx 50 min early morning run. Went flying and tore a hole in my new running tights. Sad Failed to get to wall again. 10 min core session - conclusion = core is weak...

Having known for a while that a lot of the time mental aspects of climbing hold me back more than physical, and having been inspired by the WCS talks, decided I need to tackle it head on. So have decided to focus what routes sessions I can fit in, not on climbing routes and training stamina, but on falling - at least until Christmas. Hoping that this will then start meaning I can push indoor sessions more physically and start to get to grips with pushing stuff outside.

Keeping a bit of a diary to track progress and had first session this week - really is baby steps, but some definite progress. Main thing I figured out - what came of something of a revelation to me, though I'm sure its obvious to everyone else - is that exhaling makes a huge difference! Basically to start with I was tense on all my falls - so even though I was making myself do them, they weren't really comfortable. Then remembered reading that you should breath out whilst falling and tried this - it forces your body to relax so the fall is much more comfortable. Amazing!!!

Needless to say I only got up to doing falls with waist juat above the clip on the friendly overhanging wall so nothing spectacular, but it's a start...

In reply to biscuit: Ouch! sounds painful!

Hmmm, I've only been on it once years ago to be fair but it did put me off - I like crimps but didn't like those holds! And the feet felt rubbish, though that may be because I'm not good at committing to poor footholds. Maybe I'll get back on it and give it another go

In reply to biscuit: I am awaiting my training plan after assessment last week, but expect a healthy dose of 4x4 or doubles to train aero-cap. Not many other people seem keen on this type of training - fancy hooking up?

I wouldn't know you from Adam, but if you're down at AJMs weekend party, I'll introduce myself then!

In reply to Ali:

That's not old !

30 is the new 20.

And you've not updated your age on your profile.

Just wait until you find yourself nudging 40 and getting tattoos in a desperate attempt to regain your youth and get over your marriage break up. Then you feel old

At least I'm aware I'm having a mid life crisis. I'm embracing it !

I really can't see why chiselling gets such bad press. Give it another go. Yes it's sidepully with poor feet to start but the top half is totally different and very dynamic.

In reply to Ally Smith:

I'm not there I'm afraid. That cider looks lethal !

Did I see the other week you're near AW stockport for work ?

Mondays and Wednesdays evenings often finds a few of us there to train - not to climb, train. It's not supposed to be fun eagle river tells me.

Come on down.

In reply to biscuit: Done - now I feel really old... I'm going back to pretending I'm 28 again!

I don't think I tried the top part - but I'm quite keen to give it a go now next time I'm up north

In reply to biscuit:

IF YOU GOT TO THE TOP IT WASN'T HARD ENOUGH!

In reply to Eagle River:

The route to success is failure !

In reply to Eagle River:

"Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better". — Samuel Beckett (keen redpointer - he wrote "the wasteland" after visiting horseshoe quarry).

In reply to IainRUK:


A joy to behold, or so I've been led to believe.

Painful(ish) when running slowly and sitting down. No problem at pace. There's a lesson in there somewhere.

In reply to IainRUK:

STG: Devise a structured training session for finger board and have six such sessions before my trip to Spain at the beginning of December.
MTG: For my (lack of) commitment to training and diet to not be such a source of mirth among my climbing buddies
LTG: To be the best climber in my village

M: Work put the kibosh on a trip to the wall, I think I managed a kettle bell core workout
T: Medium session at Stockport, even forced myself onto bouldering wall after routes partner went home.
W: Another medium routes session at Stockport where my lack of application was shown up by the industry of the UKC fit club posse in attendance. Shamed into a kettle bell core work out afterwards
T: 40 pullups before a mercy mission to a restaurant was needed
F: Drove to Kendal and ate late but managed not to drink in the bar.
S: Cashed in my Kendal Film Festival film pass in favour of the 10km race. Pleased with my effort on the day put disappointed to have let myself get into the sort of shape where finishing was the best outcome I could hope for.
S: Malham, sacked off L'obsession because of wetness at the start in favour of a quick tick. Got most of the moves on the 'quick tick' by the end of the day...... Managed a kettle bell workout in favour of eating a Magnum, good end to the week!

