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I caught the end of an episode of Coast the other evening in which the presenter visited a series of small stone-domed buildings which I think were originally inhabited by monks and it was accessed via a narrow, winding cliff-side path. It was somewhere on the south coast and was quite a dramatic location, which I'm now struggling to find.
Anyone got a suggestion? Sorry I can't be more specific with the description, other than it was a bit like a miniature Machu Picchu on a sea cliff!
Anyone got a suggestion? Sorry I can't be more specific with the description, other than it was a bit like a miniature Machu Picchu on a sea cliff!
In reply to Fraser:
Highly likely to have been Skellig Michael, an island about 7 miles out in the Atlantic, west of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry. One of the most gobsmacklingly spectacular, yet calm and peaceful living places (700 feet above the Atlantic, on the top of a pinnacle) that I've ever visited. Tangboche Monastery south of the Everest Massif is another.
Highly likely to have been Skellig Michael, an island about 7 miles out in the Atlantic, west of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry. One of the most gobsmacklingly spectacular, yet calm and peaceful living places (700 feet above the Atlantic, on the top of a pinnacle) that I've ever visited. Tangboche Monastery south of the Everest Massif is another.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Excellent, that's the place! Thanks very much. I'm surprised I'd never heard or read of such an impressive place so close to home.
Excellent, that's the place! Thanks very much. I'm surprised I'd never heard or read of such an impressive place so close to home.
In reply to Fraser:
To elaborate. Your description fits Skellig Michael exactly. You climb this amazing zig-zag path, some of it cut out of the rock, much of it like a modern (rebuilt) hillwalking path, constructed by a few monks in c. 800 AD. Very spectacular. The top can't be much more than about 40 metres by 10 metres - a beautiful s/e facing slightly sloping terrace of grass (facing the mainland), covered with mountain flowers, and about 7 or 8 'beehive' stone huts, still if very good condition. Very small. The sound of the sea and surf barely audible about 6-700 feet below. One of the most amazing, beautiful, peaceful places I've ever been, totally cut off from civilisation. I waited at Dunquin for a week to 10 days before the weather was good enough to take a very small boat out there. That was 1976. Hope it hasn't been wrecked in any way by tourism since then.
To elaborate. Your description fits Skellig Michael exactly. You climb this amazing zig-zag path, some of it cut out of the rock, much of it like a modern (rebuilt) hillwalking path, constructed by a few monks in c. 800 AD. Very spectacular. The top can't be much more than about 40 metres by 10 metres - a beautiful s/e facing slightly sloping terrace of grass (facing the mainland), covered with mountain flowers, and about 7 or 8 'beehive' stone huts, still if very good condition. Very small. The sound of the sea and surf barely audible about 6-700 feet below. One of the most amazing, beautiful, peaceful places I've ever been, totally cut off from civilisation. I waited at Dunquin for a week to 10 days before the weather was good enough to take a very small boat out there. That was 1976. Hope it hasn't been wrecked in any way by tourism since then.
In reply to andyathome:
PS. Those huts look a bit tarted up now, with some gravel around them. When I was there, they were just sitting in the grass, obviously exactly as they'd been for a thousand years.
PS. Those huts look a bit tarted up now, with some gravel around them. When I was there, they were just sitting in the grass, obviously exactly as they'd been for a thousand years.
In reply to Fraser:
The government did quite a lot of 'tarting up' in the last 15 years, some of it got quite a slating as it wasn't seen to be 'conservation', more 're-building' a- and they used drystone wallers without much training in terms of restoration.
I lived in the SW for ten years and everytime I decided to go to the Skelligs it was too rough to go.
You did well Gordon!! ;
The government did quite a lot of 'tarting up' in the last 15 years, some of it got quite a slating as it wasn't seen to be 'conservation', more 're-building' a- and they used drystone wallers without much training in terms of restoration.
I lived in the SW for ten years and everytime I decided to go to the Skelligs it was too rough to go.
You did well Gordon!! ;
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
>One of the most amazing, beautiful, peaceful places I've ever been, totally cut off from civilisation. Hope it hasn't been wrecked in any way by tourism since then.
I fully agree with those sentiments. Years ago (1990ish) I snuck off from a boatload of visitors to the 'monastery' and soon found my way to the high point of the island.
