/ What was memorable about 2013 for you?

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Rog Wilko on 16 Dec 2013
It was quite a year climatically, with a good winter extended into April (even in the fickle Lakes) followed by one of the best summers we've had since the last century. So what will you remember in the years to come?
For me it was ticking off three routes I've lusted after for a long time:
1. Raven Crag gully in great winter conditions on a perfect cold sunny Easter Monday, with no-one up ahead holding us up.
2. A long desired ascent of Mur y Niwl with a good friend in a great spell of weather.
3. Being coaxed and cajoled up Skink at Mt Arapiles by daughter Zoe, a route I've for years put off (in a cowardly fashion) leading till I was too decrepit to do it at the sharp end. A great memory (though still wishing I'd led it 7 or 8 years back).
Snoweider - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Passing my winter ML in a brutal storm.

The best summer in the west of Scotland I've ever known. Too many happy memories on the hill to list and half of them I was getting paid for which didn't seem right somehow.
Kevin Woods - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

I guess I've had a great year, really, really memorable.

First of all, really breaking into hard bouldering for the first time, getting my grade from font 7a to 7c in a few months and the associated enjoyment of realising a lot of hard things that are possible. Now tickling 8a, I'm hoping to get it before the new year, but starting to doubt it's gonna happen (there's still time!)

And secondly, (after a hard start of torrential rain, snow, etc) spending an entire summer out on the Munros. Was going to do this last summer, so supremely lucky to have postponed it a year and given myself the driest (if sometimes overwhelmingly hot) conditions I can remember.
Pursued by a bear - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko: Retirement. Never done it before...

...it's rather good.

T.

climbwhenready - on 16 Dec 2013
2013: Started to climb and realised what a great hobby I now have.
wilkie14c - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

I've had a great year kicked off with a new route on Skye back in Jan. Got married in the Lake district in March, went to the status quo reunion gig in April and had 5 weeks in the USA. Climbing wise quantity has suffered this year but made up for in sheer quality. A bit of night climbing last winter, lots of bouldering in Joshua tree, ADOWH on a perfect summers day and organising the UKC summer peak meet which went really well and a late october smash and grab of Spectre on the Grochen and Looning the tube on the slate.
A great year, bring on 2014.

Well done on Raven crag gully, its a cracking route when its in, top icefall is ace!
alastairbegley - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

I missed most of the summer in the UK due to injury however my highlights have to include

1) Cuillin ridge traverse in winter, best thing I have ever done! http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2013/04/winter-traverse-cuillin-ridge/

2) An absolutely fantastic winter season which was ended perfectly by (1) and included many classics including Minus Two, Orion Face, Point Five & Tower Ridge - http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2013/04/unbeatable-winter-season/

3) A great two week trip to the alps - http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2013/08/weeks-valais-alps/
wilkie14c - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Foxy:

Wow thats some tick list you've done there, great effort!
Choss on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Nothing Spectacular to report Grades or whatever. But i have Fought through a Long lay off after a bad fall, and years of mental Health problems, to regear and get Back on the rock in 2013 Its who i was, and Underneath it all its who i am, and im glad to be Back :-)

Just happy for every Opportunity now :-D

I have set Myself a goal for 2014. To do my south west sub extreme sea stack List. Any offers to join me on any of them greatly Appreciated.

smithg on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Felt like a low year on quantity, but some highlights.

Hornli, solo in August still makes me smile.
Rog Wilko on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Kevin Woods: Accuse me of stereotypical thinking if you will, but I think it's both counter-intuitive and absolutely great that an obviously very keen boulderer is also spending half his summer plodding up Munros. Just brilliant. Wondering if you also partake of all those things between these extremes!

Rog Wilko on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Pursued by a bear:

> Retirement. Never done it before...

> ...it's rather good.

> T.

It is good, isn't it? Do you think any active climber has ever regretted retiring?
Rog Wilko on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to climbwhenready:

> 2013: Started to climb and realised what a great hobby I now have.

And you're only 28! I'm relishing for you all those amazing adventures you'll have before you reach my advanced age. Grab every opportunity!
Blue Straggler - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Climbing-wise nothing really. An onsight of Croton Oil is probably the high point. But I did add five metres' depth to my freediving personal bests in the three "mainstream" depth disciplines (constant weight, constant weight with no fins, and free immersion), so that was nice
Rog Wilko on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to wilkie14c:

>
>
> Well done on Raven crag gully, its a cracking route when its in, top icefall is ace!


It didn't disappoint.
Rog Wilko on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Foxy:

I'm gobsmacked! And to think I hadn't even discovered climbing when I was your age. Envy isn't a pleasant emotion....
Rog Wilko on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Choss:

That's a really cheery and cheering story. All power to your elbow (and all those other bits you need for climbing). I find there's nothing like looking back over great climbing days to make me feel more positive if I'm feeling a bit down.
Rog Wilko on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to smithg:

Hornli - never got there. Too late now :((
climbingpixie - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

It's been a year of quality over quantity for me. I've only done half the number of routes this year than last but what I have done has been brilliant.