Diet: no room service jeapordy this week and I felt my Mcdonalds after the wall on Wednesday was deserved. Downhill after that as I ate myself to a standstill on Thur.
Weight: over 11 stone

In reply to Mark Torrance: A friend I run with has similar.. he only runs 5k a day at the moment.. he's ex german international.. so class, but does 5 k in 15 mins on a treadmill But he says when he runs slowly for longer his form goes and he gets the pain.. he's working on his psoas/piriformis.

In reply to IainRUK:

Ah. I wonder if its a core stability thing. I have on-going, minor, roving issues - piriformis, adujctor, gluteous medius (current favourite) - in varying legs. Definitely worse when I'm tired and, I guess, sloppy.

In reply to Mark Torrance:

I get low level pain in one buttock more or less all the time when I run. It hasn't got worse and so, possibly neglectfully, I haven't done anything about it.

I wonder if it may be to do with the way I habitually sit, as now, at the computer at home, perched on the edge of a hard wooden chair,twisted sideways, more on that buttock than the other. That, at least, I can change easily.

In reply to IainRUK:

Thanks Iain no flying arete.
Yeah house mate did spend a lot of time stood there but I did not film me stood around watching him fall off underhand a lot. Swings and round abouts etc

STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Winter Grit - 7A boulder
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big airFont - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
MTG (June 2014):
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april - Probably november now
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man

This week's goals:
Flying arete! - did not go to almscliff
Climb routes in or outdoors - Tick routes at rokt

M: rest
T: rest
W: Rokt. Top roping bit of bouldering, core
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Widdop poor session. Nothing of note done a little damp.
S: Tried to go to holmfirth but was wet went for a short walk and then went to the pub

Next week Goals:
Not another shit week.

Did not realise how bad my week was. must do better

In reply to IainRUK:

Thanks Iain, great result!

STG (Winter 2013): Try hard at the wall, V6 BUK, 7b RP.
MTG (Spring 2014): 7a onsight, 7b+ RP
LTG: Trad!

Mon: nowt
Tues: hill reps Whalley Nab
Weds: Stockport with team fitclub. Failure being the new success means I succeeded on everything!
Thurs: 9.5 mile trail run into Bowland from Tarnbrook, 600m ascent
Fri: 75km bike ride into London from Berkshire.
Sat: Stockport routes. Success again!
Sun: 11.9 mile trail and fell run round wolfhole crag from Tarnbrook.

Went to see Lucy Creamer at the Kendal Film Fest on Saturday eve. Really good. She has this theory that it takes 10 years or 10,000 hours to be good at climbing. Now I know why I'm so crap!

In reply to IainRUK: cheers Ian.. well done on PB

last wek for me,, very quick summary

4x bouldering sessions.. easy sessions because of wrist/arm/finger injury.. main issues in wrist rather than anywhere else now. being very careful, did two half our sessions easy contiunuous climbing witha steady pump, then two sessions for an hour each trying slightly harder moves to see how wrist coped.. not too bad.

2x weight training sessions inc pull ups.. no issues with pull ups and injury

4x core sessions (added onto weight and cardio sessions)

6x interval training on bike in gym... all really good work rate

4x running up and down ingleborough sessions.. running down hill feeling much better as using insoles i had made for me after a gait scan. did an extra hill climb on top opf ingleborough on thursday

3 decorating afternoons and a few hours of sorting things out in garages for climbing wall prep.. wood has arrived now so should strat building it this week hopefully. very excited

plan this week... to maybe do a session at kendal wall at the end of this week but to keep off harder routes

PPG

In reply to Nomics4sale: sounds like a good week .. and i like the failure means success thing... re lucy creamer ... so we should be peaking at about age 50 then? which is ok... got all our lives so what the fook does it matter? :oD

In reply to mbh: brief respo0nse for now... i sit on an exercise ball at work.. helps core and has reduced the amount of back and buttock tightness/soreness i get.

try a cricket ball or a tennis ball in your buttock ... to loosen up the muscle

In reply to pork pie girl:

yeah, exactly, 50 is about right for me too. She's just back from injury, she reckons she'll do a 9a at 50 (and only slightly tongue in cheek!).

In reply to IainRUK:

Cheers, didn't make it to 30 last week, in fact didn't even make it to the wall. Did have a good session at Brean though.

