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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (352) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=572576
Posters:
AJM
mrchewy - cracking week! Good job on the V3. Especially impressed though with you staying drunk for so long
mbh - not a good time of year for unencumbered training time, but hopefully you followed through on your good intentions this week! Progress towards your notable milestone?
Nick Russell - how did those last 5 days go then? Bear in mind if you're trashing yourself with yoga too that's going to impact your recovery times for the wall and fingerboard and stuff...
hms - hope things went better this week. Keep plugging away with the dynamism, it will come!
mattrm - a low motivational week... Annoying when they strip stuff at the wall when you've invested time into it, a tricky middle ground to be found between that and leaving stuff up forever! What do you have to report on: "Next week, I will exercise every day and not eat badly."?
Eagle River - you could always add some indoor goals if you feel you're a bit over-focused Sounds like the usual indoor brutality. Did you get back to Malham? Goal for Spain?
grubes - sounds like a good Saturday session. When are you thinking of going to Ceuse?
Jamming Dodger - very cheery sounding post I reckon, with a bit of shuffling, that you matched up with the plan not too badly really!
porkpiegirl - sounds like some pretty brutal wall sessions. Exciting progress with the board too!
Nomics4sale - sounds like you know what you need to do - did you put that into action this week?
Mark Torrance - physio visit planned yet?
Sankey - Siurana is ace, you'll love it
IainRUK - how's the foot coming along?
TheNewNickB - busy week - did you manage to get more done this week as you thought?
DanDan82 - sounds like good injury recovery on one front, but be careful with those elbows - if you're writing "elbows exploded" at the end of a good hard session that's a definite flashing red warning light!
Ally Smith - a week of many achievements - progress on 7Cs, onsight crushing, bridge jumping, and managing to go home alone!
Exile - this time of year is always the grey changeover time between rock and winter, a good time for reflection...
Luke Owens - sounds like the rest did you good!
AndrewW - how's the sore finger? Good variety of stuff done regardless though
ERU - injury free as planned?
Curious Yellow - enjoy Turkey!
Tyler - Montgrony, tell me more? There's a Rockfax miniguide so I was considering a stop for a day or two on our way south.
Mr Cowdrey - big grade jump - I assume you can jump so far because the main thing holding you back is lack of rock time? From what is been told La Creme is ferociously bouldery which implies you're not lacking on the strength front...
RM199 - sounds like a good week. I really need to try ntbta at some point.
biscuit - "Flashed another V5 to prove it was injured, it was" - the perfect summing up of what daftness looks like? Beastmaker back up and working at a wall - I'm expecting you to take the "biggest improver" goal for 2014!
maria85 - are you sure its the 4 climbing sessions rather than the cumulative training load? Given the amount of other stuff you do potentially its just cumulative lack of recovery time that's doing it?
Ali - looking forwards to Christmas because you can go running - crazy...
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (352) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=572576
Posters:
AJM
mrchewy - cracking week! Good job on the V3. Especially impressed though with you staying drunk for so long
mbh - not a good time of year for unencumbered training time, but hopefully you followed through on your good intentions this week! Progress towards your notable milestone?
Nick Russell - how did those last 5 days go then? Bear in mind if you're trashing yourself with yoga too that's going to impact your recovery times for the wall and fingerboard and stuff...
hms - hope things went better this week. Keep plugging away with the dynamism, it will come!
mattrm - a low motivational week... Annoying when they strip stuff at the wall when you've invested time into it, a tricky middle ground to be found between that and leaving stuff up forever! What do you have to report on: "Next week, I will exercise every day and not eat badly."?
Eagle River - you could always add some indoor goals if you feel you're a bit over-focused Sounds like the usual indoor brutality. Did you get back to Malham? Goal for Spain?
grubes - sounds like a good Saturday session. When are you thinking of going to Ceuse?
Jamming Dodger - very cheery sounding post I reckon, with a bit of shuffling, that you matched up with the plan not too badly really!
porkpiegirl - sounds like some pretty brutal wall sessions. Exciting progress with the board too!
Nomics4sale - sounds like you know what you need to do - did you put that into action this week?
Mark Torrance - physio visit planned yet?
Sankey - Siurana is ace, you'll love it
IainRUK - how's the foot coming along?
TheNewNickB - busy week - did you manage to get more done this week as you thought?
DanDan82 - sounds like good injury recovery on one front, but be careful with those elbows - if you're writing "elbows exploded" at the end of a good hard session that's a definite flashing red warning light!
Ally Smith - a week of many achievements - progress on 7Cs, onsight crushing, bridge jumping, and managing to go home alone!
Exile - this time of year is always the grey changeover time between rock and winter, a good time for reflection...
Luke Owens - sounds like the rest did you good!
AndrewW - how's the sore finger? Good variety of stuff done regardless though
ERU - injury free as planned?
Curious Yellow - enjoy Turkey!
Tyler - Montgrony, tell me more? There's a Rockfax miniguide so I was considering a stop for a day or two on our way south.
Mr Cowdrey - big grade jump - I assume you can jump so far because the main thing holding you back is lack of rock time? From what is been told La Creme is ferociously bouldery which implies you're not lacking on the strength front...
RM199 - sounds like a good week. I really need to try ntbta at some point.
biscuit - "Flashed another V5 to prove it was injured, it was" - the perfect summing up of what daftness looks like? Beastmaker back up and working at a wall - I'm expecting you to take the "biggest improver" goal for 2014!
maria85 - are you sure its the 4 climbing sessions rather than the cumulative training load? Given the amount of other stuff you do potentially its just cumulative lack of recovery time that's doing it?
Ali - looking forwards to Christmas because you can go running - crazy...
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy
Good point about the goals, indoor goals seem a little difficult because the grading is a bit haphazard but the goal for Spain, which has been thoroughly derided by other fit club posters at the wall this week, is to onsight a 7a, maybe a 7a+.