Highlights for me have been:
1) A five day trip to Wales in the hot spell and getting to climb on Cloggy eventually!
2) A mad dash Gable trip after a friend's wedding - sodded off at about 9pm, hared up to the Lakes, chucked the tent up at the top of Honister at midnight, packed it away at 6am and headed up for one of the best single day's climbing I've ever had. Walked back over the tops and had victory chips in Settle on the way home.
3) Redpointing Farniente at the Gorges du Tarn on the last morning of our trip, with literally only enough time for one crack at it (after getting the clips in) before we had to drive to the airport.

It's also been a memorable one for me for cycling - riding my first century, dropping out of the Fred Whitton with hypothermia (that one was memorable in a not so good way) then grinding my way around the White Rose Classic in the middle of the heatwave.
Rog Wilko on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to climbingpixie:

> > 2) A mad dash Gable trip after a friend's wedding - sodded off at about 9pm, hared up to the Lakes, chucked the tent up at the top of Honister at midnight, packed it away at 6am and headed up for one of the best single day's climbing I've ever had. Walked back over the tops and had victory chips in Settle on the way home.


That's just the sort of tale I love! Wondering what you did on Gable
Nick Russell on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

My first winter season. Long weekend with Foxy (he really was the man to know last winter!) in which we climbed Orion Direct, Tower Ridge and Point 5 on consecutive days.

The memorable trad days have been the adventurous routes... Mercury Direct (Carn Gowla), American Beauty (Lundy), Crow (Cheddar), The Equator (Avon Gorge).

I've 'discovered' sport climbing too... first 7a last Christmas, 7a+ and 7b October, culmbinating in 7b+ this November. Bring on the 8s next year!
spidermonkey09 - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Awesome year with some of the best weather I can remember. I'll probably remember the year mainly for busting out of my comfort zone in trad, getting on some classic E2's (failing some...Left Wall...) and finishing off with Silly Arete in perfect weather- in November and Snivelling Shits (not E5 but take the tick!).

Its made such a difference to me to able to look through the Ground Up North Wales guide, which I got a few years ago when I could only dream of doing most of the routes in there. Now they look achievable and a whole new world of trad has opened up...bring it on!

neilwiltshire on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Probably the best year of my life:

Jan:
- started winter climbing for the first time, weekend in Scotland
- followed by mountaineering in NZ and witnessing/filming this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E28_3uj9K0g
- Followed up the climbing with 11 days riding NZ on a motorbike.
- Met American girl (in NZ)

Feb:
- 10 days of ice climbing in Rjukan. Lead WI4+ on my 4th day ever ice climbing. Some of my best ever climbing experiences so far happened on this trip

March:
Epic winter hike in the Yorkshire Dales over 3 days breaking trail and combating 9 foot snow drifts and camping in -15 degrees!

April:
- Spectacular winter climbing in the Lakes!
- Broke my back falling off a climb in Swanage, my second trad day of the year!

May:
- Turned 30

June:
- Recovered from injuries to lead HVS for the first time
- 3 day summer hike over the Chilterns

July:
- First trip to the Alps, summitting the Nadelhorn in amazing conditions with a clear view across to the Matterhorn.

August:
- Outstanding 3 days in North Wales, climbing Tryfan, Dinas Mot and onsighting HVS for the first time.

September to November:
- American girl met in January comes to live with me for 3 months
- Onsighted another (grit) HVS

December:
- Off to Florida with American girl for Christmas.


Roll on 2014, you have a tough act to follow!
Post edited at 18:23
climbingpixie - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
It was an amazing day, especially as we'd pretty much written the weekend off for climbing due to the wedding :-)

We did The Tomb and Sarcophagus, both brilliant routes despite their lack of traffic. Found the top pitch of Sarcophagus to be the hardest thing we did all day - proper lichen jamming! My only regret was not manning up and getting on Snickersnack as well but I had sore toes and felt a little psyched out after seeing some guy deck off Engineer's Slab - he was alright but it freaked me out a bit!
Post edited at 18:26
Dave Ferguson - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Had a fab summer up on the high crags of the lakes ticking some of the E2's I'ld been after for years, there aren't many summers when you can climb on Pillar, Scafell, High Crag, Gable, Boat Howe, and North Buttress-Bowfell on pretty much consecutive weekends. Highlight was Saxon AND the crack was bone dry, been waiting for that for 10 years!
john arran - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Gotta go down as a great year as we now have a wonderful baby daughter.
As an added bonus I seem to have lost a few pounds through lack of sleep so I'm climbing just as well as last year ;-)
kingholmesy - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to john arran:

Ditto. Highlights of the year - Pebble Mill, Darkinbad the Brightdayler, and the birth of my daughter.
Bulls Crack - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Being pleasantly reminded that good trad beats good sport hands down at the end of the day doing Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird on a glorious September day.

And, rediscovering mountain biking in my middle age.
John_Hat - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Climbing-wise, just getting back into it after the shoulder operation felt good. It was a big gamble to have the operation, and frankly I was worried that might be IT. I'd never climb again. Or at least not with lots and lots of pain.

