UKC

Southern Portugal

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Removed User 06 Dec 2013
Don't appear to be able to reply to your post so hopefully you'll see this one. Obviously, being sea cliffs facing the Atlantic you're going to have to take the weather in to consideration; but the various sectors face different directions so you should find a sheltered spot. Find the Dromidario café in Sagres and ask for the climbing topo book. If you can take a spare ab rope it would be useful.

Roca de Pena is small and only worth a visit if the sea cliffs are out.



Here are some co-ordinates for Google Maps. Copy and paste the numbers.

37.006194,-8.927486 Sector Baleera

20+ bolted routes 25-30m 5+ to 7b mainly 5+ to mid 6's. Abseil into good ledges. closely spaced bolts.

37.00351,-8.930005 The Garden

5 bolted routes 30m 3+ to 4+ Abseil to good ledges. Separate abseil rope useful as pulled ropes tend to hang up on blocks and flakes.

37.002387,-8.932228 Navigator slab

3 bolted routes 5+ to 6a 40m Abseil to good ledge or downclimb (abseil bolts)and scramble in from 37.001582,-8.931474 mid to low tide.

37.023492,-8.963751 Beliche

2 bolted routes both two pitches 6b to 7a. 27m X 2 abseils to good ledges.

37.026485,-8.978598 Parete Riscas

11 routes 6b to 7a+ 30m Abseil to good ledges. Rock is much better than it looks.

37.021151,-8.984578 Sector Corgas

20 routes 6a to 8c mainly 7 and 8's steeply OHing. Abseil in from anchors above, or abb/scramble in from fishermans path 100m further south towards the headland

37.024253,-8.98908 The Furnace

A dozen bolted lines within this area 4+ to 8a Walk in access

37.026236,-8.99371 White Slab

4 bolted routes 5 to 7a Abseil to good ledges 45m or 2 X 25m

37.026861,-8.992454 Latitudes

2 bolted routes 6b to 7a Abseil to good ledge in the sea 2 X 30m

37.028647,-8.99095 The Mirror

4 bolted routes 6a to 7a Abseil to good ledge 45m or 2 X 30; or 3 bolt hanging stance

37.030163,-8.98672 Armação Nova

20+ bolted routes in various states. 10m to 70m. Mainly walk in with wade at low tide or abseil for Parete Grande at far end.


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