UKC

Hi, was just wondering if people could give me ideas about where to go on a sport climbing holiday? It should be accessible without a car and have a decent bulk of quality routes from about 6c to 8a.

Even just a list of places would be great to get some ideas.

Thanks

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Geyikbayiri would be a good bet in that grade range at this time of year

In reply to mike1979:

That looks like an absolutely amazing crag and I've never even heard of it! However, does anyone know anywhere that is more suited to a summer trip?

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Are you wanting to go in the summer or the winter? That will affect your options,


Chris

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Ceuse?

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Kalymnos. Quite possibly my favourite sport climbing venue.

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Hey guys, I really like climbing and holidays but I hate reading and thinking, so perhaps I could just ask a really vague and open question and let you all answer it for me. Would that be okay?

Thanks.

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Hey, I'm currently in San Vito lo capo, Sicily. If you can get here from the airport ?bus all the crags are within walking distance of the campsite and brilliant rock. Although I am only climbing the easy stuff. There's. Load of stuff not in the guide book too.

In reply to Beckyi:

Pretty nearly everything is in the 2nd edition of Sicily Rock as it was up to date last year and an update to this is at the printers at the moment.

In reply to seankenny:

Pretty much yes, surely the best possible way to research information about "good sport climbing destinations which are accessible without renting a car in Europe" is to ask a question on UKC, where there are many people who are highly knowledgeable about the subject?

It's difficult to gauge if the author of any information online has any vested interest in the crag they are all telling me is amazing/better than the next crag. Sometimes, there's a lot of conflicting information, especially if the crag has been allowed to deteriorate.

Thanks to anyone who has suggested any ideas. As someone pointed out, I forgot to mention when I was planning to go. I'm hoping to go either around Easter time or later on in the year, around about June (which rules out quite a few places due to the heat)

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

I'd suggest you get hold of a copy of Europe Vertical by Jingo Wobbly (aka David Jones) which is an overall guidebook to European crags, with inspiring photos. An amazing amount of info in one book. Published in 2002 so add to it any newly developed crags that you hear of but still invaluable IMO.

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

How about going to your local climbing shop and having a look through the guides? You know, have a look at what's out there, see what takes your fancy, etc.

Climbers used to value being independent, get up and go types... :p

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Paklenica in Croatia. Best month to visit is September.

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Hi...something a little bit different from the well known and popular sport crags but why not give it a go...

"Labske piskovce(czech)/Elbsandstein(german)" in Czech republic. Abbreviated as "Labak".

material: sandstone
type of climbing: sport + trad (only slings+knots). Plenty of sport lines are sufficiently protected.

Routes overview (left river's bank):
http://www.czechclimbing.com/cesty.php?sort=102&kl1=&kl2=&cuid=...

and here (right river's bank)

http://www.lezec.cz/cesty.php?sort=102&kl1=&kl2=&cuid=&cobl...

googled some english info here:
http://climbinglabak.blogspot.de/2009/05/information-about-labak.html

Let me know if you would like more information...

adam

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Happy to add another vote for Paklenica, Croatia. Particularly if you go in June which might be getting a tad warm in some of the other well-known sun-rock venues. The Paklenica gorge offers shade on one side or the other most of the day (and it's a lot further north than Sicily or Kalymnos). I went in August. I don't think there's a bus to the gorge though, so it's a 3k walk (approx.) or a hitch. I don't climb above 6b but I think there's plenty in harder grades.

In reply to Martin Hore:

Thanks! I just had a little look into Paklenica! It looks very nice, what style is the climbing? From the photos I've seen it mostly looks vertical, so I'm guessing its crimpy?

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Paklenica? Well, if you're looking for multi pitch sport routes, then yes. If you're mostly interested in single pitch sport routes, then don't bother. It's also too hot to climb during summer

In reply to jimtitt:

there was allot of new bolting going on this year. filling in gaps, a few new areas. Its a great area

In reply to Beckyi:

The 3rd edition of Sicily Rock came out last week with 110 new routes included so 781 total. There are 7 routes missing somehow!

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Try Malta & Gozo - we've just published a new sport climbing guidebook with over 500 routes at all levels. Climbings possible the whole year round though we tend to do a lot of dws in summer due to the heat.

In reply to jimtitt:

Great, have to get it when we go back. I want to go back and push my grade a bit!