The general consensus was that having an entire number between your best redpoint (8a) and best onsight (*cough*, 6c, *cough*) is ludicrous. I can see their point. I've flashed 7a before but have only tried maybe 4/5 times to onsight one as yorkshire limestone doesn't lend itself to onsighting and most of the 7a's at Malham I'd worked already when first getting into sport climbing. The trip in Jan will be spent trying to onsight everything, not get drawn into redpointing like on previous trips.
Mon: Indoor routes. Ticked off the pink 7c first go of the session, continued with doubles.
Wed: indoor routes. More doubles, fun session getting mocked for my onsighting skills, or lack thereof.
Thurs: yoga, strong session
Fri: Yoga, 1.5hr class of a full ashtanga primary series. Felt beasted afterwards
Sat: indoor routes, ticked off a pesky 7b and had some goes at the new orange 7c as that's the only route above 7a I've not ticked on that side of the wall (still 4 routes on Mammut wall that I've not done).
Heavy week, the yoga was ace and I'm still aching from it along with the usual aches from 3 hard route sessions. Won't get as much in between now and new year but hopefully two climbs and 1 yoga next week.
Thanks Andy
Good point about the goals, indoor goals seem a little difficult because the grading is a bit haphazard but the goal for Spain, which has been thoroughly derided by other fit club posters at the wall this week, is to onsight a 7a, maybe a 7a+.
The general consensus was that having an entire number between your best redpoint (8a) and best onsight (*cough*, 6c, *cough*) is ludicrous. I can see their point. I've flashed 7a before but have only tried maybe 4/5 times to onsight one as yorkshire limestone doesn't lend itself to onsighting and most of the 7a's at Malham I'd worked already when first getting into sport climbing. The trip in Jan will be spent trying to onsight everything, not get drawn into redpointing like on previous trips.
Mon: Indoor routes. Ticked off the pink 7c first go of the session, continued with doubles.
Wed: indoor routes. More doubles, fun session getting mocked for my onsighting skills, or lack thereof.
Thurs: yoga, strong session
Fri: Yoga, 1.5hr class of a full ashtanga primary series. Felt beasted afterwards
Sat: indoor routes, ticked off a pesky 7b and had some goes at the new orange 7c as that's the only route above 7a I've not ticked on that side of the wall (still 4 routes on Mammut wall that I've not done).
Heavy week, the yoga was ace and I'm still aching from it along with the usual aches from 3 hard route sessions. Won't get as much in between now and new year but hopefully two climbs and 1 yoga next week.
In reply to Eagle River:
And there was me hoping that you would have all the beta sorted out for me by the time we arrived! That grade split does make me look like a comparative onsight pro though!!!
As predicted nothing climbing specific this week. Fair amount of physical work packing the house away tempered by overeating at leaving dos and the like. Hopefully get a bit more dome this week, wall tomorrow maybe (biscuit factory of there are bored Londoners about), maybe a bit of jogging or something and I might try and do some pushups and core and things just to be doing something!
And there was me hoping that you would have all the beta sorted out for me by the time we arrived! That grade split does make me look like a comparative onsight pro though!!!
As predicted nothing climbing specific this week. Fair amount of physical work packing the house away tempered by overeating at leaving dos and the like. Hopefully get a bit more dome this week, wall tomorrow maybe (biscuit factory of there are bored Londoners about), maybe a bit of jogging or something and I might try and do some pushups and core and things just to be doing something!
In reply to AJM:
> grubes - sounds like a good Saturday session. When are you thinking of going to Ceuse?
April / may depending on partners In reply to grubes:
We went start of May this year, and when it was good weather temps were perfect, but it was still pretty unreliable weather wise. We bailed to Chateauvert for the last 4 days of our trip - based on the reports from the guys who stayed it out down an inch of water a day for 4 days. There was still some snow on the north side of the massif I seem to recall.
I think we might swing by for a little bit sometime in June on the van trip.
We went start of May this year, and when it was good weather temps were perfect, but it was still pretty unreliable weather wise. We bailed to Chateauvert for the last 4 days of our trip - based on the reports from the guys who stayed it out down an inch of water a day for 4 days. There was still some snow on the north side of the massif I seem to recall.
I think we might swing by for a little bit sometime in June on the van trip.
In reply to AJM + Grubes:
We were the guys who stayed, so i'll echo the unreliable weather sentiment.
Still managed to climb most days by heading down to Volx but it wasn't an enjoyable week or so of weather. Climbing in snow showers with freezing cold hands is not recommended.
If you are in a tent its a pretty shit place to be in weather like that, the dirty horse shed gets old pretty quick.
By the end of May weather was much more reliable, though a bit too warm for some on the walk up.
I've been in Ceuse across most of the summer on various trips and would recommend late may/early june if you can.
We were the guys who stayed, so i'll echo the unreliable weather sentiment.
Still managed to climb most days by heading down to Volx but it wasn't an enjoyable week or so of weather. Climbing in snow showers with freezing cold hands is not recommended.
If you are in a tent its a pretty shit place to be in weather like that, the dirty horse shed gets old pretty quick.
By the end of May weather was much more reliable, though a bit too warm for some on the walk up.
I've been in Ceuse across most of the summer on various trips and would recommend late may/early june if you can.
In reply to AJM:
A couple of years ago I don't think I'd have thought the phrase "trashing yourself with yoga" could ever be used seriously. But yes, I am aware that my training volume has been pretty high over the last couple of weeks so it's not too surprising if I have the odd poor fingerboard session! This past week was good, despite being afflicted with a minor cold, managed to ignore it and get on with things for the most part.
M - swimming (2.1km)
T - climbing at TCA
W - yoga, swimming (2.5km)
T - rest (first proper rest day in 2 weeks, definitely a good idea)
F - climbing at TCA
S - 8km run, 4:54/km
S - nothing, back home for Christmas
I definitely noticed some progress in the bouldering, it seems to be mostly a case of remembering how to do it after not going for so long! On Friday, I was getting the body positions right a lot quicker, remembering how hard I can pull, and climbing more dynamically. Shame I'm not going to go for another 3 weeks now!
