UKC

Enjoyed the recent article on the ten must so routes at ii and iii (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5947). Just wondering what others would add. This will be my second winter season and I'm trying to build up my wishlist!

In reply to Anhibian:

North East Ridge of Stob Ban is a good day out, we went up it as a second choice due to the gondola being shut due to wind and therefore being too late for the ben: http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2013/02/north-east-ridge-stob-ba...

In the right conditions with the ice cave, Gardyloo Gully is great!: http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2012/04/winter-climbing-ben-nevi...

Hard for III but Left Twin on Aonach Mor is also a great short route with a very short approach: http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2013/03/left-twin/

In poor conditions Dorsal Arete can be a good choice, but its a hell of an approach for a small amount of climbing: http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2013/02/windy-dorsal-arete/

And as that said, Aonach Eagach is fantastic: http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2013/02/aonach-eagach-winter/

HTH

Al

In reply to Anhibian:

Other than some of the ones mentioned in the article, then Hells Lum, on the crag of the similar name is a great route. Can be IV with a poor build up though

In reply to Anhibian:

Much of the Cuillin ridge goes at grade II/III and any winter traverse surpasses the mainland classics. The fragility of conditions only makes the experience more precious.

In reply to Anhibian:

A lot shorter than most on that list, but still a cracking wee route with excellent climbing and great protection I recommend 'Hidden Gully' II/III on the Mess of Potage. Curved Ridge on the Buchaille is also a great day out.

In reply to Anhibian:

I would add Penguin Gully on Beinn Dearg to the list, similar in style and difficulty to Left Twin, but much longer.

In reply to Anhibian:

Parallel Gully A in Lochnagar is also worth a mention, get it right and you get two good pitches on ice, then an airy traverse left high up on the route. Brilliant day out.

In reply to Anhibian:

North Gully (II) on the Ben is a good introduction to snowy/icy climbing found there and I thought it much better than the belaylessness of, say Number 2 Gully. Did Good Friday Climb (III) last year for the first time and that was great. Tower Scoop is steep for grade III but quite short and a good intro to 'proper' ice. However, careful with the top as it's potentially a bit of an avalanche trap. I also really enjoyed Dinnertime Buttress (I/II). It's a great short-day option (we were back at the car at 2pm, having left not long before 9!) that only requires frozen turf and a bit of a dusting.

In reply to Anhibian:

For solitude I'd recommend Cresta, for exposure No.3 Gully Buttress (both Ben Nevis), and for a mix of the two Centre Post (Creag Meagaidh). All IIIs and none of them easy in poor conditions or bad weather.

At II, I'd have to go for Ledge Route (the only 4 star II on the Ben), but only on a clear day when the views are spectacular.

In reply to Foxy:

Al - I think I was on AE Ridge the same day as you, fantastically good weather that day!

In reply to Anhibian:

Last winter I had a fabulous day out on Beinn Bhan by myself. I soloed North gully of A'chioch (felt more like III) and then did the traverse of A'chioch. Walking along the ridge the final steep section looked incredibly steep and intimidating, and I was planning on bailing out; however, it was actually ok although probably as hard as I would climb unroped.

In reply to Anhibian:

Hayfork Gully Left Branch, An Teallach, a hard I or an easy II but very, very atmospheric.

Also Lords Gully An Teallach, but the R Branch (unless in perfect nick) is more III than II and the L Branch more IV than III

In reply to Andrew Sloan:


I don't think it's Grade II very often these days when consolidated snow at that level is rare. Perhaps it should be upgraded?

In reply to Nick Barnard:

was a great day indeed

In reply to Anhibian:

Add Western Rib on Aonach Mor at II/III and Resurrection on Sgurr Mor at III, although perversely it felt like II on the solo.

In reply to Anhibian:

Last route of last winter was The Weep on Creise, and what a great way to finish the season it was!

In reply to Anhibian:

I thought including North Gully on Lurchers Crag in the list was an excellent call - provided an unexpected highlight in January last year in very icy nick! My favourite grade III to date, by far, has been Black Spout Buttress on Lochnagar. For a grade II/III leader it has massive adventure (epic?) written all over it!