/ Peak Area Climbers Social Club

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john horscroft on 14 Sep 2003
Otherwise Known as the BMC Peak Area Meeting. This time boys and girls, apart from the usual informative stuff about access and contentious discussion of the great issues of the day, we have a BIG TREAT.

Sam Whittaker is doing a slide show. Recently returned, he will be scaring us shitless with tales of derring do on the Big Walls of Peru. He will also cover some of the latest Peak Grit lunacy. It's bound to be a good'n so get along and have a chat and a beer. (And some free sarnies)

Oh, yeah, the venue:

The Grouse Inn, near Froggat Edge, 7.15pm on Thursday 18 September.
Simon - on 14 Sep 2003
In reply to john horscroft:

If anyone can give me a lift back to Sheff, I'll bob along John seeing as no one wants to be your friend!

;o)

Sounds a good one this....U going Bun?

Si
Ropeboy - on 14 Sep 2003
In reply to Simon:

Hi Simon, I'll be going can give you a lift back.

Are you okay getting out there too?

Anyone else need a lift there or back?

J :-)
Michael Hunt on 15 Sep 2003 - host213-122-66-82.in-addr.btopenworld.com
In reply to john horscroft:
One of the areas up for discussion is Stanton Moor and Stanton Moor Quarry which are due to be partly dug up in the near future. Has anyone climbed there recently and is it worth the BMC / climbers getting involved in the protest?

Any views on climbing in the quarry or bouldering on the moor?
Simon - on 15 Sep 2003
In reply to Ropeboy:

Lift there too may be req John if ok?

Cheers

S
Chris the Tall - on 15 Sep 2003
In reply to Ropeboy:
Definately going and might be on the scrounge for a lift - will let you know
Ropeboy - on 15 Sep 2003
In reply to Chris the Tall and Simon:

Can probably give you a lift there and back if req'd no problem.

You two live relatively close by.

Keep in touch and we'll sort something out on Wednesday and/or Thursday.

J :-)

Simon - on 16 Sep 2003
In reply to Ropeboy:

Cheers J

I'll speak 2 U Weds as I may have a lift. Or ...I may need another seat if ok?

I'm just going for a free Sally dinner!

;O)

si
Jane Livingstone on 17 Sep 2003 - host213-122-70-182.in-addr.btopenworld.com
Have heard that Stanton Moor Quarry is a dank hole with little of interest? Perhaps quarrying will improve the venue??
Ropeboy - on 17 Sep 2003
In reply to Simon:

Okay, let us know cause I need to know if I need to take my car or just get a lift with Mell.

I was fancying trying to get a quick boulder before the meeting if you're interested.

Chris, you up for a quick boulder before-hand? I don't really think we've got time for routes.

J :-)
Simon - on 17 Sep 2003
In reply to Ropeboy:

Where m8? Grouse boulders?

si
Chris the Tall - on 17 Sep 2003
In reply to Ropeboy:
Sounds good - what time are you thinking of leaving Sheff ?
Gordon Stainforth - on 17 Sep 2003
In reply to Jane Livingstone:
> Have heard that Stanton Moor Quarry is a dank hole with little of interest? Perhaps quarrying will improve the venue??

Hope you're joking! Stanton Moor is a beautiful location of enormous archaelogical interest, and the proposed enormous expansion of the quarry is totally unacceptable on aesthetic, cultural and ecological grounds.
Adders - on 17 Sep 2003
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: im coming along tomorrow night with Simon, i hope nobody minds.

looking forward to sams pics ( and sarnies )

can give anyone a lift to and from Sheffield if needed.
Michael Hunt on 17 Sep 2003 - host213-122-72-253.in-addr.btopenworld.com
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Yes, I agree the moor is good for all sorts of reasons (bouldering, archeology, etc.) but:
1. Is the quarry of value to climbers? and

2. Should the local BMC get involved in the anti quarrying campaign? If so how and to what extent.
Simon - on 17 Sep 2003
In reply to Michael Hunt:

I don't think they will win if they do Mike!

See you tomorrow night (can i mention belay stakes? at the top of you know where?)