I've also just planned a trip to Scotland after Christmas, 3 climbing days... Fingers crossed we get some conditions and the storms ease off enough for us to actually climb something!
Short-term goals (December)
4 fingerboard sessions before 21/12 2/4, failed on this front
Bouldering: Find out roughly where my current limit is (grade-wise) on the mothership at TCA. Well, I feel confident in saying that I was getting the 6C problems pretty quickly. I did one that was given 7A, but it didn't feel much harder, so probably an anomaly.
Trad: It would be nice to get one more 'big tick' before Christmas. Tick! Crow, Cheddar
Medium-term goals (2013)
Sport: 7a flash. Tick: onsight Raw Deal
Sport: 7b+ pyramid. Managed 7/8@7a, 3/4@7a+, 1/2@7b, 1/1@7b+. Top level ticked, a few missing on the base.
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some! Tick! Wings of Unreason (E4), Arms Race (E4), Last Slip (E3), Crow (E3)
Incidental: get a car. Done
> Nick Russell - how did those last 5 days go then? Bear in mind if you're trashing yourself with yoga too that's going to impact your recovery times for the wall and fingerboard and stuff...
A couple of years ago I don't think I'd have thought the phrase "trashing yourself with yoga" could ever be used seriously. But yes, I am aware that my training volume has been pretty high over the last couple of weeks so it's not too surprising if I have the odd poor fingerboard session! This past week was good, despite being afflicted with a minor cold, managed to ignore it and get on with things for the most part.
M - swimming (2.1km)
T - climbing at TCA
W - yoga, swimming (2.5km)
T - rest (first proper rest day in 2 weeks, definitely a good idea)
F - climbing at TCA
S - 8km run, 4:54/km
S - nothing, back home for Christmas
I definitely noticed some progress in the bouldering, it seems to be mostly a case of remembering how to do it after not going for so long! On Friday, I was getting the body positions right a lot quicker, remembering how hard I can pull, and climbing more dynamically. Shame I'm not going to go for another 3 weeks now!
I've also just planned a trip to Scotland after Christmas, 3 climbing days... Fingers crossed we get some conditions and the storms ease off enough for us to actually climb something!
Short-term goals (December)
4 fingerboard sessions before 21/12 2/4, failed on this front
Bouldering: Find out roughly where my current limit is (grade-wise) on the mothership at TCA. Well, I feel confident in saying that I was getting the 6C problems pretty quickly. I did one that was given 7A, but it didn't feel much harder, so probably an anomaly.
Trad: It would be nice to get one more 'big tick' before Christmas. Tick! Crow, Cheddar
Medium-term goals (2013)
Sport: 7a flash. Tick: onsight Raw Deal
Sport: 7b+ pyramid. Managed 7/8@7a, 3/4@7a+, 1/2@7b, 1/1@7b+. Top level ticked, a few missing on the base.
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some! Tick! Wings of Unreason (E4), Arms Race (E4), Last Slip (E3), Crow (E3)
Incidental: get a car. Done
In reply to AJM:
Drinking... I'll be glad when December is over, it's taking it's toll this year. Did manage to stay relatively sober whilst watching Placebo at Brixton Academy but at £4.90 a pint I wasn't overly inspired to get drunk.
Took it easy this week as there's been so much going on but weight is much the same, half a kilo either side of 78kg.
Tue - Boulder and traverse for an hour, then routes (!!!) for a couple. Tried onsighting a couple of vertical and techie 6bs and came to the conclusion that redpointing may have some merit after all. Had my arse kicked.
Sat - Boulder. My first V3 flash indoors. Worked another V3, sorted foot beta now to get round my dodgy wrist, so that should go today or tomorrow. Worked the V5 on the slab, progress and had a go at a V6 that's soft. Mmmm.
If the hangover goes, I'll get bouldering later. Done a pile squats etc this week too.
Two good sessions - really pleased with the V3 flash, fingers felt strong for a change. Totally ignored anything overhanging from 30deg upwards this set and it seems to have paid dividends, my thinking being that I won't be climbing anything like that outside.
Goals for 2013 were 3 x E1s, 6b outside and a V4.
Not having done any trad since Aug has meant I've been stuck on one E1 but I may get on the slate before NY, so that might still happen.
A broken hold stopped me onsighting a 6b in the Ariege but I've just not got any psyche for redpointing or sport. Again, if I get in the quarries before NY, that may change.
V4 seems a way away but now V3 is happening easier, maybe I should just work one for a while. Font kicked my arse. Need to get up to the Peak on my own this winter I think.
Not too sure I'm going to set any target goals for 2014. I think I just need to try harder and progress will come, the Smart Climbing course gave me plenty to think about. Unsure as to what I'll be doing from June onwards, I may well just head off in the van for six months and thus setting specific targets makes no sense at this point in time.
Heading to Wales on Xmas evening for three weeks maybe, so not sure when I'll post next.
Happy Hols to one and all!
Drinking... I'll be glad when December is over, it's taking it's toll this year. Did manage to stay relatively sober whilst watching Placebo at Brixton Academy but at £4.90 a pint I wasn't overly inspired to get drunk.
Took it easy this week as there's been so much going on but weight is much the same, half a kilo either side of 78kg.
Tue - Boulder and traverse for an hour, then routes (!!!) for a couple. Tried onsighting a couple of vertical and techie 6bs and came to the conclusion that redpointing may have some merit after all. Had my arse kicked.
Sat - Boulder. My first V3 flash indoors. Worked another V3, sorted foot beta now to get round my dodgy wrist, so that should go today or tomorrow. Worked the V5 on the slab, progress and had a go at a V6 that's soft. Mmmm.
If the hangover goes, I'll get bouldering later. Done a pile squats etc this week too.