It was an easy enough scramble but once at the summit rock, the sense of exposure was terrifying. The land was all beneath and the atlantic stretched away on the horizon for 360 degrees.
With a stiff breeze blowing, it was a challenge to detach myself from the rock and begin the downclimb - not so much a crux move as sheer elemental terror and a feeling of my own personal insignificance, the sense of being connected to the earth had evaporated in that moment.
What I found remarkable about the summit is that it was once one of the most important sites for pilgramage in western Europe.
I believe there are similar beehive structures in the Outer Hebrides.
>One of the most amazing, beautiful, peaceful places I've ever been, totally cut off from civilisation. Hope it hasn't been wrecked in any way by tourism since then.
I fully agree with those sentiments. Years ago (1990ish) I snuck off from a boatload of visitors to the 'monastery' and soon found my way to the high point of the island.
It was an easy enough scramble but once at the summit rock, the sense of exposure was terrifying. The land was all beneath and the atlantic stretched away on the horizon for 360 degrees.
With a stiff breeze blowing, it was a challenge to detach myself from the rock and begin the downclimb - not so much a crux move as sheer elemental terror and a feeling of my own personal insignificance, the sense of being connected to the earth had evaporated in that moment.
What I found remarkable about the summit is that it was once one of the most important sites for pilgramage in western Europe.
I believe there are similar beehive structures in the Outer Hebrides.
In reply to Dave Perry:
In the picture I posted (found from a Google), it also looks suspiciously as if they've built some kind of 'retaining' wall on the downslope side. I don't remember there being any wall whatever. What a pity if some Irish tourist board is xxxxing it up.
In the picture I posted (found from a Google), it also looks suspiciously as if they've built some kind of 'retaining' wall on the downslope side. I don't remember there being any wall whatever. What a pity if some Irish tourist board is xxxxing it up.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
This may answer your concerns about restoration.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpXgBveqnjY.
About 6 mins 14 secs in, I think they also show the 'restored' Gallarus Oratory which is on the mainland (Dingle). Not what you could call 'sensitive'.
This may answer your concerns about restoration.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpXgBveqnjY.
About 6 mins 14 secs in, I think they also show the 'restored' Gallarus Oratory which is on the mainland (Dingle). Not what you could call 'sensitive'.
Post edited at 23:26
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
The island opposite is spectacular too. Like a smaller Ball's Pyramid.
The island opposite is spectacular too. Like a smaller Ball's Pyramid.
In reply to llechwedd:
I have done the same!
On a sunny day its a stunning place, always wondered how they survived the winters on that rock!
I have done the same!
On a sunny day its a stunning place, always wondered how they survived the winters on that rock!
In reply to Cú Chullain:
What did you think at the top?
I vaguely remember the boatman telling us that it was thought that the monks had to acclimatise to the conditions gradually, weeks on the island, then months, until they built up to life there for a year. I think he suggested that they left the island in winter. There is a base nearby on the mainland- Ballinskelligs
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballinskelligs_Abbey
I guess that the name Ballin- skelligs means ford of the skelligs but someone more educated than me on UKC may confirm this.
> I have done the same!
What did you think at the top?
> On a sunny day its a stunning place, always wondered how they survived the winters on that rock!
I vaguely remember the boatman telling us that it was thought that the monks had to acclimatise to the conditions gradually, weeks on the island, then months, until they built up to life there for a year. I think he suggested that they left the island in winter. There is a base nearby on the mainland- Ballinskelligs
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballinskelligs_Abbey
I guess that the name Ballin- skelligs means ford of the skelligs but someone more educated than me on UKC may confirm this.
In reply to llechwedd:
Touch of the vertigo and a few moments of Elvis leg on the way down, thought the views both out to the Atlantic and back towards the mainline were fantastic.
Did you ever get out to the Blasket islands when you were in Kerry?
> What did you think at the top?
Touch of the vertigo and a few moments of Elvis leg on the way down, thought the views both out to the Atlantic and back towards the mainline were fantastic.
Did you ever get out to the Blasket islands when you were in Kerry?
In reply to llechwedd:
"Baile" means town.
