UKC

Hi does any body have any suggestions for any where to climb in Leicestershire that inst a SSSI, a filled in quarry or has major access issues ?

In reply to 1176gws:

You've ruled out all the best venues there!

In terms of quality, you're best bet is Forest Rock and The Brand. The trad options at forest rock are pretty limited, especially if you're climbing under E3. There's a much better selection at the Brand, though you need to get in contact with the owner first. She's usually pretty accommodating as long as it hasn't been raining recently.

Beacon hill is also an option if you don't mind stretching your definition of trad to very high ball boulder problems. Best stuff is in the E1/font 6A region.

If you're feeling really desperate Markfield quarry is also an option. It hasn't been filled in (though itd be better if it was) and some routes have been recorded, though they're very much an acquired taste. Whether you'll live long enough to acquire that taste is another matter entirely.

In reply to 1176gws:

Don't forget full on adventure trad on Barden Hill and slippery bouldering on Beacon Hill.

I've had good times at Markfield Quarry in a dirty sort of way.

In reply to 1176gws:

Crag Buddon is probably the finest bit of rock, lovely setting by the reservoir and a few good quality routes.

In reply to Removed User:

What's the access situation with Barden Hill, on the Leicestershire climbs website there is an extract from a letter saying climbing is not allowed as its a working quarry

In reply to Removed User:

Id forgotten about Craig buddon, a fine piece of leicestershire rock!

In reply to remus:

This is also recorded as no access as its a SSSI is this still the case ?

In reply to 1176gws:

Access to Bardon Hill is 'break and enter'. Actually just abseil in from the public footpath at the top. It's so far above the quarry workings I can't imagine you being challenged especially in the evenings. The scale of the quarry is incredible, and the setting of the routes quite spectacular in that sense. Big loose though so be careful.

Craig Buddon I thought was SSSI off to the sides only?

In reply to Removed User:

cheers will check these out with the next bit of good weather

In reply to 1176gws:

Craig Buddon is about the best option for a mix of grades and gets the late sun in the summer, autumn. Its a bit late in the season for slate unless me get a long dry spell. You could always go Slawston Bridge the first training venue of some great climbers!

In reply to 1176gws:

also charnwood quarry - see http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/index.php/charnwood-quarry.html