As it turned out, however, whilst nothing fantastic achieved gradewise (1xE2 Max), but 210-in-a-day was a real achievement and I was really pleased with that.

Otherwise, lots of exams passed this year, plus organisation of a wedding, plus sorting some long term problems with my job out as well.

A good year, but very, very, very stressful.
Bobling - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Box of Delights at Vicarage Cliff, stolen from the weather before a renewed onslaught of family life with baby no 2, other than that perhaps a solo of Easy Route at Avon Gorge (after baby no 2!).
Post edited at 22:57
climbingpixie - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Dave Ferguson:

> Highlight was Saxon AND the crack was bone dry, been waiting for that for 10 years!

That's the big one that got away this year, I didn't manage to get the chance to go up to Scafell. Fingers crossed for a dry summer next year...
In reply to Rog Wilko:

I'm not sure it has been 'memorable' as such, though that doesn't mean it hasn't been great. Done so much it is hard to keep track:

Ariege > Sicily for 10 days > back to Ariege > Kalymnos for a month > back to Ariege > home to Sheffield for a couple of months on the grit and 10 days in western Scotland. A month in the Alps, > 10 days in Ariege (just for a change) > Kalymnos for six weeks > UK > back Ariege for Christmas - and a rest. No wonder I'm knackered!


Chris
Pagan - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Hard to beat the day on Scafell when we did Ichabod, Roaring Silence and Nazgul. Great day, great crowd up on the crag, great climbing.

Also the last day in the Tarn, managing to clinch redpoint success on two routes after a frustrating week of awful conditions. Finally doing Pleasure Dome after putting it off for years. Raven Crag Gully was pretty cool too, especially given the time of year - looks like we got it a day or two before you.

Quitting my job and securing the funding for a PhD wasn't bad either.
hokkyokusei - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Being guided up Dent Blanche. Way out of my comfort zone. Realising that, even though I was the fittest I've been for years, I still wasn't fit enough. We made the top and got back down, utterly exhausted.

The Ivanator - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Choss:



> I have set Myself a goal for 2014. To do my south west sub extreme sea stack List. Any offers to join me on any of them greatly Appreciated.

Small, but perfectly formed ...another SW Sea stack for your list: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=223491
The Ivanator - on 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

It has been a memorable year, becoming an adoptive father has changed my world. Climbing wise Exposure Explosion at Ogmore was the highlight, soloing E1 on a mad whim was a buzz (well overgraded route though). Putting up new routes at Sand point last weekend was fun too - so different setting off on a route not knowing what is in store.
LastBoyScout on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

1 - Fantastic 3-week honeymoon around Singapore, Cambodia and Thailand.
2 - finding out we're expecting a baby in January.
3 - some really good times with good friends, including some top-notch hill days.

Sadly, no climbing worth mentioning.
gethin_allen on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

My 2013 has been total rubbish. I've been broken for a good chunk of it (wrist still not perfect) so I've hardly done any climbing or cycling. Split with the gf of almost 8 years. Not had a propper holiday. The house is falling apart around me and costing me a fortune. Work has been unproductive and stressful. And now I'm feeling weak, flabby, skint, stressed and generally depressed.

It'll be good to see the back of it and fingers crossed 2014 will be better.
A good start would be for my wrist to repair itself and a good long winter with plenty of ice.
JamesRoddie - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Solos of Taxus, Staghorn Gully and about 30 other winter routes in amazing conditions.

A month of climbing and photography on Skye.

Moved to live in the Cairngorms.

My first trip to the Slovakian Tatras.

A great year!
johnj on 17 Dec 2013 - 86.112.78.158 whois?
In reply to Rog Wilko:

A spring time trip up to Laddow.
Sam Beaton on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

A day at Hound Tor with my sons back in May. My usual bouldering/soloing circuit there takes me a couple of hours, but with two excited small children trying to follow me everywhere, squirm through gaps and jump off boulders it took me all day to complete the circuit. I was delighted to see how much they enjoyed the place and they slept for 14 hours that night too!
timmeehhhh - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:



Two month climbing road trip from Colorado to California incl. loads of epics in Utah, Red Rocks, Eastern Sierras and Yosemite.

Trip to the alps: Sustenhorn east ridge, Galengrat verschneidung and Via Cassin (all in one week)
James Gilbert on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

No particularly memorable climbing, although I did get some tricky Font problems done. My main highlight from 2013 was cycling around Europe for 2 months: Paris to Budapest, then back through Slovenia and Italy.
French Erick - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

decided to train for real and took steps towards it. I ain't sure my climbing ability is better, but I am enjoying it and it is keeping me sane (life's encroachment on my selfish desires had left me an emotional wreck).
Sankey - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko: Amongst these:

Ledge route in perfect conditions, first to summit the Ben
First 6c sport routes in Turkey, long pitches on great holds
Week of amazing weather at Siruana, day after day of mellow climbing in such great surroundings
First 7a at Malham
Climbing an un-frequented choss north face route in the Garmisch Alps


Robert Durran - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Three weeks in July with the time, partners and weather to go round Scotland picking off at will bone dry plum mountain routes that had been on the hit list for many years. Possibly the best spell of cragging in my life.
chris fox on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Climbing wise, probably flashing Walleroo at Roaches - i've climbed harder but with little climbing this year to rap down to check it was dry and then climb it i was pretty happy.