In reply to IainRUK: Cheers Iain, effort on the PB! Body fat was worked out using the Weight Management machine thing we have in work. You have to grip these two handles. It's probably not very accurate but I'm guessing it must be right give or take a couple of %? Not aiming for any specific body fat. I eat healthy and exercise loads, it just happens.

Monday:
15 Wide Grip, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)

Weighted Deadhangs -
Progressive Set:
2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs

Main Set:
4 x 10kg - 8 secs

10 Weighted (5kg) Pull Ups on Large Edge

Tuesday:
12 Wide Grip, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)

Offset Pull Ups 6 x 10

5 x 10 Leg Raises
1 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises

4 x 10 Shoulder Raises (12.5kg)
2 x 10 Bent Over Raises (10kg)

Wednesday:
12 Wide Grip, 10 Dips, 12 Dumbbell Press's (20kg), 12 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)

Rock Ring Pull Ups
L: 12 M: 12 S: 5
L: 12 M: 12 S: 5

Dumbell Bench Presses
1 x 10 (30kg)
3 x 10 (35kg)

Bentover Shoulder Flys
2 x 10 (12.5kg)

Thursday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups, 10 Dips, 15 sec L-Sit
3 x 10 Good Mornings (20kg)
3 x 10 Deadlifts (65kg)

Weighted Deadhangs
Progressive
2.5kg - 10sec, 5kg - 10sec, 7.5kg - 8sec

Main Set
2 x 10kg - 8sec

Evening -

Beastmaker:
35 Degree Slopers - 5 Sets
4sec, 4sec, 6sec, 7sec, 7sec

20mm Edge - 3 Finger Open-Hand - 3 Sets
8secs, 8secs, 8secs

Did some cut-looses with feet on chair as far back from the Beastmaker as possible then cut-loose and hold the swing on 30mm edges (About 5 reps)

20 Minutes Aero-Cap

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Caseg Boulder and Braichmelyn Boulder

Caseg - V0 x 2, V2, V4 - All Flashed
Tried the classic Caseg Groove (V5) but took a long time to make progress and wanted to check out Braichmelyn.

Braichmelyn - Flashed the two classics Braichmelyn Arete (V1) & The Ramp (V2)

Did the classic Central Wall (V5), mega sharp, crimpy and technical. Great problem, tick of the day!

Sunday: Rest

Good week, very psyched for my bouldering at the moment!

In reply to IainRUK:

Thanks for doing fit club Iain. Weather didn't play ball - hoping to climb outside Sunday afternoon but wet here. So...

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - maybe!

Autumn: HP Blow Out, (E6,) or start winter climbing - whichever opportunity allows first.

This winter - VI 7

Training:

M: Rest
T: pm - 1hr 45min PE traverses at wall.
W: pm - 45mins general weights
T: am - 1hr PE traverses at wall. pm - 1hr 45min night MTB ride
F: pm - 1hr fingury PE at wall
S: Rest
S: am - 1hr P/PE at wall, (working new traverse / route.) pm - 45min fell run

Not a bad week - felt tired so did a little less cardio than usual. KMF this weekend just gone hasn't helped ease this situation any though! Again, too wet and cold for head point project, not cold enough for winter yet, see if the forecast cold weather comes to anything.

In reply to IainRUK:

Great effort on PB

In reply to pork pie girl:

Sorry about the late reply re Red Wall - were you planning to get on it this weekend or was it simply a general enquiry?

In reply to biscuit: if you like 30m steeper routes with some rests... get on teh left hand side at malham when it dry enough... space race and tremelo have knee bar rests... mescalito has a couple of opportunities for quick shakeouts and then a rest on a mini ledge 9on slopers but they do become more restful the fitter you get.. i rested there for 15 mins when i red pointed it.. the pump strats to reduce after about 8 shake outs on each arm., could get about 70 % back before doing the head wall to the lower off) new dawn has a rest after the crux start and then another before the steep bulge... baboo baboo the same. malham maybe the place you kick backside! (sorry i went off on one there about malham.. sarah's started telling me to shut up.. no one else will listen!!)

In reply to Exile: general enquiry as fancied it for training .. traverses and possibly laps on TR.

In reply to Nomics4sale: she loves pain...and doesn't shy away from hard training.. i think she'll get 9a.