Cheers

si
Michael Hunt on 17 Sep 2003 - host213-122-72-253.in-addr.btopenworld.com
In reply to Simon:
Bang them in on your way to the grouse!

Yes please do mention your belay stakes at...........
Simon - on 17 Sep 2003
In reply to Ropeboy:

Hi

For me John, go with Mellicous, Adders wants to boogie along & I'll go with her rather than you having to take 2 cars...

Where U bouldering?

S
Gordon Stainforth - on 17 Sep 2003
In reply to Michael Hunt:
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth)
> Yes, I agree the moor is good for all sorts of reasons (bouldering, archeology, etc.) but:
> 1. Is the quarry of value to climbers? and
>
> 2. Should the local BMC get involved in the anti quarrying campaign? If so how and to what extent.

As I understand it, the issue has extremely little to do with the quarry as a climbing venue, and all to do with wrecking the environment. So I agree that this only very indirectly involves the BMC. But I do think all sporting and leisure bodies should protest about anything that is going to seriously damage the Peak landscape.

It could be that the quarry is however a better climbing venue than rumour has it. But I don't know, because I've never been in there to have a look.

Offwidth - on 17 Sep 2003
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Stanton Moor is a lovely place for a walk and a boulder. The quarry has a few starred routes.

In reply to John Horscroft

Oddly enough our climbing club will be meeting elsewhere on Thursday evenings again as usual. If the BMC committee are so incapable of using diaries that they must have a regular day why must it always be a Thursday which is by far the best club day to meet for sorting out weekend climbing possibilities??
ads.ukclimbing.com
Kipper - on 17 Sep 2003
In reply to Offwidth:
> ..why must it always be a Thursday ..

I think you've done this one before, and I'm sure they had a vote recently and decided that Thursday was still the best night fot them.

What about making your club night the Peak Area meeting on those (4?) nights which it clashes? I'm sure they'd love the additional numbers.
Ropeboy - on 17 Sep 2003
In reply to Chris the Tall:

Sorry for the late reply I our server has been down today.

The earlier the better, 17:30/18:00 ish.

Will email you my work number and give us a ring to maybe sort something out.

J :-)
Ropeboy - on 17 Sep 2003
In reply to Simon:

> Where U bouldering?
>
> S

Somewhere like Burbage N or Higgar where we can get lots done in a short period of time.

J :-)
Michael Hunt on 18 Sep 2003 - host213-122-198-165.in-addr.btopenworld.com
In reply to Offwidth:
The 60 or so people who regularly turn out have voted to continue with Thursdays. As there are only 5 meetings a year, you could ask your club to turn out at the BMC meeting instead?

However as a special there will be a Saturday night meeting on 25th October at Longlands Cafe. Here there will be a chance to discuss Peak Area Access issues, debate the future of the BMC, eat a free buffet and be entertained by Andy Kirkpatrick.
Adders - on 18 Sep 2003
In reply to Ropeboy: will be going to higgar ( ouch tho my fingers hurt from last nights bouldering) or grouse boulders. head from sheffield 5.45ish


what am i driving on other thread: Golf, paid for from RIP other car ;)
Ropeboy - on 18 Sep 2003
In reply to Adders:

Grouse boulders sound cool and Simon seems keen to go there, hopefully see you up there.

J :-)
Chris the Tall - on 18 Sep 2003
In reply to Ropeboy:
Never heard of the grouse boulders, but I'm always happy to try somewhere new. 5-30ish sounds good to me, will call you later, but I'm afraid I don't possess a mat.
Simon - on 18 Sep 2003
In reply to Chris the Tall, Jon

Off work at 4, so See you at the boulders with addders, there is some good stuff there & good for an hour or so,

U planning to be late for meeting?

