UKC

ive done most of my climbing in NZ. so I wanted to know can you sport/trad climb in England in dec/jan/feb.

is it just too cold to climb outside at this time of year

thanks simon

In reply to Ban1:

Rather than seasons, it's almost a day by day decision. During the winter months we tend to get two main types of weather: cold and clear or dull and damp

It also depends on the crag, some like Tremadog or Beaston Tor are fine throughout the year whereas areas like Cheedale are summer (or at least late spring onwards) crags. Places like Malham are year round (even during downpours) yet just round the corner is Gordale Scar which is very seasonal - read that as summer.

I've climbed in t-shirts on even quite high mountain crags during feb and been in a duvet during July on valley crags.

ALC

In reply to Ban1:

Likewise sea-cliffs can be great winter climbing spots. I've been out in a t-shirt on Cornish granite of late.

In reply to Ban1:

Gritsone is the best winter and all year around rock (trad) as long as it is not actually raining. Malham is good for winter sport climbing. There are a few popular winter sport (limestone) venues in Yorkshire and I believe Portland has a sport route or two, good for the winter.

In reply to Ban1:

Yeah, definitely lots to be done through the winter months. Broadly speaking you have to search around a bit more and be a bit more wary of conditions but you can usually find something to do if you don't mind travelling a bit.

As others have said gritstone is pretty reliable if there's a bit of a breeze blowing, and the sea cliffs can provide some top notch entertainment if you catch them at the right time. Be wary of north facing crags and anything with a lot of tree cover, generally they don't get enough sun during the winter to properly dry out.

In reply to Ban1:

Personally, I only go bouldering in winter. I find it really hard to have any fun at all doing trad in winter, and equally hard to have fun sport climbing regardless of the season.

I think spending a chunk of time bouldering is good for your climbing, and for me it can be as rewarding as trad (ok, only occasionally) - particularly days climbing a high volume of highball/micro-route type things (I find working the same 2 moves all day about as fun as going sport climbing).

For me in winter the days are too short and it's too cold for trad, and since gritstone lends itself so well to bouldering - and the hard stuff is impossible in summer anyway - it seems like the logical decision.

Can you trad climb in the middle of winter? Yes. Is it fun? Matter of opinion.

In reply to Jon Stewart:



Depends where you are I think Jon. Gritstone edges are cold this time of year of course, but on sunny days, south facing sea cliffs this far south can be genuinely really warm this time of year, sun-traps that they are. As soon as the wind gets up you've had it though.

In reply to Ban1:

It's all a question of weather, not the climate. If you get a dry spell of a day or two and then get a sunny day with a north wind it can be very pleasant on a south-facing crag. Of course, coming from the S. Hem. this will take a bit of thinking out for you! Ironically, the milder weather in winter is less favourable - typically it's damper, and it comes with a southerly wind which is the same direction that the sun comes from, so much less likely to prove enjoyable. Hope that makes sense!

In reply to Rog Wilko:

so Swanage then? im based in Herts anyways so not to far.
hows the peak district, does it dry quick

In reply to Ban1:

Yes, the Peak gritstone dries quickly. In winter Froggatt edge is a good bet. It also has a great range of grades. It is probably closer than Swanage for you too.

In reply to Cake:

Yes, I used to live in Herts, Froggatt and the southern peak are easier to access than Swanage.

In reply to Ban1:

No doubt Swanage and Portland fit the bill. But as others have said the Peak District has lots of suitable spots. To be fair, most of the gritstone crags aren't too good with a north wind as they face west. A sunny day with an east wind, though, great! Lawrencefield is also a nice sheltered spot with lots of sun potential.
It's also worth thinking about some of the limestone crags in the Peak. Wild Cat can be nice in the afternoon and Beeston Tor is a well-known sun trap. It's not a fantastic crag, but Aldery Cliff is also very sheltered & south facing.
But to save wasted journeys you do need to do your weather homework.

In reply to LakesWinter:

As you say, Froggatt and some of the friendlier eastern edges are a very safe bet from Hertfordshire on fine days in the winter. There are a surprising number of days, even in a cold winter, when the rock on Froggatt is dry and sunny, and out of the wind. (Belaying at the top can be a bit Arctic, though, with a wind from the east, so you don't want to faff around.)