/ hexs or nuts - what to buy first?

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ow arm - on 06 Dec 2013
Im fairly new to outdoor climbing, will be doing up to v.diff probably but with a more experienced friend and his gear. Ill be taking my wife on some moderates and some grade II or III scrambles and was wondering what to get first (i know a few sets of each are ideal but is always a factor).

If you suggest one or the other, or a few of each - what sizes would be most useful?

Ill be around snowdonia mostly if that makes a difference. Thanks in advance people!
martinph78 on 06 Dec 2013
In reply to owena:

A set of nuts will usually give you more placements and are generally easier to place/get the hang of.

1-10 is a decent set, but if I'm doing mountain diffs I'll usually take a half set (so 1,3,5,7,9). I don't place gear on scrambles though...
DJ7A - on 06 Dec 2013
In reply to owena:

Nuts would be a far better investment. I started my trad rack with a full set of DMM Wallnuts and found them great. Its hard to say which sizes would be most useful but all of my DMM set have seen countless placements.

Don't get hexes, they're really annoying and hard to place well until you have a fair amount of experience with them (I have a full set of hexes and I've placed 2 or 3 of them maybe 6 times each...). Good luck!!
csw on 06 Dec 2013
In reply to owena:
They're not really an either/or proposition - Hexes go where wedges won't and vice versa. - It's easy to imagine more placements in the size range that wedges fit, but what about that one difficult move that your biggest wire is too small to protect? I'd hesitate to set off on any mountain route without big gear.


Hexes aren't particularly hard to place and they have more placement options than wedges. Persevere with them
Post edited at 19:18
ow arm - on 06 Dec 2013
In reply to csw:

ok, so lets say i got a set of 1-11 wallnuts and then what size hexs do you find most useful?
Otis - on 06 Dec 2013
In reply to owena:

Worth keeping an eye out for deals. I got a full set of dmm wallnuts and torque nuts (hex's) at a good price from v12. If you can only get one I'd vote for a set of nuts.
csw on 06 Dec 2013
In reply to owena:

That's an impossible question to answer. You place gear where you need it, and the size of the gap you're placing it in determines what's going to be useful. If cost is really a factor [and it was for me when I was putting a rack together] then I'd get every other size, to start with, making sure I included the largest, and you could probably miss out the smallest two on the assumption you'll have wires of a similar size
ow arm - on 06 Dec 2013
In reply to owena:

if it were an easy answer I wouldnt need to ask :)
In reply to owena:

Nuts
ledifer on 07 Dec 2013
In reply to Submit to Gravity:
Definitely a full set of nuts first.

What type of rock are you climbing, that gives an indicator of how much bigger gear you're going to want.
As for hexes, torque nuts cover a very large range for only 4 pieces. You can pick up a set on here quite often quite cheap. I think I got mine new for 40

jack_44 - on 07 Dec 2013
In reply to owena:

It would be wise to get the hexes in the size range that your wires don't cover. So the largest 3 at least I would say.

Agree with maybe leaving the smallest 1 or 2 hexes out, as these are covered by the wires.

I would mention if you are doing long routes, then doubling up on a few wires that you place a lot is useful as well.
ow arm - on 07 Dec 2013
In reply to jack_44:
Ill find out which ones I use most and get some more of those, good advice.

Post edited at 16:38
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Blue Straggler - on 07 Dec 2013
In reply to owena:

A set of nuts, plus a CAMP Carvex 7, plus two hexes. You don't need a "set" of hexes.


Or think outside the box and just get 6 tricams on wire from Viamont / Kouba for about 50.

http://www.viamontgear.com/gear/tricams/tricams.htm


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