In reply to Carless:
Thanks to the OP and the various contributors for a very interesting post. I am 41, have been climbing pretty regularly for the last 8 years, on rock, chalk and ice, so a mix of normal climbing and having my hands wrapped around the grips of my Nomics (other brands are available!) and last year while out ice climbing in France we realised that four of the eight of us on the trip were all affected to some degree, but none to the extent where we could not straighten our finger(s) fully.
As I work with my hands I did some home work and ended up going private to go and see a specialist for some advice. This is what he said:
It is a very much a genetic condition and so this is what determines if you will have it and how fast it will progress , so according to him, what you do (climb or not, climb a little or climb a lot, week end warrior or rock legend) has little or no bearing. Interestingly he said that there is apparently a strong link to Viking ancestry, so get Grandma to talk you through the family tree. It would figure that the Viking gene is well represented amongst climbers as we are supposedly less averse to risk and able to manage it, plus drawn to adventure , the unknown, pushing the envelope etc.
Further to this, as it is your genes that dictate, trying to stretch it or splint it will make no difference to your progression, so don't bother.
In terms of deciding when to intervene, his nugget of truth was to wait until the contracture progressed to such a degree that it became apparent to you during every day tasks like your pinkie finger catching when you put your hands in your pockets or you finding that you inadvertently poke your self in the eye when you comb your hair (not likely to be a problem for me then having very little hair left on my head!)
Treatment wise, he reported that in the last five years he had done a "few hundred" cases and only 2 were full surgical excisions, the bulk were needle aperneurotomies and in the last two years 99% were collagenase. He did point out the risk of injection into the tendons (damage or rupture) plus said it is quite painful but is still the treatment of choice if done correctly as it has the best outcome in terms of healing and the lowest recurrence rate. So choose your surgeon wisely and find somebody that has done the procedure many times and has a high success rate.
He said I would be back within 5 years for surgery, so for now, I am climbing as much as I can and keeping my hands out my pockets
)
Now has anyone got any pearls of wisdom for my nagging rotator cuff injury ???