UKC

Off to curbar tomorrow to have a go at some wide cracks thinking sorrels sorrow, elder crack, left eliminate and with enough energy anything else you guys can think of. On the way im going to buy a camalot either a 4 or a 5,my question is which one is going to be the most use on those? no point in buying a 4 and it just rattling around.
I prostrate myself on the altar of your wisdom

In reply to admackie:

I fell off Elder Crack onto my Friend#6, I was glad to have it, but there was a decent wire deep in the crack a little lower. IIRC the crack gets narrower after the crux so you'd get away with a #5 I guess. Of course, if you don't fall off, you don't need either!

In reply to admackie:

Left eliminate, my mate told me i couldn't use anything bigger than a size 4 friend as it would be cheating as he hadn't (though he didn't do it clean!), a larger size would have been nice but might have just got in the way and it was plenty safe enough without.

On Sorrels Sorrow i didn't use anything larger than a size 3.5, I seem to remember there being no real need again for anything bigger.

Elder crack i used a camalot 4 (i think it wasn't the biggest one) that only just touched the sides on the crux but there is a excellent wire just below which would still make it safe. I didn't have anything else left after that (i couldn't quite get a size 4 friend to fit but a 5 i think would) so just one big run out to the top, much easier but not totally straight forward so I made sure not to fall off.

another wide crack to try at Curbar is Hercules, i used a size 6 friend on this, but you could lasso the cock stone early and do it without.

The other obvious one is right eliminate but I've not tried this yet so can't help.

Personally I go for the largest size as it will be of use on other large cracks in the peak (cave crack, the mangler, centaur - not tried this yet)

nice reply very useful thanks, I like the idea of lassoing a cock stone sounds like some sort of phallic fair ground game

In reply to admackie:


Friends 5 or 6 would be a better choice: wider and therefore more stable than camalots, firmer springs and so less likely to walk.

In reply to flaneur:

single stems are also lighter, imo the advantage you get from greater range is less of a bonus in the large sizes anyway

In reply to admackie:

If you have the money buy both a 5 and 6, it will open the door to trying some superb wide cracks and off-widths all over. I can recommend the Brimham "Dirty Dozen"

In reply to admackie:
I placed My camalot 6 on elder, l eliminate. My mate used it in r eliminate and goliath.


All brilliant and its running at about 8 quid a route...
We had an old hb 5 and friend 4 as well

In reply to admackie:

Well in the end I bought a 5 camalot got to curbar and first up was hercules the cam didn't fit one bit so I though I'd lassoo the chock, i got a sling over it but it jammed with about 1.5m on one side and 10cm on the other, 2 runners! (perhaps). HErcules was an exhausting struggle but i got up. Next up left eliminate, Oh my god its a different grade, I dont think i know how to do this yet. Fell out of the crux twice? I think and one time fell out with both hands flapping wildly ony to find that my foot was stuck and I couldn't actualy fall all the way out. The top is a struggle to, got to the top tried to build a belay and my arms must have pumped out with all that extra blood flowing around. Glad there was no one around cos I just lay there for an ageing moaning and groaning.

My hands were like bloody meat by now so that was the end of the day. Typing this 4 days later and I stil ache. Does anyone feel that you get a lot more climbing on something like this instead of dancing up some E grade affair in 30 seconds. A definate experience,

In reply to admackie:

Oh and what next for me and my trusty no5 any reccomendations?

In reply to admackie:

maybe not cricket but there are a couple of hand/foot holds on the face to the right of the crack (maybe also one on the left?) on Left Eliminate that make it considerably easier, did you use these?

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

yeahI did not sure what to do after the last big one on the right, think I got out and back in the other way at that point which cant be right

In reply to admackie: You are suffering from wide crack disease (also known as offwidth syndrome). I suggest you seek therapy quickly before it becomes chronic

In reply to admackie:

I seconded Sorrells Sorrow were the leader placed a big cam and the rope kept getting caught on it in the crack

In reply to petegunn:

how many have you done?

In reply to admackie:

You can get away with a camalot 5 on Elder Crack, a 6 would be nice but a 5 will protect the crux it will be by and then a bit below your feet, instead of above your head like a 6 could be). I think I just managed ot get a camalot 4 in post crux at the very start of the layback where the crack is narrowest...but only just.
A 5 will also do for Right Eliminate, and you can get a 4 in at the crux too I think.
As for Sorrell's, I did that with just a 4 I think and m not even sure if I used it...but it was a logn time ago so take that with a pinch of salt.

In reply to Offwidth:

Just the clean lead of Gigglin' to go on The Dirty Dozen and i am half way through "A Dirty Dozen More"
Did Twinking Crack a few weeks ago, both my partner and i thought it was quite easy compared to the gritstone ones, limestone climbers only used to crimps
Aladdinsane at Trowbarrow is good un too (lots of other gear on this one so dont really need the big cams)

In reply to petegunn:

I have a 5 and a 6 Camalot.The six usually stays at home,whereas I always take the 5.Lighter,for one thing.A five will protect numerous gnarly hard severes and vs's,now that I am much more of a wrinkled bumbly.Good for both Goliath,Right Elim and Ramshaw Crack.
A four and a five should do for Gigglin',which I have still only top roped...

In reply to admackie:

Both.....3 routes?!
Anyway,if you don't have the cam,just get on a top rope.

In reply to paul mitchell:

I did elder crack with just a number 4 c4. It rattled around all over the shop before getting fully tipped out and stuck. Get a 5 and 6 c4 if you want to get into big cracks, you won't regret it.

In reply to petegunn:

Good on ya. When you see these lists being put together you hope people will try and climb them. I've a long way to go yet.

In reply to admackie:

As you didn't get around to it, you should definitely tackle Sorrell's Sorrow next time you're at Curbar. It's ace.

Have you done Kremlin Crack at Rivelin? That would be a nice route to stick your big purple cam in on a bright cold day.

In reply to admackie:

Beta alert :you need some big chockstones for the eliminates, a moac and a broddling stick for elder crack.