UKC

Thinking of buying the beastmaker 1000 I climb up to v9 on a very good day and generally climb around v7-8 I am heavy though at 13 .5 stone. Has any body out there there any advise on this product

In reply to mugglewump:

With the grades your climbing I feel you would get very little from a 1000 and would highly recommend the 2000.

In reply to mugglewump: In the least offensive way, it could be your weight holding you back rather than finger strength. Supplement a training session a week on running/cycling/swimming and focus on your diet. A loss of even a stone will yield great results. So be careful of all those Christmas puds. If you're dead set on a Beastmaker get the 1000 unless you have facilities to warm up before hand effectively, e.g. a system/bouldering board.

In reply to mugglewump:

At your level 2000 all the way!

In reply to Jackwd:
Ha, yeah fair one my grades do improve when I'm lighter! I blame the nice ales in yorkshire. I'm doing iron man uk next year so I imagine the weight will go during training for that.

In reply to mike1979:

Thanks for that. Not had a chance to use either does the 2000 have some decent hold / jugs just thinking that as it would be in the kitchen I would like to use it for regular pull ups without worrying about warming the fingers up. Cheers

In reply to mugglewump:

If you are climbing v9 the middle slopers and biggest slots should be good to warm up on. Def get the 2000. I have that but I do have an old simulator too that is useful for warming up as it has some jugs. ..but I am in a freezing cold cellar!!

In reply to mugglewump:

If you are climbing those grades I am slightly confused why you are asking. Surely its obvious? Always good to chat though.

In reply to Crimpchimp:

Not seen either board that's why I ask as im just about to order online i dont want to regret getting the wrong one.to be honest I don't train indoors at all so it's all new to me. Thanks very much for the comments looks like its the 2000

In reply to mugglewump:

Either board suit you, most people would say to buy the 2000. But in defence of the poor old 1000, Alex Johnson (American climber with a couple of wins on the world cup and tons of V10 and upwards under here her) has just gone and got herself a 1000.
The best thing to do would be see if a local centre has either and have a look and abit of a play

In reply to mugglewump:

Although very good boards its not all about the BMs, i've just bought myself one of these on the recommendation from a mate and am very impressed. A bit wider and greta for pull ups and frenchies as well as normal dead hanging standard finger training..
worth considering
http://crusherholds.co.uk/matrix-climbing-fingerboard

In reply to boulderbaz:
Thanks for that it looks great!

In reply to mugglewump:

Bouldering V9 with no indoor training whatsoever? Good effort! What rock type?

Personally I'd say go for the 2000, and then get some rock rings for pull ups etc. Way better as it trains balance muscles, gymnastic rings are well worth looking at too.

In reply to MischaHY:
Grit, it's all about head torch climbing for me although it was a bit painful tonight. Good call on the gymnastic rings I had a month working away using them massively improved my all round strength. I'm making an effort to train this coming year and I think a fingerboard will be vital. Thanks for the advise

In reply to mugglewump:

Ahh, proper rock then If you are making an effort to train, surely the rock gyms are tempting? Personally I find training indoors to be a great benefit.

In reply to mugglewump:

Buy the Beastmaker 1000 Series and don't look back. Ego makes you buy the 2000 and then you regret it.

There isn't much the 2000 offers over the 1000 apart from 45 degree slopers very few will ever use.

The 1000 comes with jugs which are good for warming up on. The finger pockets are pretty much the same between the 2; If you really need a narrower ledge then stuff some paper in them, at least you have the choice that way.

In reply to DaveDaveDave: Ego...and the Beastmaker product info surely?

In reply to mugglewump:

Personally I found what Sonnie Trotter had to say on the matter very convincing:

http://sonnietrotter.com/the-v-board/

Sadly there were non available when I needed on. So I just bought a couple of campus rungs of different depths and had them modified a bit by http://karmaclimbing.com - then put them on a bit of 18mm plyboard cut to size. Whole thing was less than 20 quid.

In reply to boulderbaz:
Just ordered one of these matrix Boards! I'm looking forwards to getting stuck in.

In reply to DaveDaveDave:

>Ego makes you buy the 2000 and then you regret it.

Or maybe you don't because a finger board is for finger training not for use as a pull-up bar substitute.


Two different types of mono, offset 2 finger pockets, sloping 2 finger pockets and much smaller edges. The whole point of the thing is progressively working your weaknesses and getting stronger, if you're already bouldering 7C like the OP and not aspiring to one arming the 45 degree slopers then no fingerboard is for you.