/ Ubley Warren Bouldering

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The Ivanator - on 10 Dec 2013

I'm going to be in Somerset on Saturday and thought I might check the Ubley Warren problems out. Anyone got experience of the area and could tell me what landings are like (is a mat a must?), also opinions on whether it is worth visiting for a few hours - generally I reckon Limestone is not the best bouldering medium, but happy to be set right on that.
Any problems that are recommended?
I've seen the nifty topo on here (good work)
Post edited at 15:30
remus - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

I havent been there in 6 years so take the following with a pinch of salt.

From what I remember the landings are ok, generally flattish grass. A bouldering mat would probably be handy as some of the problems are a little high, and of course to keep your feet dry. that being said the problems are almost universally very easy so a mat is certainly not essential. Id say it's worth an evening visit if you're in the area.

If you fancy something a little harder croscombe is worth a visit, though it might be a bit dingy at this time of year. There's also a spot of bouldering to be had in cheddar, the most accessible bit being the short buttress just left of stepped wall.
The Ivanator - on 10 Dec 2013
In reply to remus:

Thanks for the reply. Yup, hoping I won't fall off as grades look straightforward, but I am capable of making simple problems look like V8 nightmares! ;-)
Would quite like to get away from the boy racer highway through the gorge itself. When you mention about keeping feet dry is that a general point or do you recall the base as a boggy mess?
remus - on 11 Dec 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Keeping feet dry was just a general point. Don't remember it being particularly boggy.
deepstar - on 11 Dec 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: I visit Ubley Warren quite regularly and Remus is correct about the place, generally easy but fun problems.It is a bit shady especially in "The Pit" and an old towel to wipe your shoes is recommended but a mat would be handy.The best place leave your car to park is down the lane behind Charterhouse Activity Centre where there is a small car park, as parking on the road in Velvet Bottom is a bit of a temptation for thieves.

The Ivanator - on 11 Dec 2013
In reply to deepstar:

Thanks for the reply (especially tip re. parking).
wurzelinzummerset on 11 Dec 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:
It'll be damp after the forecast rain on Friday, although you can do some of the easier problems in walking boots wet or not. I think it's more suited to a dry summer's evening.
The Pylon King on 11 Dec 2013
In reply to wurzelinzummerset:

yeah unfortunately is forecast to piss it down Fri so a lot of Mendip crags will be damp :(
The Ivanator - on 11 Dec 2013
In reply to The Pylon King and wurzelinzummerset:
Aye, Friday is looking wetter and Saturday less sunny than forecast earlier in the week. Still might take a wander down there, scope it out and see if anything is dry enough to play on. It's a nice place for a walk at the very worst!

I haven't had any partner offers from my text yet Alan, so if Goblin (maybe Avon) is a better bet for dry rock and you are free then that would be better than damp bouldering - though I have developed a strange obsession with checking Ubley Warren out!

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wurzelinzummerset on 11 Dec 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:
Ivan, I'll send you a text.

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