UKC

I have climbed a great many of the latter, but only a few of the former.

It might be climbable, and well within the scope of winter climbing (steer clear of that can of worms) yet not be in great nick!

In reply to French Erick:

That's the joy of it. If it was predictably great nick, it would be too easy.

In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Everything here is covered in grey frozen slush and black verglas this morning so definetly proper winter conditions, rather than a sprinkling of frost on dry rock

In reply to French Erick:

As always, an interesting post Erick!!


Stuart

In reply to French Erick:

Does it not depend if you post about after on Gloatbook or your bog?

In reply to French Erick:

You shouldn't have missed the 80s!

In reply to French Erick:


I made a comment to that effect the other day when folks were referring to routes that were only just in nick as in good nick.

In reply to French Erick:

A big breakthrough in my climbing was when i realised that mixed climbing wasn't what you did in crap conditions cause you couldn't go ice climbing....

I'll never forget 5 hours on postern (without the direct finish).

postie was there too, can't remember who followed who.

In reply to george mc:

I am as vain as the next man and I like my gloatbook too.
I just find interesting that some people will automatically equate great nick with a tick.

I have been known to make that mistake in my early years of climbing. I have even climbed routes that were not in... they were never as rewarding.

It's all about learning. Sometimes it's nice to be reminded of certain things. No doubt, someone will tell me I am being elitist, this, that and the other....

In reply to French Erick:


Do you find routes that are in great nick as rewarding? Memorable for sure, but I think I've only ever climbed a few routes in great nick, I romped up them and just felt that I got away with it, not that I did justice to the route... Maybe on great nick days I should jump a grade.

In reply to jonnie3430:

I find routes that aren't in scary, as opposed to not as rewarding! I find it is much easier to climb hard (for me) when the picks aren't pulling through and I have faith the gear will hold! But I'm a wimp.

In reply to cannichoutdoors:

Nah, great nick days is good ice that picks can't fall out of, but cracks clear so gear bomber. Hang on...

In reply to jonnie3430:


I did Parallel Gully B on Lochangar in 1977 (in the days when it still existed) at Grade III, a route I'd been after for years, and it was really disappointing just to plod up it by lunchtime and have time for a couple of routes in the afternoon. Then do 4 more routes the next day, each 2 grades easier than the book said. It was all a bit of a let down!

In reply to jonnie3430:

Depends what great nick, what route type? Some ice routes become path, some buttress routes have bomber turf throughout whilst looking white and good pro.
I remember getting SCnL central grooves in great nick, it's still my best ever winter experience.

I guess it all depends what you want from your climbing experience.

In reply to French Erick:
Hi mate, I think Robert Durran mentioned the other week that if the turf isn't frozen then mixed is nae fun. I agree- I remember trying to do a steep grade III of Ken Crocket's in Tarmachan, where the picks were ripping through. Backed off it!

As far as a kudos-o-meter goes. If it's frozen and you're enjoying it why complain? Do I feel annoyed I didn't have a buttock clenching time on Orion Direct last season in amazing conditions? Nope!

In reply to French Erick:

Most of my mixed climbing has typically been early season on routes that are in condition but maybe not in great nick (or the conditions they are graded for!) while I wait for the ice routes to come in. As a result I always thought mixed was all a bit of a struggle! The other week however we climbed a route with a nice coating of rime, bomber turf and next to no powder and it was fantastic! Not only was it the most enjoyable mixed climbing experience I've had, it also felt like one of the easiest even though it theoretically was one of the harder routes I've climbed! Ironic eh?!

In reply to French Erick:

I just love it when you start with low expectations of conditions, either forecast or word of mouth, only to discover great conditions. Whether its in good or great nic, it somehow manages to satisfy more, and becomes special.

In reply to Wee Davie:

Davie my good man, you should remember me for what I am... a French man full of shite!
That I should complain is a national compulsion, indeed I was first exiled to the semi-frozen North because I was not ready to halt the motorway, man barricades and throw rotten tomatoes to people looking vaguely different from me.
As for what I should complain about, being a cowardly French man, it will never be about should it be climbed- too big a scope for my wee frog brain-but when it is climbed was it good enough or great.

Anyway, I was raised a catholic and will get eternal pardon if I confess on my death bed- either ways I am covered