UKC

Can anyone recommend decent crampons for climbing grades 4-6. Cheers

In reply to stephen ashworth:
Ones which for your boots well. Grivel, Petzl, Black Diamon, Camp, all make good ones. Mono, double or modular points as you see fit. It's the climber not the crampon. I've used monopoint g14s with scarpa phantoms up to m7, and I was the limiting factor!

In reply to stephen ashworth:

which boots (and size) do you have?

In reply to stephen ashworth:

Charlet moser darts (mono, lever lock - don't get the lever lock) - Best crampon I have used. Grivel G20's are very good also (lighter) but the metal is softer and does not last as long if used on granite. Great on water ice though.

Andy

In reply to CurlyStevo:

I like the Cyborgs myself also have a pair of Rambo 4s
The Cyborgs have been so Good I've barely used the
Rambos,Used on Trango Extremes no problems

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Sportiva batura 2 GTX size 46.

In reply to stevieweesaxs107:

I've got G14, Rambo IV and Sabretooths.

I could probably climb nearly all the climbs I've done in any of these, but they all perform slightly better on differing terrain.

My freneys are quite flexible for a B3 (partly down to having large size 46 feet), I find the Rambo's stiffen them up a wee bit whch is nice but they are a bit heavy compared with some of the modern mono's.

PS I've used the tent fly you sold me several times now, its been great, cheers again

In reply to andyinglis:

The Darts are great for climbing, but if you have big feet (size 48 for me) they can be lethal in easier walking/approaching crag situations. Simply not enough points. I've switched to Lynx, nearly as good climbing but a lot more secure steep ground.

In reply to Rogerwebb: Interesting Roger, I haven't heard a lot of first hand reports on the lynx crampons. Maybe get out for a NW adventure this winter if conditions line up!

In reply to stephen ashworth:

I have used Blackdiamond Sabretooth for years and been happy with them. I was persuaded last season to try monopoints for pushing mixed grade; I bought some Grivel G20s and think they are absolutely fantastic.

In reply to andyinglis:

Definitely up for that, plenty to do! There's bound to be good conditions sometime, (possibly quite soon).

In reply to andyinglis:

I have the G12's and the Lynx and think the lynx are good, 2 fitting options (newmatic & crampomatic) and the options of short or long and single or dual front points

In reply to andyinglis:


Interesting, I've only just swapped from Darts to G20's as I found the Darts a pain on easier ground and dangerous for walking descents.
So far, over the summer, I found the Grivel G20's easier to walk in and much easier to fit onto my boots. They seem much more secure compared to the Petzl Darts which popped off once on Poachers Fall!!!
I only use monos on water ice, but do you find the Darts last much longer than the G20's on granite?
On mixed I only use my oldest most knackered crampons but out of interest how long does a new pair actually last for on rock or rather how many hard routes?
I should also mention on mixed up to 5/6, I use a mix of old Airtechs, G12's and S12's. I've even been know to wear a different crampon on each boot!!!!
Cheers Ron

In reply to Ron Walker:

Hi, why were the darts a pain and dangerous? I was looking forward to taking them to Scotland. Should I be concerned aand swap them for something else?

In reply to stephen ashworth:

not ones fitted by Go Outdoors in Chester unless you want to wear them backwards

In reply to climber34neil:

Darts have no anti-balling plates.
G20s have one set of anti-balling plates on the rear section.

In reply to Ron Walker:
Interesting, I found the Darts to be the easiest to walk in out of the two. I also find them both just as secure after I swapped the Petzl lever for a Grivel one, but with the G20 needing more work to get a good fit on the the narrow Scarpa soles. Both wear about the same but I haven't climbed granit for a while.

In reply to blackreaver:

Yeah , I was under the impression that its not an issue with the darts , gaffa tape would sort that if need be I guess. I thought the darts would be more stable decending as well due to the inward facing points on the rear of the front section. Any dart users had problems balling up or unstable when facing out?