Non climbing, getting the approval as an Engineer to certify the A380 aircraft, one of only 5 people at Manchester Airport with the approval and probably less than 30 people in the country.
Exile - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

1. Great Gully with the ice fall finish, Wasdale Screes. (Only people on it on Good Friday.)
2. Doing an ice route with my wife again after her 9yr(?) break
3. Ivy League
4. Totalitarian, (one I'd not got around to doing before. A great evening, finishing in the dark, with a good friend.)
5. First multipitch route with my 8yr old son, who loved it.
Choss on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Thanks. Added.
kathrync - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Climbing wise, this year has been poor.

Rest-of-life wise, I decided to change career at the end of last year, went back to university to do an MSc, graduated in October this year with a distinction and got a job that I am really enjoying.

The added bonus now being that I have more money and free time now, so climbing is back on the agenda for next year :o)

Also, Mum got the transplant that she's been waiting for for years, so that was a pretty big highlight too :o)
teflonpete - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Woeful year climbing. Got divorced, sold the house after spending the early summer decorating it to sell and gave half the equity to my ex in the process. Partner had a bout of vertigo for 3 months covering late summer while we were moving house. Glad to see the back of this year to be honest.

Had a few nice weekends away walking, one in Snowdonia in February with a bit of a snow trudge, one in the Lakes in May and one in the Peak last month but no climbing since a bit of puntering around at Saddle Head in March when we got caught in a hail shower half way up a route.

Looking forward to getting away for a few weekends climbing, walking and kayaking next year but I think my days of trying to push my grade are probably over.
Nigel R Lewis - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Pursued by a bear:

Me too! Good isn't it?
Mind you, when I say retire, I'm busier now than I've ever been!

N
Ally Smith on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to neilwiltshire:

Blimey - BIG year. Good luck with your Green Card!
Ally Smith on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to kathrync:

> Also, Mum got the transplant that she's been waiting for for years, so that was a pretty big highlight too :o)

"Like"!
Ally Smith on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to the OP:

I can't really match some of the amazing years that some people have had on here, so I'll just list some stats and let the numbers do the talking:

21 flights
8 Countries
16 F8's
2 First Ascents (one of which has been confirmed as 3* by guidebook writer)
6 days skiing (first time since an extended stay in Bourg St Maurice Hospital 3 years ago)
Sub hour lap of full 'degla red run
2 months single and loving it :-)

BALD EAGLE - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
> It was quite a year climatically, with a good winter extended into April (even in the fickle Lakes) followed by one of the best summers we've had since the last century. So what will you remember in the years to come?

Finally fulfilling a long held ambition to climb the infamous and iconic Eiger in Grindelwald... :-)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwAy1T-BP4Q
Cheers Dave
HeMa on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Well, managed to lead one of the local ice lines, that sort of has a reputation. Was nice, yes.

Also started the year by doing a FA of winter line at a nearby winter crag. Vid can be seen here:
http://www.vimeo.com/57475274

It was a year long project, as I tried to OS that line almost a year before I made the FA (fell from the crux crossing the lip, as the tiny patch of ice ripped).

As for rock, well I had a ball in Lofoten with some really good company, even though I did not climb much new routes. And back home, managed to climb a new personal best on a über classic line (1st 7a in Finland, and yes it is a gear protected line, none of that sport bolt-clipping malarkey).
Steve Perry - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

A new winter route on the Cuillin ridge, followed by 2 more new winter routes on Ben Hope.
Bell's Ridge on Ben Hope.
Dream of White Horses on a day we thought we'd have to work.
Lots of good spring/summer routes on Clwyd Limestone inc - Veta, Ceba, The Dogg and a repeat of The Minstrel.
Climbing Gnat Attack at Bus Stop Quarry on my first ever day on slate.
Finally making that top move on Westering Home at Reiff after falling off it lots.
Flake Crack at Helsby, brilliant!
The Black Streak at Diabeg, class.
A fantastic September week climbing in Sicily with the Mrs.
On the whole a good year.

victim of mathematics - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

In common with a few people here it seems, my climbing this year feels like it never really got started, but what I did do was mostly ace. In particular:

Things I've wanted to do for ages and finally got round to:
- Soloed 100 routes (and a vertical kilometer) at Stanage
- Climbed on Cloggy
- Scavenger at Gogarth
- Cool For Cats at Pembroke
- Visited Eastwood Rocks
- Dream of Wild Turkeys in Red Rocks

Things I didn't really know I wanted to do but turned out to be ace:
- Raven Crag Gully at Easter (snap). Fat ice all over the shop
- A great week exploring mad sandstone towers in the Pfalz
- Leading Quartz Icicle when I'd only intended to do one of the HVSs and hadn't led anything harder than HVS all year
- Not falling off The Moon
- All the other stuff I climbed in Red Rocks
Rog Wilko on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to john arran:

> Gotta go down as a great year as we now have a wonderful baby daughter.