Two good sessions - really pleased with the V3 flash, fingers felt strong for a change. Totally ignored anything overhanging from 30deg upwards this set and it seems to have paid dividends, my thinking being that I won't be climbing anything like that outside.
Goals for 2013 were 3 x E1s, 6b outside and a V4.
Not having done any trad since Aug has meant I've been stuck on one E1 but I may get on the slate before NY, so that might still happen.
A broken hold stopped me onsighting a 6b in the Ariege but I've just not got any psyche for redpointing or sport. Again, if I get in the quarries before NY, that may change.
V4 seems a way away but now V3 is happening easier, maybe I should just work one for a while. Font kicked my arse. Need to get up to the Peak on my own this winter I think.
Not too sure I'm going to set any target goals for 2014. I think I just need to try harder and progress will come, the Smart Climbing course gave me plenty to think about. Unsure as to what I'll be doing from June onwards, I may well just head off in the van for six months and thus setting specific targets makes no sense at this point in time.
Heading to Wales on Xmas evening for three weeks maybe, so not sure when I'll post next.
Happy Hols to one and all!
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for the summary AJM. The voting from Cyprus is as follows:
Week spent mostly on project.
M - Resting (hung over).
T - Vacuuming rat droppings from loft.
W - Working on project and trying not to get shot. Worked out new sequence to compensate for snapped hold. Now firmly on red-point attempts.
T - Resting.
F- Drizzling so laps on 6c+ which remains dry.
S - Resting.
S - First real red-point attempts at project. Three full on attempts, got close each time (felt super easy up to crux move), but no big cigar. Next attempts scheduled for Wednesday.
That's all folks.
(forgot to wish everyone happy Christmas (forgot it was nearly Christmas!)).
Thanks for the summary AJM. The voting from Cyprus is as follows:
Week spent mostly on project.
M - Resting (hung over).
T - Vacuuming rat droppings from loft.
W - Working on project and trying not to get shot. Worked out new sequence to compensate for snapped hold. Now firmly on red-point attempts.
T - Resting.
F- Drizzling so laps on 6c+ which remains dry.
S - Resting.
S - First real red-point attempts at project. Three full on attempts, got close each time (felt super easy up to crux move), but no big cigar. Next attempts scheduled for Wednesday.
That's all folks.
(forgot to wish everyone happy Christmas (forgot it was nearly Christmas!)).
Post edited at 14:31
In reply to AndrewW:
m: 35km exercise bike
t: 6.5 mile treadmill run, 3-10% incline
w; 8 mile trail run 9:00 pace, foot sore
t: 5 mile trail run 8;40 pace
f: rest day, x-ray on foot, toe fractured
s: 1 hour exercise bike.. 20 miles or so
s: 26 miles on the road bike.. cold and windy, around the mearns
m: 35km exercise bike
t: 6.5 mile treadmill run, 3-10% incline
w; 8 mile trail run 9:00 pace, foot sore
t: 5 mile trail run 8;40 pace
f: rest day, x-ray on foot, toe fractured
s: 1 hour exercise bike.. 20 miles or so
s: 26 miles on the road bike.. cold and windy, around the mearns
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for the summary. It's not so much the time of year that gets in the way of training, as it is me not being quite able to mix work and running as I could at this time last year. The problem, at least partly is that I am running further, although I have stopped swimming, and when I feel too tired to do what I had intended to do, I tend to do nothing rather than just do less.
Anyway, I had formed a vague aim to get to 2500 miles of running this year, thinking that would be a nice round number, but a very shaky couple of weeks recently meant that it was beginning to look all but beyond me. However, last Monday morning, with 16 days of the year left, I noticed that I had 160 miles left to do and foolishly mused on here about whether I could do it. Can I do the equivalent of 16 x 10 mile days on the trot?
Well, I am more than on track so far: 7 days gone and 81 miles done, plus 1600 m ascent. 9 days and 79 miles to go. Most of it was slow, but a few miles weren't so bad.
79 miles still seems like a long way.
M - 10 miles, 5.1 miles
T - 8.2 miles
W - 10.4 miles - awful weather, lost, running through puddles the size of lakes.
T - 10.1 miles - lost again.
F - 8 miles, flat, 7:30 pace
S - 15 miles
S - 5 miles, 9.3 miles with 3 in the middle at 7:35-ish pace.
I put my most of my runs and bike rides back to the end of January onto Strava, and found out either that cycling is much more popular than running, or that Strava is much more popular with cyclists than it is with runners. A few running leader boards I am on have 40-50 runners, but most have less than 10, 5 even. I have only done a few rides locally in the last year, but all threw up segments with 200+ riders.
Thanks for the summary. It's not so much the time of year that gets in the way of training, as it is me not being quite able to mix work and running as I could at this time last year. The problem, at least partly is that I am running further, although I have stopped swimming, and when I feel too tired to do what I had intended to do, I tend to do nothing rather than just do less.
Anyway, I had formed a vague aim to get to 2500 miles of running this year, thinking that would be a nice round number, but a very shaky couple of weeks recently meant that it was beginning to look all but beyond me. However, last Monday morning, with 16 days of the year left, I noticed that I had 160 miles left to do and foolishly mused on here about whether I could do it. Can I do the equivalent of 16 x 10 mile days on the trot?
Well, I am more than on track so far: 7 days gone and 81 miles done, plus 1600 m ascent. 9 days and 79 miles to go. Most of it was slow, but a few miles weren't so bad.
79 miles still seems like a long way.
M - 10 miles, 5.1 miles
T - 8.2 miles
W - 10.4 miles - awful weather, lost, running through puddles the size of lakes.
T - 10.1 miles - lost again.
F - 8 miles, flat, 7:30 pace
S - 15 miles
S - 5 miles, 9.3 miles with 3 in the middle at 7:35-ish pace.