In reply to blackreaver:


while Cyborgs have them both front and rear

In reply to Michael Gordon:


but so do G14s which would be the closest competitor

In reply to stephen ashworth:

Darts without a doubt. Brilliant to climb in

In reply to climber34neil:


Depends on the size of your feet. Darts have two less downward points than say Lynx. If you have large feet, like me, the lack of points is notable and compared to lynx it can feel like your wearing roller skates on easier steep ground.. If you have smaller feet its not a problem.
Darts are brilliant for the climbing bit,

In reply to rogerwebb:

I have pretty big feet and ive never had a problem with walking in darts. They do tend to ball up but you just have to tap them with your axe occasionally. I honestly wouldn't buy anything else

In reply to naffan



Well each to his own, but I switched to Lynx after wearing out three pairs of Darts and would never switch back.

Its not the balling up, though it is a pain, its the lack of points on rough steep icy ground.

In reply to stephen ashworth:
I have Grivel Rambo Evo 4s and Airtechs. I think the Rambos are too heavy and wouldn't recommend them for much. The Airtechs are great for moderate terrain. Haven't used them in anger on anything hard.

Looking at the current crop I think you would be best served by a Petzl Lynx or BD Stinger (mate of mine loves his). Unless you can afford the £100+ replacement cost for the Petzl Dart monos/Grivel G20s every time you wear out the front points, I think the 100gr per pair extra weight is worth it for having replaceable front points.

Obviously marginally less stiff than the G20/Darts but for the routes you're looking at it won't make a hoot of difference.

Remember, Will Gadd uses Sabretooths:

"I use Sabertooth crampons, which feature dual horizontal frontpoints and the best under-foot points I've used. I very rarely climb on monos anymore, they simply don't work very well for the chandeleried and very thin ice I commonly climb on. Don't knock these crampons until you try them; my partners often look at them like I'm about to break out a hemp rope next, but they are truly amazing rigs. They are the only crampons I've ever used that you can truly smear with, plus the points seem to work really well for snow-covered scrambling/alpinsim. I use one horizontal as a mono when that's called for. I also like the new Makos with the Lacerator kit, they're a huge improvement over the Switchblades"

In reply to rogerwebb:

Thatsxwhat I was hoping for, I am size 7 so should be great, thanks

In reply to climber34neil:

Yes you'll be fine, and they are a superb climbing crampon.

In reply to blackreaver:

the newer model darts have a rear anti balling plate...

In reply to cliff shasby:

Not on their website or in any site I can find.

In reply to blackreaver:

im guessing its because all the websites are using the old image and petzl themselves cant be arsed with a new image,i bought mine from go-outdoors last year with an already fitted rear anti balling plates.

In reply to cliff shasby:


Interestingly, Ueli Steck uses Gaffa Tape on his Petzl Dart Crampons and has spike rather than a handle on his modified Nomics!
See http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/ueli-stecks-secret-kit-room-%7C-epictv-...

In reply to Ron Walker:


The bastard - pinching my ideas again! He'll be trying to climb my routes next!

Actually for the first darts you could cobble anti-ball plates from sarken crampons to fit, the rear was almost identical while the front could be engineered to match, but also needs a bit of duct tape to finish the job.

In reply to Simon4:

After a few nightmare ascents using technical crampons on soft snow, I could never really understand why the two leading manufactures didn't actually fit antibots to the Petzl Darts and the Grivel G20's apart from the extra weight with each claiming to have the lightest technical crampon.

It's a bit hypocritical especially from companies promoting safety, the fact that sponsored athletes and alpine guides using their products, feel the need to improvise with Gaffa Tape or need to modify their products.

Just my thoughts and I'm sure there is a reason for not producing a front antibot!!!!

In reply to Ron Walker:

My thoughts too

In reply to Ron Walker:


I entirely agree, since a very long time ago after a traumatic incident on the summit ridge of the Aiguille du Bionassay I have been convinced that any crampon without anti-ball plates is death on a stick.

Having said that, the bodge job works quite well - before I added the gaffer tape snow used to force itself under the ill-fitting plate to form hardened compacted lumps, even though it didn't really ball up. Since the tape, it is pretty immune even to that.

In reply to An Triubhas:

Saw that pic

In reply to stephen ashworth:


i miss-read the topic as tampons, not crampons