> As an added bonus I seem to have lost a few pounds through lack of sleep so I'm climbing just as well as last year ;-)

I'd wager Anne isn't! But congratulations anyway. First of how many?
ads.ukclimbing.com
Rog Wilko on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

That must add up to more than 12 months, surely.
Rog Wilko on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Sand Point? I thought you could reach the finishing holds before you start.
Rog Wilko on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to gethin_allen:

Commiserations! Sounds awful. Perhaps sharing it will make you feel a tiny bit better.
Rog Wilko on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to timmeehhhh:

> Two month climbing road trip from Colorado to California incl. loads of epics in Utah, Red Rocks, Eastern Sierras and Yosemite.

> Trip to the alps: Sustenhorn east ridge, Galengrat verschneidung and Via Cassin (all in one week)

makes me feel very small!
Rog Wilko on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Three weeks in July with the time, partners and weather to go round Scotland picking off at will bone dry plum mountain routes that had been on the hit list for many years. Possibly the best spell of cragging in my life.

I'm envious. Debbie had a bad biking accident so I was rather restricted.
Rog Wilko on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to teflonpete:

>
> Looking forward to getting away for a few weekends climbing, walking and kayaking next year but I think my days of trying to push my grade are probably over.

Don't worry, haven't pushed a grade for years but still having fun!
The Ivanator - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> Sand Point? I thought you could reach the finishing holds before you start.

You must have longer arms than me! ;-) They are micro routes for sure, this VS here had a few nice moves:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=232067
Jim C - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko: My first grandchild Molly , ( 8 months)


BenPitt - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Bagged my first E1 lead (though thought it was HVS otherwise probably wouldn't have tried it...) - Three Pebble Slab at Froggatt. Wanted to get an E1 under the belt this year so chuffed I managed it.

Also did my first few proper DWS routes in Majorca. Not climbed as much as I'd have liked this year but these are my highlights I reckon.
Calder - on 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

The most memorable thing? Not leading any E1's despite the good weather and getting out plenty and having led E2 the previous year. Bloody demons (I had an accident late last year).
The Ivanator - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Choss:

Here's another Portland offering for your SW seastacks (pulpit rock), the route the photo is linked to is an E4, but there are 3 HVS routes up the main face visible in the shot. I've done a couple of them (rapture of the deep and the swirling pool) and they are worthwhile.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=32583
...alternatively you can amble up the ladder chipped into the leaning block on the landward side
Nath93 - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
First full season climbing. Had some great winter days at the start of the year and into the spring, and some oops moments like dropping my rucksack up a route on the Ben (funny looking back).

Also, doing a winter route which we thought was new, great feeling but turned out we had to settle for second ascent.

Getting to know the Cuillin well enough to be happy going to pretty much any part of the ridge on my own and feeling totally comfortable. Culminated in a great day in which i managed to hitch from Broadford to Glen Brittle and done from the Inn Pinn to Bruach na Frithe with the rope only coming out once for the abseil off the Pinn.

A day spent at Inveralligan cliffs just ticking our way along the shore line and getting most lines below VS done, total sunshine and under some of the most bad ass and impressive hills in Scotland.

Getting my lead grade up to HS 4b after one season leading which was only thwarted by what seems to have been constant rain since early October on the West coast, leaves me looking forward to the routes i'll have available to me when the new rock season starts.

Most importantly for me more than anything else is the people i've met and got to know over the year, solo days are awesome but days spent climbing with mates are the best.
Post edited at 01:57
Enty - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Falling off my first 7b for many years with my finger almost through the chains and not getting chance to go back on it :-(

A few days later this (almost) compensated for that though.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=222280

E
johnj on 18 Dec 2013 - 86.112.78.158 whois?
In reply to jasonkym:

WHY have you not replied to me? you put an add up for a push bike handbag, then you just tease me holding it to ransom!

I WANT MY HANDBAG NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

FETCH CARRY BRING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Post edited at 06:56
Cusco - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Redpointing Empire of the Sun 22 years after starting to climb (at Ansteys) and 22 years of dreaming.
The sirenesque call of some classic trad beckons for 2014 - hope its dry!
is2 - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Retired. Climbed 140 days, A couple of trips, couple of hundred routes ... Costa Blanca twice, Riglos, Montgrony, Burgundy, Font twice, Kalymnos .... Gogarth, Yorkshire lime and County sandstone. 50 for 5 finally put to bed, Burgundy boulder problem finally done, Biceps was fun.
TRip - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Having Point Five Gully to ourselves on a perfect Easter day. Made up for our ineptitude on the Cullin the day before.

Climbing West Buttress Eliminate and Shrike on Cloggy early in June. Both long held ambitions that I'd been intimidated of.

Getting engaged.

Astral Stroll with Dad. We swung leads, which was a good effort on his part as he rarely leads E1.