We will be (as usual)

Sorry Mike...

s
Michael Hunt on 18 Sep 2003 - host213-122-193-180.in-addr.btopenworld.com
In reply to Simon:
No free sandwiches and chips for people who come late!
Adders - on 18 Sep 2003
In reply to Michael Hunt: ahh go on! please :)
Simon - on 18 Sep 2003
In reply to Adders:

I have a preasant to bribe Sally, we'll be alright, don't listen to the big bad mean old man from that Foolow place..
Michael Hunt on 18 Sep 2003 - host213-122-193-180.in-addr.btopenworld.com
In reply to Adders:

Alright I give in!
Adders - on 18 Sep 2003
In reply to Michael Hunt: thanks! i'll be the one rolling in at dark with the bleeding finger tips :) looking forward to tonight.
Offwidth - on 18 Sep 2003
In reply to Kipper:

Just because I've done things before doesnt mean I'm going to shut up and let go of it ;-)


In reply to Micheal Hunt

I really think the local BMC committees need some more comment and input from the many major users from outside the immediate areas and for most of them its a real hassle for them to make early evening mid-week meets; and of the mid-week days Thursday is the worst, as its when any self respecting climber is sorting out and planning the weekend. I'm greatful that the weekend meet has been arranged for the end of October but Longlands cafe is perhaps a little pesssmistic for a venue in terms of its capacity.

Despite my moans about Thursdays perhaps the best way to deal with outside comment is probably using sites like this to gauge feelings rather than just relying on the voting preferences of dedicated regulars to determine policy. The vast majority that cannot make the meeting could have good ideas or in the worst case a very different average view. How about encouraging a pre-debate here or on the BMC website with voting rights retained as normal at the meet?

I accept the democratic decision made for the time of the Peak meet but it must be obvious that those who can turn up on Thursdays will of course be there to vote for that night; people that cant make Thursdays wont be there to vote. I think the chances of persuading my or any other club to change venue, involving paying to sit in a minibus in rush hour traffic to get to Sheffield to listen to a BMC committee is minimal. Some individual members are 'mad' enough to want to go, but at the beginning of the year we in student clubs need to be in the usual club venue to recruit, breif and get to know new members; in any case, as a club official in charge of the library and equipment, my presence is certainly required.
john horscroft on 18 Sep 2003
In reply to Offwidth: Sorry mate. You make some good points but they all fail to convince me ultimately for one very good reason. I organised a weekend meet last year which had months of publicity, free beer, free food, two slide shows and a tasty raffle. None and I repeat NONE of the usual suspects turned up. We had a good response from those we had seen at the crag during the day but most of those who moan about the thursday meeting were notable by there absence. So there you go, thursday it is.........
Simon - on 18 Sep 2003
In reply to john horscroft:

go John, go John....

re: free beer.

I can't remember why I didn't go. Must have been of the country to miss a bit a free booze like....

Any chance of persuading Sally & Mark to go gratis 2nite?

S

Offwidth - on 18 Sep 2003
In reply to john horscroft:

I apologised months in advance for being absent from the Roaches meet (my friend invited me to the dolomites, where I had never been before, for glorious mountain multipitch climbing and Via Ferratae) and suffered much (deserved) ribbing on this site with respect to barbeques and beer as a result.

At the previous meet at the Hathersage Scout Hut (the one I think you refer to in your post) I was there and brought along about 8 others including two of the international visitors you were proud of afterwards. I got fairly pissed on Landlord, nearly sick on sandwiches, nearly choked laughing in the Grimer/Kirkpatrick show, won a bennie hat in the raffle (a great trophy for a trad boy) and was humiliated in the impromptu quiz at the end. It was the best 'committee meeting' I've ever been to and people were mad to have missed it and you deserve a BMC medal for organising parties if they give them out.

So Thursday it may be but not because I didnt turn up and enjoy it.
martin k on 18 Sep 2003 - ACBA207A.ipt.aol.com
In reply to Offwidth: i think that the simple point here is that it's only five thursdays a year, which are well advertised in advance. if people don't turn up to these few evenings, they really (in all honesty) obviously can't be bothered about the meeting in the first place, but like a good moan from time to time.
Offwidth - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to martin k:

I think my point is that getting to a pub in the peak for 7:15pm mid-week is highly impractical for most of the working population of the UK. The BMC complains that people cant be bothered then we have a vote for a meeting time that only locals can sensibly attend. Having a saturday meet once a year is a good step in the right direction, the one I attended seem to have comparitively few regulars (aside from the commitee) and a lot of outsiders. If this BMC page on Rocktalk had existed then I think the extra advertising would have doubled the number of attendees. Utilising a web forum to allow input from interested parties from The Scilly Isles to the Shetlands or even, god forbid, foreign climbers would be be another improvement. The peak district is an internationally significant climbing area and input to issues should at least try to reflect that.
Simon - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Offwidth:

The turn out last night spoke for itself. It would have been difficult to fit many more in.......