I put my most of my runs and bike rides back to the end of January onto Strava, and found out either that cycling is much more popular than running, or that Strava is much more popular with cyclists than it is with runners. A few running leader boards I am on have 40-50 runners, but most have less than 10, 5 even. I have only done a few rides locally in the last year, but all threw up segments with 200+ riders.
Post edited at 15:49
In reply to AJM:
Thats a very thorough write up! You have far more patience than me, so thanks.
Feeling very cheery in fact. Ive gone from having the most utterly shit start to the year and feeling like i'd gladly steer my bike under a lorry to being pretty bloody happy (it took a while). Life is full of surprises so i'm not willing to write off 2013.
Anyway, what have I done this week... Not a huge amount. Just three commutes into work (84 miles). Wow, rubbish really but better than being a crisp munching couch potato all week. I do need to prioritise things a bit more though I think.
Spain next Saturday so I won't be posting next week. Im looking forward to having a picnic on a belay ledge without a care in the world. Yippeee!
Oh, and Happy Christmas everybody
Thats a very thorough write up! You have far more patience than me, so thanks.
Feeling very cheery in fact. Ive gone from having the most utterly shit start to the year and feeling like i'd gladly steer my bike under a lorry to being pretty bloody happy (it took a while). Life is full of surprises so i'm not willing to write off 2013.
Anyway, what have I done this week... Not a huge amount. Just three commutes into work (84 miles). Wow, rubbish really but better than being a crisp munching couch potato all week. I do need to prioritise things a bit more though I think.
Spain next Saturday so I won't be posting next week. Im looking forward to having a picnic on a belay ledge without a care in the world. Yippeee!
Oh, and Happy Christmas everybody
Post edited at 15:54
Despite the home situation still being a tad tense, managed against all expectations to get quite a lot done.
Mon: dozen routes at UCR, back-to-back pairs. Included several 6cs and a 6c onsight but can't remember trying anything harder. Got quite busy.
Weds: fingerboard for hour. Deadhang, 1/2 lock & full lock on most of the hold types. Still can't do the slopiest sloper or the smallest crimp.
Thurs: another dozen routes at UCR. again, back-to-back pairs but this time managed to sneak some harder ones into the mix. Tried a new 7a - got to 2nd clip from the top. Worked the bits of another 7a that I'd previously tried and managed to do the moves - so now need to see if I can string it all together Came off a 7a+ at the place I always seem to so need to work that seq again.
Fri: TCA trying a few more of the comp probs, the new black problems (bit too easy) and the new circuits. V sharp. In evening did a whole load of sit ups, (girly) press-ups and core stuff.
Sat: rest
Sun: Redpoint, ack-to-back pairs. Find the grades there quite hard, but prob cos the style uses more blobs and foot smears. Got a 6c clean which I had struggled to clip before - needed to hurl myself at it more and stop worrying about the clipping.
So, a good week. Feeling strong, and trying very hard to move dynamically & use momentum, Doesn't come naturally, but am possibly starting to see a few gains from it.
Coming week probably won't amount to much, but will try not to veg out too badly!!
Mon: dozen routes at UCR, back-to-back pairs. Included several 6cs and a 6c onsight but can't remember trying anything harder. Got quite busy.
Weds: fingerboard for hour. Deadhang, 1/2 lock & full lock on most of the hold types. Still can't do the slopiest sloper or the smallest crimp.
Thurs: another dozen routes at UCR. again, back-to-back pairs but this time managed to sneak some harder ones into the mix. Tried a new 7a - got to 2nd clip from the top. Worked the bits of another 7a that I'd previously tried and managed to do the moves - so now need to see if I can string it all together Came off a 7a+ at the place I always seem to so need to work that seq again.
Fri: TCA trying a few more of the comp probs, the new black problems (bit too easy) and the new circuits. V sharp. In evening did a whole load of sit ups, (girly) press-ups and core stuff.
Sat: rest
Sun: Redpoint, ack-to-back pairs. Find the grades there quite hard, but prob cos the style uses more blobs and foot smears. Got a 6c clean which I had struggled to clip before - needed to hurl myself at it more and stop worrying about the clipping.
So, a good week. Feeling strong, and trying very hard to move dynamically & use momentum, Doesn't come naturally, but am possibly starting to see a few gains from it.
Coming week probably won't amount to much, but will try not to veg out too badly!!
In reply to Eagle River:
>but the goal for Spain, which has been thoroughly derided by other fit club posters at the wall this week, is to onsight a 7a, maybe a 7a+.
I suspect you'll do just fine, I reliably on-sight at least a grade harder abroad than in the UK. Whereabouts in Spain are you going? Costa Blanca and, even more so, El Chorro seemed pretty good on-sight territory to me (lots of steep but straight forward "keep throwing between the chalkiest holds"). Siurana maybe less so - bit crimpier and more technical on the whole (though I still managed to on-sight a soft 7b and a few 7a+ and 7as in November).
>but the goal for Spain, which has been thoroughly derided by other fit club posters at the wall this week, is to onsight a 7a, maybe a 7a+.
I suspect you'll do just fine, I reliably on-sight at least a grade harder abroad than in the UK. Whereabouts in Spain are you going? Costa Blanca and, even more so, El Chorro seemed pretty good on-sight territory to me (lots of steep but straight forward "keep throwing between the chalkiest holds"). Siurana maybe less so - bit crimpier and more technical on the whole (though I still managed to on-sight a soft 7b and a few 7a+ and 7as in November).
In reply to AJM:
Oops missed last week but nothing to report anyway as sorting last minute things with regards to leaving my job to run my own business. Last day done and I'm now on my own! Exciting times ahead.
This week:
M: 30 mins turbo session
T: Nothing
W: Nothing
T: Nothing
F: Nothing
S: 30km mountain bike ride
S: Bouldering at Apparent North but short session as the wind was just piercing! Lower boulders too damp.
