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Troll wall

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 will 18 Dec 2013
Hi All. a few of us are hopefully going to do the Norwegian route (Troll wall), in July/August 2014. and we are looking for any tips/advice from anyone that has done the route etc. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
 hillman 18 Dec 2013
In reply to will:

Here is some Norwegian trip reports, tentatively translated to English

http://www.norsk-klatring.no/klatring/Ute/Fjell/Norskeruta-i-Trollveggen-fr...

Norwegian route on the Troll Wall free climbed
By: ozz
Wednesday 29 October 2008

Many have talked about it and many have tried. Now it's finally done. Sindre Sæther and his father Ole Johan Sæther climbed from 26 to 27 . July Norwegian route in free .
The route is neither particularly difficult nor particularly long, but has still resisted the past years attempts to free climb the route. After the troll wall avalanches affected parts of the Rimmond and Swedish Route the left edge of the wall is given new relevance .
One must still get very close to the rockfall zone to enter the route , and this author were deterred from an attempt when we were just under the wall to give its start a closer look . Two gigant rockfalls with size like double trailers knocked down in the intro slabs and got us to run . No way if we were going up the wall. But the rockfalls of the wall has in recent years concentrated on the area under Bruraskaret, and the great danger inherent in crossing the introslabs . Recommended approach to Norwegian route is down and to the left of the intro slabs , and in recent years this has been virtually untouched by the loose rubble.

 Norwegian route
- Entering the Norwegian Ruta was a calculated risk , said Ole Johan Sæther when we met him well down from the wall.
- If you look at the snow under the instep we saw little signs of rockfalls . Therefore we took the chance to climb the route. _The Line included mostly large formations , besides the hardest pitch of 5 - 6 pitch is graded 7 in Norwegian grades, aprr 6c -6c+ in French grades.

- The rest of the route we climbed mostly in mountain boots. Climbing consisted much in crossing the upward flowing formations with the occasional short harder climbing , said Sæther.

- It was decent conditions , although it was too hot .
The month of July 2008 in Romsdal was the driest in 50 years .
The rope team spent about 20 hours on the whole trip , in the hottest weather we have experienced in Romsdal for a long time.
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It should be noted that Sindre Sæther is an extremly comptetent climber, onsigthing routes up to grade 7c -8a on run out routes and loose rock.
The hours used and the given grades should be considered in this light.

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The second ascent in free climbing. In september 2010, over two days

http://www.norsk-klatring.no/Ute/Fjell/Norskeruta-besteget-igjen

- Ole Ivar Lid and I climbed the route in stable weather and tinder-dry conditions. The temperature was about 2-3C at night and 10-12C + in the day. Daylight from 0630-2030 . Because of the short days and low night temperatures, we took no chance of doing the route in one day push. We brought a down sleeping bag , a wind bag , a jacket and gas burner and stayed overnight at the stunning bivuack ledge at the 14 pitch . The route took two days and about 20 hours climb .
He talks about serious climbing and some difficult protection conditions, but they did not experience rockfalls in the wall :
- The route has a lot of great climbing, but it is about 1600 meters climb the main objective 5 's and 6 's level. This don't route differ so much from the rest of the routes on the wall and it has a serious character, where also the 5- pitches requires full attention in terms of loose rock and at times limited protection opportunities. There were not rockfalls in the wall when we were there but it has gone landslide earlier this summer that has landed near the edge of the route . It therefore pays to be quick on the last part of the approach and the first pitch .

OP will 19 Dec 2013
In reply to hillman:

Thanks for that.

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