It was a good & informative meet...

...despite the fact I was grabbed to chat when the food came out & ended up left with ONE chip.....

tut.....

si

Gordon Stainforth - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Simon:

Yes it was excellent (at least 60 people? - tho more turned up halfway thru I think for Sam Whittaker's talk.)
Back room at the Grouse filled to capacity.
Duncan Bourne - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Simon:
would that be the chip I gave you?
Horse on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Duncan Bourne:

So what was discussed, aside from a clear shortage of chips.
Chris the Tall - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
No we turned up late cos we'd been bouldering and lost track of time!
Sorry !
graeme alderson on 19 Sep 2003 - 213.2.193.162 whois?
In reply to Simon: it was you that grabbed me to get a light, I missed out on the food as well!
Simon - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Horse:

No shortage of chips. Mr Bounrne sat at a table & was greeted with 2 huge bowels of chips, started to quaff..

..his fault...

There were maily acees issued raised Re quarrying at stanton & Longstone edge. also Yarncliffe re; access & problems & belay stakes at Tegness. The buxton railway thang was discussed & horseshoe quarry...

Too much to remember, but look out for minutes

In reply to Gordon:

I saw you & intended to say Hi & chat bout pictures etc...

next time eh?

Cheers

s
john horscroft on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Offwidth:
Oops............
Gordon Stainforth - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Simon:
> In reply to Gordon:
>
> I saw you & intended to say Hi & chat bout pictures etc...
>
> next time eh?

Yeah, next time. Think I saw you - not 100 per cent sure what you look like. Pleasantly surprised how many people I knew there.
Kipper - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> .. Pleasantly surprised how many people I knew there.

Or how many you didn't :-)

Michael Hunt on 19 Sep 2003 - host213-122-168-112.in-addr.btopenworld.com
In reply to Offwidth:
Thanks and message heard loud and clear. We will continue with Thursday nights and at 7.15!

However will try and arrange a weekend consultation in addition.

Will try and publicise agenda items on rocktalk though frankly didn't get much response to the points raised about Stanton Moor Quarry this time except from Gordon Stainforth.

If we have a saturday night session next year, when will you be available?

Why is Longlands too small? Apparently it can hold 80 (bit tight though).

If you want to respond, best email me direct as I'm away to Spain today.
Gordon Stainforth - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Kipper:

Yes, and that! :-)
Simon - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Michael Hunt:

Show off....

room for one more in your case?

Have a great time & well done on a successful meet Mr Chair...

s
Offwidth - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Michael Hunt:

Low expectations is the problem. If advertised properly and Mr Kirkpatrick providing the ents Longlands will be packed (The capacity wont include the space taken by the speaker and the gap to the front row if people at the back can see).

The Tegness belay stakes are presumably ( I hope) for the North Quarry (all the routes in Pinnacle Quarry have fairly straightforward belays).
Simon - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Offwidth:

you presume right. It will be all down in the new guide.

s
Offwidth - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Simon:

On the subject of Tegness I hope the three (4?) cracks on the left side get detailed seperately this time as they are really good. The left (twin) one is more like VS than severe though. Spider crack is a real gem for fans of hand jamming routes and the Classic Diff pinnacle is always fun and goes even in the rain. Oh and The Bridge must be the softest Severe in the peak.
Offwidth - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Offwidth:

Sorry the good Tegness VS jamming crack is "Fingers". Spider Crack is a web infested VS at Wharncliffe...too much good weather and too many routes this summer!
Simon - on 19 Sep 2003
In reply to Offwidth:

Sorry but for space reasons (I assume they are 4 cracks?) will stay as they are VD-S

Bridge may change to HVD, but in its current state is S

Thanks for the feedback mate...

Si

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