Soloing Commando Ridge - Do Diffs get any better than this?

A quick trip home, where I climbed Astra, Saxon and CB over a couple of days.

Buying a house and moving to Sheffield.

Visiting the Needles in California. The place is stunning, but the grades aren't soft.

Royal Arches, Nutcracker and Central Pillar of Frenzy in Yosemite. I'd hoped to do many more of the easy classics but the US government had different ideas.

Coming back into the Valley after the shutdown and climbing the Leaning Tower West Face - my first big wall.

Climbing the Whillans Route on Poincenot 48 hours after arriving in Patagonia.

Flashing Crescent Arete last week on a crisp winters days.





puppythedog on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to gethin_allen:

Sounds really rubbish, I hope 2014 is a better one for you.
Rachel Slater - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Going to Cloggy, Scafell, The Ben, The Shelterstone and the Old Man of Hoy for the first time, summer climbing.

First English 6a lead.

Spending 3 months climbing in France and Spain, doing my first 7b, 7b+, 7c, 7c+ and 8a!

Have no idea how I can possibly top that for 2014...
Murko Fuzz - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

1) Nearly getting wiped out by a rock fall on an Afghan mountain
2) Getting knocked off my bike by a hit and run
3) Breaking my back skiing
4) Having my marriage proposal accepted

Happy to be here.....!
Blue Straggler - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Murko Fuzz:

> 1) Nearly getting wiped out by a rock fall on an Afghan mountain

> 2) Getting knocked off my bike by a hit and run

> 3) Breaking my back skiing

> 4) Having my marriage proposal accepted

No. 4 is the most perilous of the lot!
The New NickB - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Not done much climbing this year, but taking my girlfriends 12 year old on her first outdoor rock climbing and mountain scrambling experiences was good, she enjoyed it, but took a while to get used to it compared to her weekly instructed sessions at the local wall.

Done lots of outdoor swimming this year, local trips to Gaddings Dam and Lumb Hole Falls, but also the River Wye, the Duddon Valley, Coniston.

A really good start to my running year with a best ever result at the National XC, PBs at 10k, 20 miles and marathon, but also injury and illness messing up a big chunk of the year.

Started the new year only a few weeks into a new relationship, this has gone fantastically well.

Big changes at work, mostly positive, lots of new responsibilities and they finally admitted to owing me lots of money, which they eventually paid me.

I've got quite a lot to be thankful for really.
pork pie girl - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

climbing wise.. ticking my first 7c+.. that was a fight

none climbing stuff.. most a bit depressing.. around illness and death of significant people in my life... the 7c+ has been good therapy.. mostly :o)

good things... meeting new people...they have inspired me.. spending time with existing friends and my partner and her family that have also inspired me and been wonderful..(more than they will ever know) moving back up north and spending time with friends i haven't seen for a long time .. kindred spirit stuff

it's been a memorable year



AJM - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

- feeling like, sometimes, I was finally getting the hang of tufa climbing in Turkey
- learning to try harder on trad than I thought I could and getting on E4s, and finding that if you really give it everything the successes (Penny, Grand Alliance, Weasels rip my flesh, Peryl) and the failures (Resurrection) don't feel as different as they usually do. In some ways Resurrection was one of the best experiences I had all year, which is something I suspect many people just won't get.
- getting way more solid on E3s. Making the most of the good weather on the routes above, and on The Moon, and Equus, and Raven Wall, and all the others.
- pottering up into the woods at Huntsham and exploring the bouldering, culminating with the ultimate sideways crabbing exercise of Low Blow
- enjoying the Yorkshire big 2 and the Yorkshire scene on The Ashes and Cave Route Right.
- a fun day out with good friends on magical mystery tour
- getting engaged
- helping make next years mega euro roadtrip into a reality

Only thing I missed out on really was a good trip abroad (Ceuse in May I just wasn't in the zone for) and an 8a (tried one, and perhaps a second too, but no cigar).
Murko Fuzz - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler:

It's okay, I'm going to have a Safety Wife.
veryhappybunny - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

A super week in the far north west in March when the sun shone every day and as well as other walks we discovered what a great mountain Quinag is in the snow.

Some scorching days on Corbetts in the July sun.

Climbing the cobbler on my first wedding anniversary :)

Revisiting some favourite hills in the lakes - pillar, the buttermere hills, Sale Fell!

A great week in Glencoe and a super day on the grey corries.
JimboWizbo - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Flashing both unconquerables on the same day is pretty high up for me
Graeme Hammond - on 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
for all the wrong reasons 31st May when I fell off soloing and broke both ankles and my wrist, I haven't really climbed since:(
Post edited at 22:51
Dispater on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:


I ended my marriage, and had my right leg sawn in two.
Jonny2vests - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Bugger. What did you fall off Graeme?
Graeme Hammond - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Jonny2vests:
Don at Stanage, having found it was a straight forward solo above the snow earlier in the year it gave me the confidence to go for the ethical tick without the snow and any pads, only it didn't work out and I ruined a load of peoples Friday night (the Edale Mountain rescue who did a great job!). Recovery going OK but will have to wait and see what movement i get back in the right ankle that required surgery.
Post edited at 07:25
Jamie B - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

First full year of self-employment. Less work, but much better work, on my terms.