In reply to IainRUK:

Thanks for putting together the stats - interesting to see how different people pull out different highlights/style to write up.


Well, the MRI scan showed that the tendons coming from pereneal longus/brevus are swollen; but i'm not getting pain there!

Cue confused looks from registrar and comprimise that i'm booked in for an ultrasound scan before they get trigger happy and chop me open - something i'm massively against unless absolutely necessary.

Otherwise, a nice busy week with a good collection of morning after DOMS

M - Rest
T - Assessment with Tom; 55 moves max effort on lattice board; still 5 short of the benchmark 7c+ OS level, which neatly explains the nearly-but-not-quite OS efforts in RRG. An-cap is fairly abissmal; plateuxed at 11moves, i.e. <20% (this might make sense to a select few (AJM?) of you in fit-club)
W - Signed up for short term gym membership; rowing, offset pull-ups, bench-press, etc. Stretching in the sauna got me some funny looks
T - More gym including flys and cossack squats - ouchie ouch DOMS in funny places the next day. Rowed 2k in 7min 33s
F - More gym - cardio/sauna/stretch only
S - Roaches bouldering - bit too damp to do anything really hard. Did some easy stuff on lower teir, then went up to Doxley's pool - quagmire! Tried "Another Nadin traverse" 7C and got all the moves bar one and some significant links - sloper tastic.
S - Llandegla, went big; lap of the old black (13miles?) in 58min. Didn't get overtaken once - BOOSH!
Then Tremeirchion - 36 Chambers. Got two moves higher than before; still two more hard moves to do? Then tried 22 Chambers (also 7C) and made solid progress from what felt like a hideously hard couple of moves before. Keen for re-match on both of these when fresh.

In reply to pork pie girl:

The traverse is almost perma dry, but pretty polished. TRing gets you above this, (obviously,) but the routes can suffer a little from seepage after prelonged heavy rain. Having said that I've lost count of the number of times I've gone there thinking we were going through the motions before going to the climbing wall, but found the crag dry and had a great training session.

In reply to biscuit: you don't have no take mondays do you with penalty slack for even saying 'take'?? sarah tried that with me at the uni (after i suggested it) and i ended up being quite verbally abusive...i had to buy her a diet coke and bag of haribo star mix to make it up to her.

In reply to Eagle River: definitely agree with that

In reply to Exile: cheers .. might have a look once the wrist feels ok.

In reply to Ally Smith:


Well, I understand all the words and I get the concept of the drill (although things like rest intervals I wouldn't know, but that's incidental), but I'm not sure what a good AnCap level is considered to be - 30%, 50%, more...? Might be something I'll think about doing on my return, be interesting to get a different idea of my strengths/weaknesses. Especially if I end up further from real rock and so have more opportunity/requirement for structured indoor training.


That ought to come down pretty quick as you get into it I'd have thought.


That really does look perversely slopey.

In reply to pork pie girl:

There isn't a "no take" rule, just a knowing roll of the eyes when you return to the floor.

In reply to IainRUK:

Iain - nice one on the PB!
Ali - happy birthday & well done on all the falling
Nomics - '10 years or 10,000 hours to be good at climbing' - in theory I should be crushing 8a now then...

I had possibly the worst week since starting FC, I'll blame it on serious post-holiday blues but I know I was just very lazy really and feeling sorry for myself. Grand total of 1 1/2 bike commutes all week. This week will be better... here's some goals just to force me...

2 x wall (1 bouldering, 1 4x4s)
3 x runs
3 x bike commutes
2 x core sessions
1 x do something fun at the weekend despite family commitments
1 x eat lots of birthday cake!

In reply to AJM:

Fixed 1:1 work/rest ratio - not quite puke inducing, but close

but I'm not sure what a good AnCap level is considered to be - 30%, 50%, more...?

Tom says it should be between 20 and 30%, no higher, no lower. I'm yet to get to the bottom of this, but think that a higher an-cap would limit your aero-power

In reply to Ally Smith:

I remember someone (Alex most likely) saying that if you did too much AnCap without the supporting aeropower the pumps would be crucifying because peak lactate production would totally outweigh your ability to deal with it. Or words to that vague half-remembered effect anyway.

I guess higher aeropower should lead to a higher headline moves score which is why there's a range rather than it being open ended...

