/ Aventura - Is crux block on P2 safe ?

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CurlyStevo - on 22 Nov 2013
Hi,
I have two guides for Swanage. The oldest of the two dates from the early 90's and mentions the block on the overhang of pitch 2 had tilted a bit more and isn't regarded as that safe. Since then there have been 20 years of ascents and the latest rockfax and UKC comments make little mention of this.

Has the block fallen down? If not is it assumed since its still there it wasn't as dodgy as once thought?

Thanks,
Steve
GrahamD - on 22 Nov 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

I think the block has turned out to be just as sound as the rest of the boulder ruckle :-)
CurlyStevo - on 22 Nov 2013
In reply to GrahamD:
haha that's kind of what I was assuming ;)
The Ivanator - on 22 Nov 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: Hi Stevo, I've done Aventura 3 times in the last few years. The crux roof/block withstood my hefty heave over technique on each occasion (it is intimidating looking - but easy 4c in execution), and assuming the whole thing doesn't depart it is well protected. The ground further left looks worse though, so sticking to the prescribed line is important. With the leftwards rising traverse you are at least not directly above your belayer when you address the crux.
Getting off the ground on P1 is the technical crux IMO, still just 4c though. There are several Swanage VSes I've done that are harder - Tatra and Heidelberg Creature for example.
Monkey_Alan - on 22 Nov 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

"The block" was accidentally removed a few years back - fortunately by a second rather than the leader.
The Ivanator - on 22 Nov 2013
In reply to Monkey_Alan:

I saw a this comment on the log for Aventura:

Beware loose rock on 2nd pitch! A piece the size of a suitcase came off when I was pulling round the roof. Keep as far right as you can at this point.
white tornado - 2nd - 12/Apr/09 with Neil W

Guess that is the incident you are referring to - all three of my ascents are more recent. There is still a distinct crux overhang, which as the first respondent jested is about as solid as the rest of the Ruckle.
CurlyStevo - on 22 Nov 2013
In reply to Monkey_Alan & Ivanator:

I think the block mentioned in my guide is infact the whole overhang on the crux of the second pitch (which is much larger than a suitcase), I think the suitcase size block mentioned on the ukc comments was dislodged by the second going too far left. Could be wrong tho'.
CurlyStevo - on 25 Nov 2013
To All:
Did the Route on saturday climbing in t shirts (which really was necessary even this was a bit hot).

Really enjoyed it, overhang on the second pitch was definately one of the highlights of any of the swanage routes I've done and the rock didn't seem too dodgey but obviously with any section of rock that large its hard to tell.

mike kann - on 25 Nov 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Has the block been proofloaded to 60% of its rated strength? ;)

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