4 months (out of 6) of the best winter season ever. Highlights of this too numerous to mention.

Finally climbing the peerless Gob on Carnmore crag. Perfect day, perfect partner.

Possibly meeting the love of my life?
climbwhenready - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Oh, I will :-) Thanks!
Rog Wilko on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Dispater:

> and had my right leg sawn in two.

I can't begin to imagine what this means!
Kafoozalem - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Lots of quality routes in lovely locations around the E2 mark. One or two were graded E1 and some were graded E3 but they all seemed about E2 if I'm honest.

At the upper end - Elegy (Roaches), Boysen's Groove (Cribba), Purple Haze (Kit Hill), Arachnophobia (Chudleigh).

Bog standard - Grand Central Station (Avon), Ausfaht (Rivelin), Local Hero (Sandymouth), Zarathustra (Gt Zawn), Judas (Gt Zawn), Yesterday's Dreams (Wintours), Rhinoceras (Hay Tor), Hostile Witness (Bench Tor), Zulu (Wynd Cliff).

Soft - Commander Energy (Roaches), White Feather (Wintours and given E3), Boysens Crack (Cribba), Madonna of the Waves (Vessacks), Savage Messiah (Cratcliff), Indian Country (Carn Gowla).

Also got a bit braver at DWS and realised those White Rhino Tea routes at Berry Head are soft touches.

I also got intimate with two locations and produced mini online guides to bouldering at Down Tor (Dartmoor) and DWS at Berry Head Coastguard.

All in all a terrific year with great people, lovely places and memorable experiences.
thomm - on 19 Dec 2013
Finally stood atop the Cioch, plastic sword in hand, after ten years of climbing. There can be only one. (actually there were four of us)
Jon Stewart - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

A good year.

Bouldering regularly at Caley in the spring was great, and ticking the 2 or 3 decent routes at my grade on Yorkshire grit was a worthwhile exercise. Never did the big routes at Almscliff, but took the big lob off Big Greeny.

Climbed at Sheigra, Ardmair and Reiff again - wonderful.

Did lots of day trips to the Lakes and climbed some class routes like Fastburn, one on Raven Threshers, Roaring Silence, Samba Pa Ti...

Gogarth didn't quite deliver the best stuff this year, with the exception of Centrefold. Had quite a few bad days at big G, with everything feeling dirty, creaky and awkward - or just easy and loose (Mousetrap).

Best trip to Pembroke ever. Loads of amazing routes and my first couple of E4s, including the amazing Star Wars. Climbed with loads of different people, all were great, and I suspect that might be the best trip I ever have.

Haven't done anything in the autumn/winter and don't expect to. Back on Peak grit, I've got zero enthusiasm for the tedious bouldering and I've done all the good stuff a zillion times. Roll on Spring.
oddtoast on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

2013 was the most stressful, mixed up, confusing and eventually wonderful year I’ve had.

My first full climbing year after starting last autumn. 45 days on rock, from Spain in April to Turkey in November and a load of UK trad in the middle.

I love how every new crag I go to (from lawrencefield to the roaches, to castell helen to carreg-y-barcud) is like meeting a friend for the first time, tentatively introducing myself and knowing that there’s a future of good times ahead.

Pure climbing highlights were my first HS 4b lead (at Millstone) my first clean E1 5b second (in Pembroke) but really its been about perfect moments in beautiful places with wonderful people.

I learnt that steep and juggy is ok, dropping your nuts is a not ok and checking someone has the climbing ropes before abbing of a sea cliff is a very good idea.

Climbing has *stuck* for good now and it has massively improved my life.

I also ended a long-term relationship, and started a new one that better fits with who I am today, bought a motorbike, learnt how to ask people for help when I’m struggling and on 1st January will start my first permanent job.

Merry Christmas everyone, and have a great 2014.
VS4b - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to oddtoast:

Hitting my target of cycling 4000 miles - 3 weeks ahead of plan!
jkarran - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Climbing wise there's not much to say. Visited the Mournes for the first time which was fun if a little out of my comfort zone. Aside from that I did a bit of sport climbing to a similar level as last year. No serious injuries.

Outside of climbing I bought a house with my partner, adopted a dog, made a couple of single seater glider conversions and made a good stab at failing my first marathon attempt.

jk
ads.ukclimbing.com
Jon Stewart - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to oddtoast:

> I love how every new crag I go to (from lawrencefield to the roaches, to castell helen to carreg-y-barcud) is like meeting a friend for the first time, tentatively introducing myself and knowing that there’s a future of good times ahead.

