/ Scarpa Omegas mashing ankles.

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Dave Kerr - on 24 Nov 2013
Has anyone else:

a. Found that Omegas really hurt the inside of their ankles?
b. Discovered a solution?

I got them cheap but just have not got on with them at all. I'm starting to think its the bend in the tongue and may try cutting off the top part of it.

They also hurt me on the instep and outside edge of foot but I think thats a footbed issue.

Cheers
ice.solo - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:

different boot, but i had excruciating pain on the front half of the inside ankle bone with olympus mons - sounds similar - and did indeed cut a section away as well as punch holes thru the surrounding inner boot over the entire ankle bone area. it worked well (and didnt really compromised the boots insulating properties either).
Dave Kerr - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to ice.solo:

That sounds very similar. I'm reluctant to give up on them so might give that a go.
Strachan on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:

Sounds stupid, but check both the insoles/footbeds are for the correct feet. I had a pair that after a couple of hours would become horrendously painful; turned out there were two left footbeds in them. Needless to say they got sent back and I bought something more expensive!
Dave Kerr - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Strachan:

Definately not that!

I'm going to try the inners from a different pair of boots.
Nigel Thomson - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:

I also got them cheap thinking they'd be a great spare boot for taking along on extended Scottish trips. I've been unable to get beyond the heel lift never mind any other fitting problems. I was hoping the inner boot might soften up a bit and cling to the foot a bit more but no so far.
dek - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:

Phone the boys in Mountain Spirit in Aviemore for advice? They're good at sorting out pressure points on boots, plastic and leather. Or maybe a local ski shops, boot fitter?
Dave Kerr - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to the weegy:

> I've been unable to get beyond the heel lift never mind any other fitting problems.

Cranking up the cuff stops the heel lift for me but then the ankles hurt!
Climbing Pieman on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:
Try refitting them? Maybe need more that one heat treatment? http://www.twentyclicks.co.uk/?p=233. Highlights how that user choose to fit them and at the end it mentioned the need for volume reducers as a necessity.
Dave Kerr - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Climbing Pieman:

It seems to be a problem with the outer pressing through the inner rather than the inner fitting.
Climbing Pieman on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:
Ah ok, I've had problems like that in the past with outer plastic causing grief and just gave up eventually! Limited success with heat shaping outer, but question how long that lasts. The plastic seems to have a memory effect :-)!
Nigel Thomson - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Climbing Pieman:

Oops. Just remembered you can tailor the fit using heat. What a tool!
Dave 88 - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:

Wore mine (also bought on the cheap) for the first time today. Found them pretty comfy although I have quite narrow feet. Did you find the laces got mullered by the ankle cleats though? One route and mine are almost worn through.
Nigel Thomson - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave 88:

Yeah, my laces were buggered and they've not been worn outside yet.
Dave 88 - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to the weegy:

Trying to find replacement laces long enough is not proving too easy either.
Lesdavmor - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave 88:

I found the Omega to be an excellent boot. After training in them I did Mont Blanc by the Gouter route. My only complaint was that the laces slackened off, a nuisance when wearing gaiters.
Rick Graham on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:

Oh dear.

I too have a pair (or two) of Alpha/Omega bought cheap, I was about to try then out this winter in the winter wonderland of the Scottish Highlands.

Looks like a bit of testing and experimentation in the Lakes will be needed. Its only playing but less of a drive.

In the past I've modified Koflachs, Asolos and Vegas with closed cell foam on the ankles, under the tongue and back of the heel. I hate heel lift but overtightening the laces gives you dead feet. Another trick if the inner is slipping about is to smear shoe goo on the inner and outer to get some grip between the two.

My flat broad feet need the optimum footbed shape and thickness. I am always trying out different combinations of sock and footbed.
Dave Kerr - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Rick Graham:

It seems they're one of those boots you either get on with or not. I'm just about to cut up an old karimat and glue it in strategic points.
Robert Durran - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:

> Has anyone else:

> a. Found that Omegas really hurt the inside of their ankles?

Yes. I bought them cheap off someone on here. Might persevere.....
Climbing Pieman on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave 88:

> Trying to find replacement laces long enough is not proving too easy either.