In reply to maria85:


Now that's my sort of training

New to this so here goes. Let me know if I'm missing something?

Current best

Winter lead: IV 5 (solid on IV ish)
Trad lead: E3 5c (once, normally dog E1s)
Sport lead: 6b (again once 6a+ normal)
Bouldering: font 6a (if its not too steep)
Alpine: AD+ (once, but quite a few ADs)

Weaknesses: climb to slowly so pump out/ too weak, sometime lacking in balls, but not on slabs!


STG: 25 e points this year by 1st jan (currently about 20)
MTG: solid leading winter grade v in time for mountaineering exped this summer
LTG: solid leading E1/2 onsight nationwide. Lead 1 E4 onsight (probably on grit), Solid on alpine D, Solid on big Winter gullets/ faces VI 5 etc.)

Target routes: loads but e.g. Point 5, Orion Face, anything big on meggy! Time for tea, Left wall, The brush off, Jetrunner, Great slab, Long Johns slab.

I work in rope access so work random places, times and jobs. Fairly active base level as a result but no chance of routine

M: nout
T: indoors at boulder central. Climbed 30 problems up to V4, (5 at each grade from VB) tried a few V5's but failed miserably
W: played badminton for 90mins, tiring
T: nout
F: snuck out on the way back from work to Baldstones. Lead Baldstones arête HVS, seconded The E2 next to it and bouldered 6 problems up to F6A
S: quick lap of sherwood pines before eating far too much at a wedding
S: Went to Charnwood Quarry hungover! Lead 2 HVS, one easy, one absolutely terrifying. (That said desperate to return for a big E2 that looked ace, need to bring skyhooks!)

Cheers

Rob

In reply to IainRUK:
Thank you Ian, shoulder is really good, I slipped off a foothold this week and caught it fully on my left arm, it felt completely solid which I was very pleased about. Slightly more concerned about my weird RSI-type forearm pain but i've managed to wangle a new style mouse at work and maybe a new chair too so hopefully that will go away oon.

M: Chest; Bench, incline flys, dips, tricep pulldown.
Core; L hangs, knee raises (with twists)
T: Cardio; Rower 2km 8.37 (pb), bike 13.3km 30 mins
W: Climb; 6a,6a+,6b,6b+,6c,6c,6b+,6c,6c
T: Shoulder; smith press, upright row, front dumbell raise, 1 arm cable front raise, seated lateral raise, standing cable reverse fly.
F,S,S: Killer toothache meant I skipped climbing, however I did get the splashbacks siliconed, extractor hood hole drilled and dining room walls undercoated, that's sort of like a workout.

In reply to Ali: happy birthday and keep is posted on your fall practise.. It's all good stuff

In reply to IainRUK:

Wow. That PB is impressive. Scary fast.

Thanks for doing fit club.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st

M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Core
F - Core
S - Core
S - Rest

Got quite a lot done DIY wise. Painted the hallway again. Finished the wood flooring in the middle room. So it ended up being 3 core work outs. Diet went ok, no real change.

In reply to IainRUK: Cheers for the stats Iain.

Managed a day out at Malham, squeezed in between the wet streaks. Did consenting clean on a top rope, took three goes, a bit reluctant to lead due to the legendary third clip, but might have a go if I start regularly using it as a warm up (slightly odd to say warm up for something one grade below my maximum RP). Then had a couple of goes on Free and even easier. Decent wall sessions too, so a good week.

M: Matrix: new problems, flashed a few 6b's
T:
W: Matrix: getting stuck into stuff around 6c
T:
F:
S: Malham: Consenting Clean TR, working Free and...
S:

STG: More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)

MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working

LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession

In reply to Sankey:


The third clip is fine on redpoint - clip from the good holds on top of the blob and make sure your belayer is paying attention (mostly because if you did blow it you'd probably kick them in the head on the way past).

In reply to Pagan: I have take the fall going for the beach ball three times on lead. I did not hit the ground on any occassion but I was very close and I did lift my feet up.
Did not help having 3 stone on my belayer

In reply to grubes:

You're not that much heavier than me fella!

In reply to grubes:

The one time I fell fRom there Itw*tted my ankle on the swing in and spent several hours hobbling about. Never felt inspired to go back really. Taking the space is far nicer when it's dry, big holds, hands off kneebar in the middle.....