Oops missed last week but nothing to report anyway as sorting last minute things with regards to leaving my job to run my own business. Last day done and I'm now on my own! Exciting times ahead.
This week:
M: 30 mins turbo session
T: Nothing
W: Nothing
T: Nothing
F: Nothing
S: 30km mountain bike ride
S: Bouldering at Apparent North but short session as the wind was just piercing! Lower boulders too damp.
In reply to Eagle River:
Just remember by the way, standard rule of 3, which I also fail on, suggests 7b+ onsight should be plausible for a man of your prodigious redpointing skills
Just remember by the way, standard rule of 3, which I also fail on, suggests 7b+ onsight should be plausible for a man of your prodigious redpointing skills
In reply to AJM: Thanks Andy,
I've been taking some time off FC club recently with climbing slipping down the list of priorities, and to be honest posting today is a little pointless but I've got to get back into it somehow!
Mon - Interview at Exeter, went pretty well, smiled a lot and didn't say anything stupid so fingers crossed! Went to The Quay climbing wall to check it out, it's pretty good. The main wall has a great set of routes with about 8 being 7c or harder. Not so good bouldering but apparently there's dedicated bouldering centres around too. Warmed up then onsighted 6c+, 7b, 7b. Still getting insanely pumped on everything but I'm getting better at managing the insane pump now.
Tue - rest
Wed - think I had a short session on the wall at home, discovered I've had my feet wrong for cross-over moves for my entire life! Finished with some core and pull-ups.
Thurs - Glasgow interview - I've toured the length of the country this week - not quite as good but hopefully still okay. Too mentally exhausted for any more training.
Fri - last day of school and almost all of my interviews over so I got wreckoed to celebrate, fun night.
Sat - had a lazy day recovering
Sun - went on a very hilly, very cold, and extremely muddy run (ankle deep in places) not sure how far or how fast but I was running and wading for an hour and a half! Good character building stuff.
Earlier in the month I've also had my interview at Newcastle, which didn't go so well, I think I was a bit nervous as it was my first interview. Also had the Youth Opens, bouldering went much better than last year but leading was worse. Bit sad about having to sacrifice it but I'm getting fitter, slowly.
The main objective is training for Chorro in Feb, goals are to O/S 7c or maybe try redpointing an 8a over a couple of days if I'm feeling strong and find one that inspires me - Lourdes looks amazing.
Cheers, Jake
I've been taking some time off FC club recently with climbing slipping down the list of priorities, and to be honest posting today is a little pointless but I've got to get back into it somehow!
Mon - Interview at Exeter, went pretty well, smiled a lot and didn't say anything stupid so fingers crossed! Went to The Quay climbing wall to check it out, it's pretty good. The main wall has a great set of routes with about 8 being 7c or harder. Not so good bouldering but apparently there's dedicated bouldering centres around too. Warmed up then onsighted 6c+, 7b, 7b. Still getting insanely pumped on everything but I'm getting better at managing the insane pump now.
Tue - rest
Wed - think I had a short session on the wall at home, discovered I've had my feet wrong for cross-over moves for my entire life! Finished with some core and pull-ups.
Thurs - Glasgow interview - I've toured the length of the country this week - not quite as good but hopefully still okay. Too mentally exhausted for any more training.
Fri - last day of school and almost all of my interviews over so I got wreckoed to celebrate, fun night.
Sat - had a lazy day recovering
Sun - went on a very hilly, very cold, and extremely muddy run (ankle deep in places) not sure how far or how fast but I was running and wading for an hour and a half! Good character building stuff.
Earlier in the month I've also had my interview at Newcastle, which didn't go so well, I think I was a bit nervous as it was my first interview. Also had the Youth Opens, bouldering went much better than last year but leading was worse. Bit sad about having to sacrifice it but I'm getting fitter, slowly.
The main objective is training for Chorro in Feb, goals are to O/S 7c or maybe try redpointing an 8a over a couple of days if I'm feeling strong and find one that inspires me - Lourdes looks amazing.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Eagle River:
Can't help but agree with AJM here, you're definitely strong and fit enough to onsight 7b+ if you find one that suits you, and doesn't have a stopper move or really complex sequences.
But I'll also just add that the rule of three doesn't seem to apply to that many people, and I've still got the opposite problem!
Can't help but agree with AJM here, you're definitely strong and fit enough to onsight 7b+ if you find one that suits you, and doesn't have a stopper move or really complex sequences.
But I'll also just add that the rule of three doesn't seem to apply to that many people, and I've still got the opposite problem!
Post edited at 18:47
In reply to AJM: Cheers AJM, only one session but it was a good one.
M:
T:
W: Wirksworth wall, routes, roughly 10 6a-6c+, onsighted a 6b+, failed on a 6c and 6c+ on onsight goes, but is a measure of progress during the year to be at least trying stuff at this level.
T:
F:
S:
S:
STG: More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession
M:
T:
W: Wirksworth wall, routes, roughly 10 6a-6c+, onsighted a 6b+, failed on a 6c and 6c+ on onsight goes, but is a measure of progress during the year to be at least trying stuff at this level.
T:
F:
S:
S:
STG: More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession
In reply to Joughton:
Jake,
I think we are in Chorro until the 17th feb or so - when are you out?
Lourdes does look awesome. Not the easiest one for me logistically as there aren't many easy routes around it, but I feel I should at least go and check it out even if it ends up being a route for a different trip...
A
Jake,
I think we are in Chorro until the 17th feb or so - when are you out?
Lourdes does look awesome. Not the easiest one for me logistically as there aren't many easy routes around it, but I feel I should at least go and check it out even if it ends up being a route for a different trip...
A
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy. Yep, I got on a V6! No cigar tho...
STG: 7b or V6 indoors
MTG: 7b+ RP (Frankie comes to Kilnsey)
LTG: trad in Summer
Mon: Hill reps then 9.7km run, 363m ascent
Tues: BUK, got on a V6 and got scarily close to ticking it. I got the top hold twice but couldn't match it. It's soft for sure, but it's progress anyway for me.