Sounds like an amazingly good first year of climbing. For the first few years I was content just to stay in the Peak, took me ages to get out onto sea cliffs - good going, keep it up!
Kafoozalem - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Mustn't forget String of Pearls at Bosi - again awesome and felt E2.
Jonny2vests - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Wow, good effort, falling of Don at least makes a good story.
oddtoast on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Well a lot of it is down to joining a great friendly encouraging club on day one. But the sea cliffs are thanks to the also mentioned new relationship. Nothing like an trip to gogarth or pembroke to woo a lass! :p

Problem with expanding my horizons to climb more on rock with actual holds is that now I grumble even more when struggling on peak grit.

Variety is great as a rubbish beginner because instead of always getting stuck on the same types of route, you find there are so many types of route to get stuck on. I disproportionally suck at sport limestone massively fr'istance :p


Jon Stewart - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to oddtoast:

> Problem with expanding my horizons to climb more on rock with actual holds is that now I grumble even more when struggling on peak grit.

It took me about 10 years to realise that climbing with holds and gear was more fun than standing on a ledge looking up, bewildered at the complete lack of any way of making upward progress.

> I disproportionally suck at sport limestone massively fr'istance :p

Don't worry, it's crap anyway.
mrdigitaljedi - on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Returning to climbing after 10yrs away............and finding a new outlook on life...
LakesWinter on 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Well, I did my first couple of E3s, although I used some pads so a 'proper' E3 awaits...

Doing Chock Gully and Great Gully Right Hand on the Screes in March; both routes I'd been waiting to do for years and years.

A great trip to Scotland in February ticking off some classics with lots of neve and no wind all week.

Leading my hardest sport leads to date

Doing Shock Horror Slab

Bluemslisalp Traverse above Kandersteg and the Gross Diamanstock East Ridge - 2 amazing classics of the Bernese Alps that got me back into Alpinism after a few years off.
Rog Wilko on 20 Dec 2013
In reply to oddtoast:

Hey, nice story! Hope you have lots more smiles in 2014.
Dispater on 22 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

> I can't begin to imagine what this means!


Massive knee and femur surgery.
alastairbegley - on 24 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

I did have a fairly exceptional year which is going to be hard to match! Finally got around to writing a summary blog post: http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2013/12/fantastic-2013-100-photos/
Alex Riley on 24 Dec 2013
Had my first season of climbing (the year before indoors doesn't count)
Onsighting Off the Beaten track (E3 5c) and leading Goose creature (E3 6a) in Australia (Llanberis Slate)

Leading my first outdoor 7a

Trip to Switzerland

Snorkelling in the Irish Sea (off the Welsh Coast) in a pair of boardshorts, seeing dolphins (then asking my girlfriend to marry me.. perfect timing).

Spending two months doing rappelling, trekking and team building challenges with kids in India.
andyinglis - on 24 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Quite a good year and lots of memorable days, with a few of the best being:
* Doing Postern, Blood Sweat and Frozen Tears, Apache and the Secret amoung others
* The Carrington Rouse on the Pelerin and lots of good multipitch alpine route routes
* Skiing the NE face of the Courtes and the west face of the Eiger (ok that was lifetime memorable!)
* Onsighting first E5, peotry pink, and climbing in N Wales for the first time (good climbing and friendly holiday grades)
* Getting on loads of quality cairngorm routes during the amazing dry summer..... voyage, naked ape, haystack, run of the arrow, chariots of fire, black spout wall....
* Doing Mont Blanc and few other 4,000ers with the wife
* Running the south glen shiel ridge on a blue sky day
* Getting Too fast too furious done at birnam, and greg's M12 stamina fest big bad wolf

Above average year for sure!
Andy
Al Evans on 24 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

My daughter and her partner visiting in November, Oh and discovering that I am to be a grandfather second time over soon in the New Year.
ian Ll-J - on 24 Dec 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Not the best year due to on-going back problems, however these stand out as the highlights of 2013...

A fun trip to Font last Easter.

Watching my kids doing the first Ascent of the multi pitch F6b 'Imagine Dragons' in Twll Mawr http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68159

Enjoyed climbing the FA of 'Set the Controls for the Heart of the Sun' F7a in Twll Mawr.
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/06/19/team-lloyd-jones-busy-in-twll-mawr-%E2%80%93-new-f7a-and-a-two...

Enjoyed another Twll Mawr First Ascent 'Dark side of the moon' F7b
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/07/05/dark-side-of-the-moon-f7b-%E2%80%93-more-slate-action-in-twll-...

Leading a thin and technical slab one handed! - 'Remembrance Day' Malamute Squamish 5.12a / 7a+

On sighting 'Plexiglass' f7b Auzat, Ariege during a school trip.

Belaying my daughter on the first ascent of 'Boulevard of Broken Dreams' F7a+ in the slate quarries.
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/07/17/boulevard-of-broken-dreams-f7a-immaculate-new-slate-route-from...

Watching my kids on the first ascent of 'Let yourself Go!'F7a and 'Super Slinky' F6c in the slate quarries.
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/07/13/let-yourself-go-f7a-super-slinky-f6c-%E2%80%93-pair-of-shady-c...

Enjoyed climbing a couple of classic Multi Pitch routes with my kids -'Diedre' Squamish Chief with my daughter and 'Amptrax' El Chorro with my son. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=232335


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