In reply to AJM: doubt I am any where near climbing 7b at the moment
I have not sport climbed in ages.

In reply to Sankey: extent the third bolt with a sling. perosnally i wouldn't lead it without .. but that's my personal choice

the route is a good warm up once you know it well and i thought i'd never say that as i hated it for ages but made myself get on it as a warm up every time i climbed at malham this season.i htinik it's worth getting used to another one (at least) as a warm up for busy times

In reply to IainRUK:
STG: 4 training sessions a week.
MTG (WE 1/12): 5 training sessions in a week.
LTG(2014): Loads of classic routes (HVS to e3) and visit new crags.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Mon: Leading @ Stockport.
Tue: Nothing.
Wed: Arc. Repeaters.
Thu: Nothing.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Arc. Repeaters.
Sun: Nothing.

Made the STG, seeing improvements. Motivation is still low, feels like it's going to be a long winter.......

4 sessions next week, 3 climbing 1 core or weights.

In reply to IainRUK: Unfortunately I've been ill since Sunday. Slightly better now, hence the delayed post.

M - 4-mile walk
T - rest
W - Bouldering @ TCA
T - Bouldering @ Redpoint (then BMC SW Area Meeting)
F - rest
S - Bouldering Comp @ TCA (flashed 12/20, failed to work any of the remainder)
S - started feeling ill...

In reply to IainRUK: I have a confession to make.... I can only do plank for 30 secs - that is truly TERRIBLE core! :-S

Hi all, I missed last week cos I was on my holibobs in France

Climbed in Monaco, Nice, Tulon, Marseille and the Verdon Gorge. Great weather on all but two days, did some cracking multipitch routes.
Feel like I made a big improvement on steep limestone - 6a definitely becoming steady rather than intermittent and wobbly. Highlight was probably 'Saut d'homme' on the last day - my 6a pitch was probably the hardest thing I've ever led

Definitely plan to go back there again - I think if I can get to steady 6a+ it'd be worth going just to the gorge for a whole week.

In reply to IainRUK:

Thanks!

Certainly getting close. Wrote a quick blog about it here >
http://www.getsomealtitude.com/ousal-low-7b-lower-churnet/

Goals:

Maintain 142 lbs: ~142.5 lbs

STG:
Current Focus: Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet.

MTG (early 2014):
Be competent at Scottish III by end of 2013/14 season
Get out to the Alps

VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life


This Week:

M:

T:

W:

T:

F:

S:
Bouldering at Churnet:
10 min warmup
10 min stretching
20 min warmup climbing up to V2
60 min working Ousal Low 7A+/B (completed all moves and sequences in isolation but not enough left for full burn)
10 min cool down

S:

In reply to Ali: We used to have core competitions after every climbing session... I think it started getting to silly levels of 10 minutes or something.... ouch!! It's pretty easy to build up time if you do it regularly.

(I can only do a minute max at the moment though, need to work on that...)

In reply to maria85: wow thats good.. when I do them a lot I can make 90-120 seconds.. you do improve at them quite fast initially.. just 3 x 30 seconds after a run 3 days a week and I'll soon be doing longer.

My physio taught me another version.. basically its kneeling down, knees on the ground, legs at 90 deg.. toes on the ground, then straight back parallel to the ground, then elbows down.. hold your muscles, then go up on you toes and elbows.. so you hold your body at the 90 deg.. trying to find a picture on google images.

In reply to maria85:

10 minutes is absurd! I have a little routine of 2:30 at a time, but alternating 30s front, 30s left, 30s front, 30s right, 30s front. By front, I mean both elbows down, left and right are where you go up onto one elbow/forearm facing to the side. I think it's easier than just doing 2:30 straight!

In reply to IainRUK & Nick Russell:
I know, it was seriously painful! Couldn't get close to that any more. I don't think it ever actually helped my climbing though... kind of like being able to do 100 pull ups (which seems completely unfeasible to me, I know there's those who think it's a warm up!), there's a limit to how much translates to actual benefits.

In reply to IainRUK: I know someone who manages almost 40 minutes for a plank - it's just plain madness and I'm pretty sure it's boredom that's stopping him going longer. Last year, I was three and a half minutes as the norm but haven't done them much at all this year.