The many towns and villages named Ballinsomething or Ballysomething are Anglicisations of Baile Something
"Ath" means ford, as in Athlone or Baile Atha Cliath (Dublin)
> I guess that the name Ballin- skelligs means ford of the skelligs but someone more educated than me on UKC may confirm this.
"Baile" means town.
The many towns and villages named Ballinsomething or Ballysomething are Anglicisations of Baile Something
"Ath" means ford, as in Athlone or Baile Atha Cliath (Dublin)
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
It is a sad fact that Ireland has a unique celtic archeology. Most of the archeology in Ireland has never been excavated = mainly due to lack of money and expertise. As the short film posted by Llechwedd explains, the Euro, $ & £ come first. So they turn what they can into a disney version.
I went to Newgrange. Europes largest celtic tomb. it has been totally rebuilt on the outside without any evidence of what it was originally like. Some other sites - mainly raths (stone forts) have been radically rebuilt in the past. Yet other sites are allowed to be destroyed by farmers landowners and in some cases the tourists themselves.
It is a sad fact that Ireland has a unique celtic archeology. Most of the archeology in Ireland has never been excavated = mainly due to lack of money and expertise. As the short film posted by Llechwedd explains, the Euro, $ & £ come first. So they turn what they can into a disney version.
I went to Newgrange. Europes largest celtic tomb. it has been totally rebuilt on the outside without any evidence of what it was originally like. Some other sites - mainly raths (stone forts) have been radically rebuilt in the past. Yet other sites are allowed to be destroyed by farmers landowners and in some cases the tourists themselves.
In reply to Dave Perry:
I visited Newgrange in 1976, but I don't think it had been messed about with much then. Obviously tidied up a bit.
I visited Newgrange in 1976, but I don't think it had been messed about with much then. Obviously tidied up a bit.
In reply to llechwedd:
There is an early monastery with a couple of ruined beehive cells on Eileach an Naoimh, between Mull and Jura.
> I believe there are similar beehive structures in the Outer Hebrides.
There is an early monastery with a couple of ruined beehive cells on Eileach an Naoimh, between Mull and Jura.
Think some of the criticism is a bit harsh. Gallarus Oratory is the same structure that was there when it was constructed, the restoration has been to the area around it to make it more accessible but it's not like it's been rebuilt. The controversy in Skelligs relates to one terrace of many, and when they were restoring rock that had fallen whether they were correct to make it so straight. But it's far from some mock up. Newgrange was controversial, and what they did was to study the pattern of the fallout of of stones. Yes, they didn't have the blueprints, but it's not like there was no evidence on the ground. As for expertise, I certainly am not sure that we didn't have a clue so we went for the Disney version, I think in fact most of the archeology sections of Irish universities might regard themselves as being pretty darn handy at excavating Irish sites.
The Victorians straightened up Stonehenge and rebuilt a lot of Rievaulx Abbey and other "ruins", it's kinda part of the evolution of structures.
As for the climbing aspect, the southern pinnacle is off limits now. But what is remarkable is that they only "discovered" a hermitage near that pinnacle in the 1980s which is particularly precarious and remote, much more so than the monastery on the north pinnacle. Oh and excavated afaik by the archeology department of UCC..and no water slide installed!
Post edited at 21:36
In reply to Cú Chullain:
I never did.
Got sidetracked by some superb box (button accordion) playing in Kerry.
> Did you ever get out to the Blasket islands when you were in Kerry?
I never did.
Got sidetracked by some superb box (button accordion) playing in Kerry.
In reply to cbmurphy74:
Maybe just a little harsh. Although the structure is the same, to me, in that setting, the Oratory looks sterilised. I have yet to see an example where, in providing mass access to a small/intimate structure, something of the spirit of the place is not lost.
Here in Wales, we also suffer from the '100 places you must see' mentality. Thankfully many of the 'must sees' are large structures that seem better able to absorb the effects of the tourist machine.
Being able to sense the effect of time on a structure is important for me. I fully accept the damage that the Victorians did in their desire for the picturesque. I think they were grappling with an aesthetic they imperfectly understood, hence the crassness of their actions. But the present day management of structures such as the Gallarus Oratory seems not even to be aware of a spirit of place, seeing it more as an opportunity for demonstrating conservation building techniques and,with an eye on the tourist Euro, the central importance of increasing safe access. I've no solution to the problem despite my diagnosis.
