UKC

Why is it that non pro climbers set a different set of rules, a lit of how to be pure when climbing.

Like Onsight or not at all.

You can only climb onsight even if its at your limit, top roping... i.e head pointing and working a route is for noobs and pro's only.

Don't tell me the beta It ruins it for me...

Even though most of our biggest achievements were with a little beta and nearly every video has the pro's sharing beta.

Placing a starting piece if gear is cheating.

I lose count of number of trad vids that have a piece of gear place 10 meters up before the climber goes up. and in sport climbing we invented clip sticks purely for this.


Theres more I'm sure you could all list some, but climbers are a bizzare bunch. how do we improve our onsight skill if we don't work things that arr too hard for us or accept a little advice from others.

I know this isn't everyone but the most die hard average climber seems to punish her/himself in this manner.

In reply to Lukem6:

They arent rules, it depends on how you want to climb as an individual.
Ignore everyone else.

I bet 30% of the lead o/s claims on ukc are actually dogged!
(Guilty as charged!)

"how do we improve our onsight skill if we don't work things that arr too hard for us or accept a little advice from others"

Fall off more......its fun

In reply to Lukem6:


They don't.


You can do what you like. Who is telling you what you can and can't do? Why are you listening?


If you want to onsight something, true.


Because showing the climber going up, placing the gear, then downcliming to rest and warm up for 10 minutes is very dull. So that bit probably won't make the edit. Just like the dozens of failed attempts won't before an amazing redpoint. Films show the interesting subset of what happened.


National Talk Like a Pirate day was a few months ago. And we do. And we do. The question is, why don't you?

In reply to Lukem6:


that first bit of gear will normally have been place on site, and then down climbed from for a rest. its still onsite as long as you don't fall off.

In reply to Lukem6:

If you are a pro climber, money talks. And they way to make money for your sponsors is to be in the news. And they way to get in the news is to climb very difficult routes. And if the impressiveness of the route out-weights the methods by which it was climbed, no one really minds, especially the paymasters.

In reply to Lukem6:




You onsight near or at your limit...and learn

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Na, that’s far too slow a process, onsight just a tiny bit past your limit, that’s when you really learn, or not!