/ Wilton 3

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cheek to the rock - on 17 Nov 2013
There is 2 VS routes there that just dont feel like VS,s to me.Ive managed to top rope Crooked crack the 4c,but when i had another go at it weeks later i failed.The other Forked crack 4b ive had 3 go's at and only got on the wall once.Is it me or are they both major sand baggers???
The Norris - on 17 Nov 2013
In reply to cheek to the rock:

I havent done them yet, but looking at the comments on the forum, it looks like both are tough for the grade if the climbs arent your style.
cheek to the rock - on 17 Nov 2013
In reply to cheek to the rock: How is it that i can second a HVS 5a clean onsight,and yet my local vs which ive spent hours on i cant even top rope it.Doesnt make sense.
Jimbo C - on 17 Nov 2013
In reply to cheek to the rock:

That's how grades are sometimes. They're not a perfectly accurate system (they're derived by consensus and so have a statistical distribution) and there will always be routes that feel tough for the grade, in fact some tope end VSs are actually harder than some bottom end HVSs (for some people). But, yes, those 2 particular climbs at Wilton are tough for the grade.
The New NickB - on 17 Nov 2013
In reply to cheek to the rock:

It's just a different style, I never much enjoyed it, but it is VS.
cheek to the rock - on 17 Nov 2013
In reply to The New NickB: What is this style called cos i need to work on it lol.I did bruvers at holly head mountain and to look at it,its a long steep crack alot like the wilton vs's but i managed it no problem after 3 hard days climbing.I tried forked crack fresh and after three quarters of an hour i hadnt got above 2 meters.Is it about foot placement becasue ive been told im a thug climber and i use my arms to much.Is the key to the 2 VS's tricky foot placement?
David Bennett - on 17 Nov 2013
In reply to cheek to the rock: Forked cracks is fine, just a couple of well protected pulls and it's over. Can get sandy at the top and not as well protected though. My very first VS lead many years ago. I always find Crooked crack much harder but it's a well protected and steep one move wonder, still VS though if top end.
cheek to the rock - on 17 Nov 2013
In reply to David Bennett: Ive managed the one hard move over the lip on crocked crack,and finished it clean twice on top rope,but forked crack i really struggle on,Ive been told the first move's are the crux,Ive got up the first bit once but burnt out not long after moving off from there hanging off the crack ha ha .I think i swore alot that day.
ByEek - on 18 Nov 2013
In reply to cheek to the rock: Crooked crack is quite tough, but is no where in the HVS range. It is a one move wonder and very well protect although I admit that I sometimes struggle on this. Forked crack isn't the best route in the world and receives a lot of muddy run off which gives the route a decidedly sandy feel making the climbing rather unnerving.

No excuses though. A good climber should be able to take such routes in their stride, choosing the appropriate excuse for failure without hesitation. :-)
John Postlethwaite - on 18 Nov 2013
In reply to cheek to the rock: Was going to say - sounds like a footwork issue. Quite balancy from memory. The Lancs quarries are(in)famous for being tough tests.
Calder - on 18 Nov 2013
In reply to cheek to the rock:
> There is 2 VS routes there that just dont feel like VS,s to me.Ive managed to top rope Crooked crack the 4c,but when i had another go at it weeks later i failed.The other Forked crack 4b ive had 3 go's at and only got on the wall once.Is it me or are they both major sand baggers???

A bit of gusto will see you through the former, and a combination of deft footwork and gusto will see you through the latter (and Flywalk).

And after you've done them you can enjoy pointing any budding VS leader at these routes and tell them, "It's bog standard VS" or the like. :o

FWIW I think Throsher is one of the friendlier VS's, so maybe a good one to start with.
Calder - on 18 Nov 2013
In reply to Calder:

PS. Samarkand is a good VS that'll give a nice sense of perspective! ;)

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