/ ME Fitzroy vs Arcteryx Atom SV

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Brian Pollock - on 20 Nov 2013
I'm in the market for a new synthetic belay jacket (approx. 100g primaloft fill) for Scottish winter climbing as well summer and winter in the Alps. I've narrowed it down to the Mountain Equipment Fitzroy (which I know a lot of people on here rate highly) and the Arcteryx Atom SV.

Does anyone have any experience of the Atom SV, specifically, is it warm/robust enough for my intended use? I am leaning slightly towards that as its lighter and probably more packable than the Fitzroy. Also, I would layer it with a nano puff for really cold stuff.
Si Withington - on 20 Nov 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:

I have both. I have used the Atom SV as a belay jacket/insulation layer for winter climbing in the UK for the last 3 seasons or so. Even though it's light, it does an excellent job - I really rate it and it's been out in some vile conditions.

I have the Fitzroy as team issue for MR. It's also a pretty decent piece of kit, but definitely more bulky than the Arcteryx. Pretty warm though, perhaps warmer than the Atom.

Given the choice, I'd always go fort the Atom for winter stuff in this country. Haven't used it in the Alps, but would do, perhaps with a gilet to back it up.

Si
Si Withington - on 20 Nov 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:

PS: have climbed in the Atom too when super cold moving off the belay and its stood up to some serious abuse. No issues.
blackreaver - on 20 Nov 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock: I see the Atom SV as more of a thick midlayer than a belay jacket.

The Fitzroy has wide, adjustable cuffs and 2 two way front zip.

The Fitzroy has 100g Primaloft One in the chrst (pockets are double insulated, so 200g over a large proportion of the chest area), and 60g in the arms and hood.

The Atom SV has 100g Coreloft everywhere (equivalent to 95g of Primaloft One - slightly less 'clo' value).

The Atom SV is more compressible and lighter.

IMO the Fitzroy is a better belay jacket, and the Atom SV is a better midlayer.
AlH - on 20 Nov 2013
In reply to blackreaver: I'll second that.
Mr Fuller on 20 Nov 2013
In reply to blackreaver: I'd second that too.

The build quality of the Atom is exceptional and I've grown to really like the faff-free hood and zip, though they are different from those on most belay jackets. The cuffs are the main difference, though between the jackets: on the Atom SV they are tight and elastic, therefore much more thermally efficient but arguably more tricky to get on/off. I hate velcro cuffs getting stuck on things/each other, so this is a major plus for me, though I know some people who dislike the jacket's tendency to turn inside-out following glove-stuck-in-cuff situations.
neuromancer - on 20 Nov 2013
In reply to blackreaver:

>atom sv a better midlayer

Since when did unbreathable synthetic jackets become midlayers? Do you people not sweat?
yesbutnobutyesbut - on 20 Nov 2013
In reply to neuromancer:
> (In reply to blackreaver)
>
> >atom sv a better midlayer
>
> Since when did unbreathable synthetic jackets become midlayers? Do you people not sweat?

The Atom is very breathable. No laminates or membranes in it.
martinph78 on 20 Nov 2013
In reply to neuromancer: but fleeces are so last decade ;)

To the OP, have you considered the Montane Flux? You'll have enough diesel money left over for a climbing trip :)

The Fitzroy is used by our MR team though, and to be honest I never see the guys NOT wearing it! It just seems that bit heavier, bit longer, and probably a bit warmer than the other offerings.
m0unt41n on 20 Nov 2013
In reply to blackreaver: Have both, also agree - Fitzroy seems better as a belay jacket as easier to pull over waterproof layer. Atom (I have the LT version) better as midlayer.
timmeehhhh - on 20 Nov 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:

I practically use my Fitzroy year round, as a summer belay jacket, or as an every day commute jacket during the colder months. It's still going strong after 2 years of intensive use. I'm really impressed with its durability and weather protection!
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Brian Pollock - on 20 Nov 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock: Thanks for all the comments. Decided to go with the Fitzroy. Managed to pick one up on Ebay (apparently new) for 120. Very pleased.

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