Wed: Stockport, disappointed with my lack of progress on the 7a+ project. I think the problem is that it's a dynamic route and I'm not holding in my core to latch the big moves.
Thurs: 18.6km run Pendle hill, 638m ascent.
Fri: Kendal wall, had 3 goes on a new 7a but didn't tick it. Should have.
Sat: 15.9km run Forest of Bowland, 341m ascent
Sun: Harrogate wall. Low pysche and low energy so just did laps for stamina. Should help for Spain next week.
Chuffed to have got on a V6 and even more chuffed to have got so close. Hopefully it will still be there next time so I can get it done.
The rest of the week was a bit shite, I don't seem to have much grr to get routes/problems done. I keep nearly ticking things.
Will be in Spain from Saturday for a week. I think it will be a relaxed pace so I've not got any goals, just have some fun.
Thanks Andy. Yep, I got on a V6! No cigar tho...
STG: 7b or V6 indoors
MTG: 7b+ RP (Frankie comes to Kilnsey)
LTG: trad in Summer
Mon: Hill reps then 9.7km run, 363m ascent
Tues: BUK, got on a V6 and got scarily close to ticking it. I got the top hold twice but couldn't match it. It's soft for sure, but it's progress anyway for me.
Wed: Stockport, disappointed with my lack of progress on the 7a+ project. I think the problem is that it's a dynamic route and I'm not holding in my core to latch the big moves.
Thurs: 18.6km run Pendle hill, 638m ascent.
Fri: Kendal wall, had 3 goes on a new 7a but didn't tick it. Should have.
Sat: 15.9km run Forest of Bowland, 341m ascent
Sun: Harrogate wall. Low pysche and low energy so just did laps for stamina. Should help for Spain next week.
Chuffed to have got on a V6 and even more chuffed to have got so close. Hopefully it will still be there next time so I can get it done.
The rest of the week was a bit shite, I don't seem to have much grr to get routes/problems done. I keep nearly ticking things.
Will be in Spain from Saturday for a week. I think it will be a relaxed pace so I've not got any goals, just have some fun.
In reply to AJM: I think our first climbing day is the 15th, so not much overlap there but it would be good to meet up, especially if you've been on it and can give me some beta!
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for doing fit club.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - ill
T - ill
W - Fingerboard
T - indoor bouldering - 1hr
F - Core
S - Core
S - 2 mi run
Was really ill at the start of the week. Still pretty ill on Wednesday, but I managed to struggle through a fingerboard session (ok 10 mins of dead hangs). The bouldering wall I used to go to a lot has re-opened. However as it's all steep there my dodgy shoulder twinge has come back. Which means I'll have to go back to yoga. Probably not a bad idea. Eating hideously badly. But at least I did the exercise vaguely as planned. Really keen to get back outside and climb again. I want the sun again damnit. I can't cope with all this darkness.
Thanks for doing fit club.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - ill
T - ill
W - Fingerboard
T - indoor bouldering - 1hr
F - Core
S - Core
S - 2 mi run
Was really ill at the start of the week. Still pretty ill on Wednesday, but I managed to struggle through a fingerboard session (ok 10 mins of dead hangs). The bouldering wall I used to go to a lot has re-opened. However as it's all steep there my dodgy shoulder twinge has come back. Which means I'll have to go back to yoga. Probably not a bad idea. Eating hideously badly. But at least I did the exercise vaguely as planned. Really keen to get back outside and climb again. I want the sun again damnit. I can't cope with all this darkness.
In reply to AJM:
M: [54] 11.5 miles with 7 quick (Garminless, but felt fast).
T: [54.2] 6.2 miles road and tow-path, physio
W: [54.2]
T: [54.1] 13.9 miles road and tow-path
F: [54.1]
S: [52.6] 10 miles including assorted hill reps and sprints
S: [41.6]
It seems I have upper-hamstring tendonitis (hopefully in its early stages). Which apparently is really difficult to shift. The physio (really good holistic sports physio based at Birmingham university) pointed out what I already knew, but had been ignoring: having rather less flexibility than a dry stick makes you pretty useless in almost all contexts apart from running flat and in a straight line on a hard surface. The fact that I struggle to touch my knees, let alone my toes, is a bit of a give-away.
So I have stretching to do, and I'm trying to reduce mileage (hence no run today). This is a major pain (a) because I passionately hate stretching and (b) because, arse-ache aside, I've been enjoying running recently, and have even been finding some pace. Ho hum.
M: [54] 11.5 miles with 7 quick (Garminless, but felt fast).
T: [54.2] 6.2 miles road and tow-path, physio
W: [54.2]
T: [54.1] 13.9 miles road and tow-path
F: [54.1]
S: [52.6] 10 miles including assorted hill reps and sprints
S: [41.6]
It seems I have upper-hamstring tendonitis (hopefully in its early stages). Which apparently is really difficult to shift. The physio (really good holistic sports physio based at Birmingham university) pointed out what I already knew, but had been ignoring: having rather less flexibility than a dry stick makes you pretty useless in almost all contexts apart from running flat and in a straight line on a hard surface. The fact that I struggle to touch my knees, let alone my toes, is a bit of a give-away.
So I have stretching to do, and I'm trying to reduce mileage (hence no run today). This is a major pain (a) because I passionately hate stretching and (b) because, arse-ache aside, I've been enjoying running recently, and have even been finding some pace. Ho hum.
In reply to mbh:
Good week! I'm very jealous, particularly if a lot of this was coast path or somewhere similarly nice.
Iain: Really bad luck with your toe. That must be massively frustrating.
Good week! I'm very jealous, particularly if a lot of this was coast path or somewhere similarly nice.
Iain: Really bad luck with your toe. That must be massively frustrating.
