UKC

Hello, I need one of these in the new year, I understand that what I need but the ideal machine required isn't necessarily needed for the next couple of jobs, so something budget would work initially or even a loan machine. So just open question to forum users who have experience with tig.

I have on and off over 25 years use of mig, plus use of gas, oxy-acetylene and oxy propane.

In reply to johnj:

What sort of school did you go to? When I was a kid 'Tig' or 'Stuck in the mud' didn't involve oxy-acetylene burners!

In reply to Troy Tempest:

Priory comprehensive, Lundwood, sink estate school, filled with teenage punk glue sniffers, rough as f*ck, and quite difficult to get through.

However as it was back in the day the and at the end of the growth of the local coal industry, metalwork department was excellent we were sand casting with alu, from age 11, brazing copper, black smiterey, etc. I got onto Oxy-acetylene in the 90's If you want to read a little history from my family have a look here:

http://simpsonandsons.net/history/

In reply to johnj:

I have just bought a 130 amp inverter scratch tig set, this http://www.inverterfusion.co.uk/130ma/ , not the cheapest but for low amps steel it is the best option for what I want (bringing VW camper back to life) British made too.
One you want hf starting and AC capability it starts getting ££££. Delivered with a tig torch and a an auto darkeing helmet was £450

The thermal arc sets are supposed to be good at the budget end. I steered well clear of the cheap Chinese sets on ebay. The Inverter Fusion set is British Made would you believe!

We have a giant BOC transformer set at work so I just wanted something that was small and portable

In reply to woolsack:
Cheers Woolley, obviously I have a helmet. yeah like wise first job is t4 California Westfalia syncro, is a british plate but left hooker (rare import), currently as shell in roll over jig, need new inner wheel arches inner sills front engine bay panels. I've spoke to my mate at VW dealer and all panels are available at realistic pricing on special order, so am cutting repair sections from genuine panelling and seam welding and spot welding to factory spec. Mig or gas would just put too much heat into the job and cause panel distortion. Currently old bus has about 1.5mm out of line on one panel gap in worse case. Also I need to make 2 x stainless manifolds, and 1 x stainless system. And I get a little bonus out of this job, I'll build my second mtb frame long travel 853 650b

Does that set listed work with a pedal?

In reply to johnj:

it's only a scratch start set. Basically it's an MMA inverter set which you add a tig torch set to. To get to pedals and switch starting they start getting expensive

In reply to woolsack:
Right cheers this is the only real question I need to ask, have you found there are any real disadvantages to this set up for what you need to do? because as soon as you ask the question on a welders forum someone who doesn't really know what they're really talking about or perhaps mis-understands your question tells you to buy a expensive rig. So no trouble for me, if I spend two weeks welding scrap together to get the settings spot on with Tig, before touching the bus that's easy doesn't cost me anything just time, like a choice between shooting the shit on ukc or playing with power, no brainer for me really.

In reply to johnj:
Hi John, what do you need, AC or DC and how big? EDIT: just read the thread which answers some of that.

If you don't foresee aluminium work in your future then DC machines are a lot cheaper. I bought a single phase 200A digital AC/DC (R-Tech I think) machine a few years back, sadly it's sat doing nothing and needing a service (sticky gas solenoid) in the Isle of Man at the moment. It's total overkill for most jobs but gives unlimited control of the current. I don't think I've ever really needed to turn it up past 120A nor use half of the settings and I'm not sure the (non-cooled) torch would last long at the higher power levels. One thing I would say, AC or DC is get one with a modulating pedal and learn to use it, it's much more versatile for the sort of one off jobs you do as a fabricator. Tig is probably one of those things that's hard to master but pretty easy to pick up, you'll be doing good DC work in a few minutes if you're generally familiar with metalworking. Aluminium, especially thin sheet took a lot of practice.

jk

In reply to johnj:

I use various Tig sets most of the time (I should be using one right now rathing than having a coffee break!).
Scratch sets are a pain in my opinion as the tip keeps getting burnt on. Lift-off is far better. hf better still.
For big bench work a pedal is great BUT a)expensive b) really difficult to use when your grovelling on your knees. The alternative is a torch with a current control wheel on it which is what I use, need a more delicate touch than I seem to be able to achieve though!
Water cooling is unesscessary for shorter runs under around 120A and really expensive.
For finish work you really want adjustable downslope but for welding up a VW I doubt it matters.
Auto gas is good but not so important for occassional welding, start working all day and you notice the difference in gas consumption.

Make sure spare parts are available, the circuit boards and relays are prone to failing on cheapo ones, I´ve scrapped two because of this. Better sets have all the electrics fitted to a hollow aluminium heat sink and the cooling air goes through the middle, this saves the enormous flash and blown fuses from grinding dust!

Personally for welding cars and such like I use the MIG anyway.

In reply to jimtitt:
The downside of MIG is grinding everything. There should be a great deal less of that with the TIG on thin panels.

I haven't used my scratch set yet so I don't know how much I'll hate grinding the electrode back relative to the BOC set

Hi guys cheers for the answers, 95% steel really, van work is always in jig tooling so effectively bench work, plus steel tubing, I'd prefer a pedal from the start if possible. Also best value for money is what I'm looking if there is any recommendations? I've been told I should be looking at around 600 quid, it's going to be a 5 hour per week job at most as is a part in a much bigger process, mig is fine for much on cars, but this job needs to be show standard, so I've spoke with a lot of people now about this, and the majority view seems to say tig, the process in itself will be pretty straight forwards to master, just lock my self in the shed for a few months.

In reply to johnj:

Whatever happened to Tiggs?

In reply to felt:

I know I was hoping that Tiggs may call by also, long time no see!

In reply to johnj:
iv got a parweld 161 inverter great little machine dual voltage for on site runs off a generator unlike most cheap units and burns 3.2 mma all day long. tig is lift arc which is better than cheaper scratch start machines. £290 on auction site and the 160 model 240v only is £215 cant reccomend these high enough might be worth looking into there higher more tig specific models.

In reply to davy_boy:

Cheers Davy Boy, will look into that one.