It's a strange exercise.

In reply to maria85: Wow - I can't even imagine being able to do that! Even when I thought my core was pretty good and I was doing exercises I don't think I could do more than a minute. But I also know people who can just hold it basically until they get bored.

Is it just that their core is super strong or is there some physical aspect which means some people naturally find it easier than others??

Need to get Curious Yellow back on the post-sessoin core worksouts with me - competition does help motivation!

In reply to Ali:

10 minutes is mental. 40 is super human. I've just managed to crank out 30 secs, so I'm not as naff as I'd thought.

In reply to Ali: Technique I think - my best was a bit over 8.30 about 18 months ago. Long, slow breaths in and quickly out works for me. Keeps my core solid. I shake on the breath out, so try to avoid it for too long.
Just had my first go in months and did 2 minutes. Gotta say, it's never helped my climbing...

In reply to Ali: it builds up fast when done regularly do core sessions.
After a break from sessions I can normally plank for 30-45secs with good form (longer with bad form) and buld up to 3 mins in a week or two.

A friend sent me this core test
http://sportsmedicine.about.com/od/bestabexercises/a/core_test.htm
Hold for 60 seconds
3.Lift your right arm off the ground
Hold for 15 seconds
4.Return your right arm to the ground and lift the left arm off the ground
Hold for 15 seconds
5.Return your left arm to the ground and lift the right leg off the ground
Hold for 15 seconds
6.Return your right leg to the ground and lift the left leg off the ground
Hold for 15 seconds
7.Lift your left leg and right arm off the ground
Hold for 15 seconds
8.Return you left leg and right arm to the ground
9.Lift your right leg and left arm off the ground
Hold for 15 seconds
10.Return to the Plank Exercise Position (elbows on the ground)
Hold this position for 30 seconds

In reply to Ali:

I used this video as the basis of my core session:
youtube.com/watch?v=KUjFh4J1dnc&

If you can ignore the americanisms it's pretty good. After going along with that for a few weeks I tailored it to suit what I find easy/hard and threw in a bunch more push ups.

I think maybe some people's core is just naturally a lot stronger than others. Without ever putting much effort in to it I find sit ups and plank easy, not sure why. It doesn't seem to be related to overall strength either.

I quite enjoy having a good laugh at my boyfriend who can barely do one sit-up while I crank out 50 without really trying... he does normally challenge me to a pull-up competition to get his own back afterwards though!

I wonder if other aspects of strength, e.g. upper body, just come more naturally for some people than others?

In reply to maria85:

That looks good. Yeah, I find I can just crank out 100 situps quite easily. My normal core session is quite wimpy and poor really. I normally do:

30 situps, 30 dish tucks, 30 leg raises as a warm up

Then the above in 3 sets (i.e. 90 per set) with a minute or two between sets. So that's 270 moves in total. I sometimes add a few push-ups and pull-ups. However I normally do pull-ups in the fingerboard session and I'm keen not to over do them.

In reply to maria85: 20 minutes?! I think I may die after 5....I managed 2 mins last night before giving up. Looks good though - will give it a go later and see how far through I get

mrchewy - I think perhaps part of the problem is that I find I can't breath properly in plank, so I guess my muscles aren't getting the oxygen they need as well as being weak and pathetic?

grubes - cheers, will have a look at that too...sounds a bit more doable than Maria's monster session!

In reply to IainRUK: plank i exercise ball with elbows andtoes on one of those half exercise balls.. They have flat plastic base.. More intense therefore you can't do it for as long and makes the workout quicker

In reply to Ali:

I should add that is only part of the session I warm up with plan and dishes +split leg presses. Then more core after.

In reply to grubes:

Planks and dishes? I don't know what you are all talking about.

In reply to pork pie girl:

Hi ppg - sorry, I forgot that I'd not got round to replying to this. It may, though, have been the idea of a cricket ball up my bum that made me shove it to the back of my mind. Ouch, it sounds painful! Does it really help? Can't I have that Space Hopper thing you sit on instead?

I haven't risen to cricket ball therapy yet, but I have moved the computer screen so that I don't sit twisted on the chair, moved the chair forward so that I am not perched on the edge of it, on the edge of my bum, and pinched one of the nice thick cushions from the living room to sit on. That all seems to help.