I think what both the Victorians and in this case the modern guardians are lacking is an awareness of what the Japanese call Wabi-sabi.
> Think some of the criticism is a bit harsh. Gallarus Oratory is the same structure that was there when it was constructed, the restoration has been to the area around it to make it more accessible but it's not like it's been rebuilt.
Maybe just a little harsh. Although the structure is the same, to me, in that setting, the Oratory looks sterilised. I have yet to see an example where, in providing mass access to a small/intimate structure, something of the spirit of the place is not lost.
Here in Wales, we also suffer from the '100 places you must see' mentality. Thankfully many of the 'must sees' are large structures that seem better able to absorb the effects of the tourist machine.
Being able to sense the effect of time on a structure is important for me. I fully accept the damage that the Victorians did in their desire for the picturesque. I think they were grappling with an aesthetic they imperfectly understood, hence the crassness of their actions. But the present day management of structures such as the Gallarus Oratory seems not even to be aware of a spirit of place, seeing it more as an opportunity for demonstrating conservation building techniques and,with an eye on the tourist Euro, the central importance of increasing safe access. I've no solution to the problem despite my diagnosis.
I think what both the Victorians and in this case the modern guardians are lacking is an awareness of what the Japanese call Wabi-sabi.
In reply to Fraser:
This probably tells you all you want:
http://publishing.cdlib.org/ucpressebooks/view?docId=ft1d5nb0gb;chunk.id=0;...
This probably tells you all you want:
http://publishing.cdlib.org/ucpressebooks/view?docId=ft1d5nb0gb;chunk.id=0;...
In reply to llechwedd:
Wow, that's quite some document, thanks for posting. I'll maybe start reading through it in more detail when I've a spare fortnight over Christmas!
Wow, that's quite some document, thanks for posting. I'll maybe start reading through it in more detail when I've a spare fortnight over Christmas!
The Hermitage is sensational alright. And so many trip out the rock, up to the beehive huts and monastery on the North peak - remarkable too of course - and fail to realise that over there heads, clinging to the side near the top of the South peak, was a place for those who though a barren rock in the Atlantic wasn't remote enough, they had to get to an even more inaccessible and lonely location.
In reply to
I just looked at my photos of my tour around Ireland's Coast in the summer, and I have a photo of me outside a beehive house ( on the mainland) trying to recall where it was.
> I believe there are similar beehive structures in the Outer Hebrides.
I just looked at my photos of my tour around Ireland's Coast in the summer, and I have a photo of me outside a beehive house ( on the mainland) trying to recall where it was.
In reply to Fraser:
I didn't catch the episode of Coast, however there are bee bole shelters on Inish Murray that can be visited. It's in Donegal Bay but comes under County Sligo.
Friends in Foyle Paddlers (Derry based kajaking club) had a trip out with overnight camp -leaving no trace - in the high summer a year or two back and they thought it was a very special place to visit.
Most isles off the west of Ireland, or Scotland, have something of the special about them - I'd recommend getting in touch with the paddlers, or for Donegal climbing on the isles look at/contact Colmcille Climbers Club.
I didn't catch the episode of Coast, however there are bee bole shelters on Inish Murray that can be visited. It's in Donegal Bay but comes under County Sligo.
Friends in Foyle Paddlers (Derry based kajaking club) had a trip out with overnight camp -leaving no trace - in the high summer a year or two back and they thought it was a very special place to visit.
Most isles off the west of Ireland, or Scotland, have something of the special about them - I'd recommend getting in touch with the paddlers, or for Donegal climbing on the isles look at/contact Colmcille Climbers Club.
In reply to Inishowen:
Thanks for the info. The other day I managed to find that particular episode of Coast on YouTube:
youtube.com/watch?v=LamHTCxwl7I&
You can skip forward to about 39:50 to see the section on Skellig Michael.
Thanks for the info. The other day I managed to find that particular episode of Coast on YouTube:
youtube.com/watch?v=LamHTCxwl7I&
You can skip forward to about 39:50 to see the section on Skellig Michael.
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