UKC

Headed down to the Lizard for a few days over new year. The guide is currently residing in devon and I'm up north, so can't look at the moment. Are there any decent beginner friendly crags out there? Both steady multi pitch up to VS and some single pitch stuff would be good! I'm reasonably competent, but taking some friends out who have done very little/non, if the weather plays ball.


cheers

In reply to dunnyg:

There's, er, that classic spacewalking Severe at whatever that crag is called with the classic spacewalking Severe on it. IME though the VSses on the crag are rather stiff and perhaps not best suited for your purpose.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Sirius is it?

Pen Olver's maybe the spot for sub VS single pitch slabs.

In reply to dunnyg:

Pen Oliver single pitch, but very pretty and lovely stuff for beginners, and a lovely pool if you look at low tide and its warm enough!
M

In reply to Tom Last:

Sirius, indeed. Actually looking at the database I see the two VSses I had in mind are now both HVS. Maybe the others are fine. Although Sirius didn't strike me as a brilliant HS for nervous seconds either.

jcm

In reply to dunnyg:

Sennon is well worth a days climbing. Good mix of singal and multi pitch stuff. Some classic commando routes. Plus Lizard Long Climb is a good day out, just watch out for the over priced pasties in the hotel cafe.

In reply to luggs von lucas:

Errr....

jcm

In reply to dunnyg:

David Hope is currently working on a new CC stand-alone guide to The Lizard. There are many quality new routes up to VS, particularly at Predannack Head and in the Bass Rock area. I believe he's almost finished the manuscript so if you email me here I can pass on your request to him, although he may be away at the moment. Check out the CC new routes section of their website and also http://javu.co.uk

The best multi pitch tends to be in the HVS+ range. If the weather's anything like try the Vellan Headslab routes. You need low tide and a reasonably calm sea but there are a number of pleasant pitches from Mod - Diff on the slabby east side of the headland. Hollywood Walls are worth a visit for VS. Non tidal.

Thanks for all the info!

In reply to luggs von lucas:

Theyre not on The Lizard.

In reply to dunnyg:

Further to this, Trewavas is generally the most popular spot for family friendly climbing in that area. Whilst it's not technically on The Lizard, it's nearby and near Helston. Trewavas is exclusively single pitch, on good solid granite - although of an unusual type - and is for the most part right next to the coast path. As an added bonus there's large gearing up areas both above and below the climbs, also ideal for just lounging about. Most of the climbs are far above the sea, but there are a handful of decent outings at sea-level which have been done in the course of writing the chapter up for the guidebook, so feel free to email me if you want further specific information; otherwise there's plenty of existing routes detailed in the CC guide and a handful in the Rockfax guide. Trewavas probably gets the best of the weather relative to other crags in this part of Cornwall, there's also beaches nearby.

HTH,
Tom

In reply to The Pylon King:

Ah, but they are just around the corner and well worth a look.