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Topic - Wide Boyz Crack machine for London Wall training

Kemics - on 07 Dec 2013
So I have a garage, access to a wood workshop and unrealistic ambitions :)

I'm thinking of building a finger crack machine to train up for london wall. It's waaay above my current limit (E2/3) but I've got psyched watching wideboyz and thought I might try to replicate their approach to training.

I've only stood under london wall once (in awe)

It seems pretty close to pure face climbing, but I'm thinking of making my crack slightly over hanging (so the real thing feels easier)

So I have a couple of questions im hoping people with either crack machines or who've climbed London wall can help with:

Most important: Width? Am I right in thinking London Wall is mostly peg scars? What width is it? I'm thinking right now it's about 20mm? Is it consistent or does it vary in width. Is it worth making two cracks? (only takes one extra bit of wood)

What type of wood is best to use? keep it natural or use some texture paint (harsh on the skin?) Also what thickness board 2/3 inch?

Are there any specific crux moves, i.e lock off, ring locks, flaring jams?

Is it worth building a floor to roof crack (approx 9ft high garage) and trying lap it by awkwardly down climbing. Or just make a crack hang board. like 2 ft and just hold the static position.

Any advice or thoughts would be massively helpful!
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