/ Speed climbing wall grade?

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r0x0r.wolfo - on 10 Dec 2013

What grade is the official speed climbing wall route?

Maybe it's too simple a question but thanks in advance :).
Post edited at 03:27
deacondeacon - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:

I dont know what it is officially but having tried one i'd say it's easy f5.
Simos on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:

No idea but doesn't look too bad - if you want to build one you can look at this :)

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/about-ifsc/Speed_Project/IFSC_speed_license_rules_2013-version-2...
r0x0r.wolfo - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:

An easy f5? Where did you try one?

Any other suggestions?
deacondeacon - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:

Awesome walls sheffield. Although they should be the same grade everywhere. I'd think it could feel pretty reachy if you were climbing it statically but because you're running through it, and climbing dynamically it feels fine. Thinking about it, it may be a little harder as it's slightly overhanging but I'd expect someone to get up it on their first day of climbing.
r0x0r.wolfo - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:

Fair enough. I've heard there is a shorter 10m variant that may feel easier
dr_shred - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:
I would say it's 6a+ or so. Perhaps someone could get up it on their first day of climbing - but I'd guess most climbers who've been going once-a-week for a year would find it almost impossible to get to the top without rests (and make the not-insignificant final dyno!).
Post edited at 13:43
Graeme Alderson on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:

The 10m version is the same, just shorter
Graeme Alderson on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:

But AWCC is missing the top 50cm or so, that would obviously make it more like 6a+ ;-)
jwa - on 10 Dec 2013
The one at Awesome Walls Sheffield isn't an official IFSC speed wall. It's about 30cm short or something silly like that. Don't imagine that makes a huge difference though to the grade or route itself.

jwa - on 10 Dec 2013
You beat me to it Graeme.
r0x0r.wolfo - on 10 Dec 2013
Really?? That's interesting. Why can't they add an extra 30cm? ;).
jwa - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:
I imagine it's positioned in such a way that it's limited by the height of the ceiling. If they'd moved it further out from the wall then they could have gained some more ceiling height.
r0x0r.wolfo - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to jwa:

True but it's only 15m, and its slightly overhanging. Would have thought they'd scrape it. They must have used a 1m instead of a 1.5m panel at the end making it 50cm short.
Graeme Alderson on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to jwa:

The holds are in the correct place but the buzzer isn't
r0x0r.wolfo - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:

You mean the board with 'hit me' written on it ;).
deacondeacon - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Seems strange to go to all the bother of having the speed wall fitted unless they were going to do it properly.
I found it quite good fun for the half hour we were on it but doubt I'd ever go on it again .
r0x0r.wolfo - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:

Yeah, I have been on it. I reckoned about a 6a+ myself. Of course when you climb a 6a+ that's quickly climbed with long moves and dynamically a few times... I think if it was easier, 5+ or whatever it would be harder to climb quickly. Saw a few new climbers struggle on it saturday and take rests etc.

Seen someone say 6b, maybe it is with the extra 50cm dyno at the top.
Jayboy - on 15 Dec 2013
Does that mean if somebody sets a new world record its invalid?

jwa - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Jayboy:

On the Awesome Walls Sheffield wall, yes.
rallymania - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:

i think the one at ratho is 6a+ from memory
Simos on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to rallymania:

Are the holds pretty much jugs?
r0x0r.wolfo - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Simos:

Not really, they are good holds but not like full on incut jugs.
Mr Trebus - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:

From memory the sequence of moves are repeated three times over the route.

I have seen a few of the youth team climbers at Ratho doing sub 10 secs, which is impressive. The record is something mad like 6 secs.

Al
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Donnie - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:

I tried the start without a rope at Ratho a year or so go. I thought it was beyond so I didn't bother roping up. I was climbing around 6A+ on site at the time.

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