Are they the 220 cm ones?
ads.ukclimbing.com
Dave 88 - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Climbing Pieman:

230, but anything over 200 would probably be ok
wadh1720 - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:

Yes, bought a pair on sale for about 100 last season to use to prepare for Winter ML qualification.

Absolutely destroyed my ankles, but persevered with them and my legs got used to them.

At the end of the day, plastic is much more unyielding compared with fabric, but it's your body that'll have to get used to them, rather than the other way round.

As for laces, swap them for 3mm cord from a climbing shop. The original laces are useless.
Climbing Pieman on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave 88:

> 230, but anything over 200 would probably be ok

The outdoor shop - https://www.theoutdoorshop.com/showPart.asp?part=PN33522 - had Scarpa 220 cm laces the last time I looked. But the delivery charges will be more tharen the laces :-0.
Dave 88 - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to wadh1720 & Climbing Pieman-

Cheers for the help. Think the originals will be getting posted back to scarpa.

wadh1720 - on 25 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave 88:

Not sure whether you are referring to the boots or laces. If the boots, I would definitely persevere with them, as I have found them to be excellent in winter. Like I said, plastic brings its own characteristic to the proceedings, but I suppose it's down to personal preference.
Dave 88 - on 25 Nov 2013
In reply to wadh1720:

Oh yeah just the laces. Loved the boots, but for the laces to be wrecked after one gully is ridiculous.
Dave Kerr - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:

For those experiencing the same problems here are the fruits of my continuing experimentation (aka 'I'm too tight to buy new boots'):

The heel lift issue can be solved by lacing the last 2 rows of hooks underneath the tongue rather than over it. This lets you pull the cuff tighter and cinches it nicely around the heel.

The ankle mashing issue is more complex but seems to mainly be due to the little soft grey lobe below the ankle cuff deforming when my ankle flexes forward. This creates a ridge of plastic that squeezes on my ankle.

Not too sure how to solve it yet but more karrimat is likely to be involved.
Slugain Howff - on 11 Dec 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:

The worst boot I have ever owned.

S
mcdweeb - on 11 Dec 2013
In reply to Slugain Howff:

Try experimenting with lacing, I've always left the top two lacings undone for the walk in which allows plenty of ankle flex and then tighten up at the gearing up stage.
I tie a knot in the first couple of lacings so these can't be overtightened and cause toe problems.
A lot of fitting probs with plastics can be solved with time and some experimentation with lacing. You have to persevere and keep trying something new to find out which way to lace works for you. IMHO
remus - on 11 Dec 2013
In reply to mcdweeb:

I've found leaving the top unlaced for the walk in to work well for me as well. There's still a little discomfort after fully lacing up for the steep stuff but it's a minor annoyance rather than a total pain in the balls.
Slugain Howff - on 11 Dec 2013
In reply to mcdweeb:

> A lot of fitting probs with plastics can be solved with time and some experimentation with lacing. You have to persevere and keep trying something new to find out which way to lace works for you. IMHO

I've worn various plastic boots for the last 30 years without any problems - had to give up on the Omegas though.

S
Wee Davie - on 11 Dec 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:

This thread has bright to mind my worst plackie experience- the round trip to the Dubh Loch in Scarpa Vegas. Needed ankle and shin transplants by the time I got back to Glen Muick...

I was almost tempted by the cheap Omega deals about. Glad I saw this.
andybrown114 - on 03 Jan 2014
In reply to Dave Kerr:

I've used Omegas for 4 seasons now and found them generally good boots. They are very warm compared with anything else I've worn in the past and are light and relatively comfortable compared with a lot of plastic boots. A bonus is they are also pretty cheap. However I've had 2 problems with them in the last season and the start of this one:

1. The metal lace eyes have started snapping off. Easy to replace but I've lost 3 now and it is getting a bit tedious sending them off to Lancashire Tent Repairs each time.

2. My new crampons (Black Diamond Cyborgs) don't fit particularly well and when the strap is done up tight the heel clip is levered off the back of the boot and the crampon can come off when you are walking.

Other than that they are belting!

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