In reply to Joughton:
I spent 3 weeks in Feb in 2011. Things are pretty seepey. Lourdes was a total washout so I spent 2 days on Trainspotting which is 7b+ to half height then steep easy jugs to a kneebar. Followed by technical crimpy crux at the 19th? bolt. Stays dry so will give you something to do if that wall is wet.
I spent 3 weeks in Feb in 2011. Things are pretty seepey. Lourdes was a total washout so I spent 2 days on Trainspotting which is 7b+ to half height then steep easy jugs to a kneebar. Followed by technical crimpy crux at the 19th? bolt. Stays dry so will give you something to do if that wall is wet.
In reply to AJM:
I've bought a Garmin. So I'm in with the data loving running crowd at the moment.
M -Nothing?
T - 10.6miles (7:07min/mile)
W - Indoor boulders
T - Nothing
F - Tried to run - sacked it off after 2 miles.
S - Nothing
S - 5 hours of indoor bouldering at a Boulder Central Xmas bash. Followed by 13.4miles (7:30min/mile)
I've bought a Garmin. So I'm in with the data loving running crowd at the moment.
M -Nothing?
T - 10.6miles (7:07min/mile)
W - Indoor boulders
T - Nothing
F - Tried to run - sacked it off after 2 miles.
S - Nothing
S - 5 hours of indoor bouldering at a Boulder Central Xmas bash. Followed by 13.4miles (7:30min/mile)
In reply to AJM:
I'd say this place is a must visit for how beautiful it is but there are some downsides in that everything faces sun most of the day, even last week it was too hot for part of the day. Also because there are a lot of tufas a lot of routes will probably be prone to seepage and there are not as many routes as in other areas. It's only an hour and a half from Girona airport and some of the routes look as good a as many other places
> Montgrony, tell me more? There's a Rockfax miniguide so I was considering a stop for a day or two on our way south.
I'd say this place is a must visit for how beautiful it is but there are some downsides in that everything faces sun most of the day, even last week it was too hot for part of the day. Also because there are a lot of tufas a lot of routes will probably be prone to seepage and there are not as many routes as in other areas. It's only an hour and a half from Girona airport and some of the routes look as good a as many other places
In reply to AJM:
M: Thin skin so rested
T: Stockport bouldering. I was reasonably happy with how I climbed but the grades felt harder than they used to. Is my feeling correct or am I even weaker than I used to be?
W: Stockport routes with the UKCFC massive. Low volume session
T: Rest
F: Lazyness but set a PB in beers for the second half of the year, 4 bottles of larger. I drink like an athlete and climb like an alcoholic.
S: Routes at Liverpool, low volume session so topped up with some bouldering. Found the grades hard, there's definitely a pattern emerging.....
S: Forced myself to go for a short 6km run as a damage limitation exercise as I knew I was heading for an all you can eat Christmas binge.
Other: My weight has survived the first weekend of festivities but it is back up to 10 stone 12 from a recent low on Friday. Smacked finger at wall which has swollen worryingly.
M: Thin skin so rested
T: Stockport bouldering. I was reasonably happy with how I climbed but the grades felt harder than they used to. Is my feeling correct or am I even weaker than I used to be?
W: Stockport routes with the UKCFC massive. Low volume session
T: Rest
F: Lazyness but set a PB in beers for the second half of the year, 4 bottles of larger. I drink like an athlete and climb like an alcoholic.
S: Routes at Liverpool, low volume session so topped up with some bouldering. Found the grades hard, there's definitely a pattern emerging.....
S: Forced myself to go for a short 6km run as a damage limitation exercise as I knew I was heading for an all you can eat Christmas binge.
Other: My weight has survived the first weekend of festivities but it is back up to 10 stone 12 from a recent low on Friday. Smacked finger at wall which has swollen worryingly.
In reply to Joughton:
On Wednesday Ally and I opened the book on Eagle River's Spanish on-sight max, current prices:
7a+ 5:2
7b Evens
7b+ 3:1
7c 10:1
> Can't help but agree with AJM here, you're definitely strong and fit enough to onsight 7b+ if you find one that suits you, and doesn't have a stopper move or really complex sequences.
On Wednesday Ally and I opened the book on Eagle River's Spanish on-sight max, current prices:
7a+ 5:2
7b Evens
7b+ 3:1
7c 10:1
In reply to AJM:
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
MTG (June 2014):
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april - Wheels in motion kind of for two trips maybe or 1 and ceuse
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
This week's goals:
Get a session in mid week amoungst the busy week
M: rest
T: quick hour on my way home. Nothing significant just getting a few problems
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: despite hammering rain on the drive headed to almscliff. Bone dry but wind as. Warmed up on crucifix and crucifix low. Tried syretts not that psyched for it as every time I looked down the mats were trying to run away. Next up was underhand area repeated the underhand finish. PLayed at warm up area. Tried juggy thing stupid sit start. Tried left rib with a interesting fall. tried eds dyno did not go well. Went to pattas did the warm up. Low psyche day. but attempeted a lot of stuff and with the weather I should not really complain.
S: Rest
Next week Goals:
Drive to font
Cirucits to get back used to the sand stone
Eat a pain au chocolat or 7
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
MTG (June 2014):
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april - Wheels in motion kind of for two trips maybe or 1 and ceuse
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
This week's goals:
Get a session in mid week amoungst the busy week
M: rest
T: quick hour on my way home. Nothing significant just getting a few problems
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: despite hammering rain on the drive headed to almscliff. Bone dry but wind as. Warmed up on crucifix and crucifix low. Tried syretts not that psyched for it as every time I looked down the mats were trying to run away. Next up was underhand area repeated the underhand finish. PLayed at warm up area. Tried juggy thing stupid sit start. Tried left rib with a interesting fall. tried eds dyno did not go well. Went to pattas did the warm up. Low psyche day. but attempeted a lot of stuff and with the weather I should not really complain.
S: Rest
Next week Goals:
Drive to font
Cirucits to get back used to the sand stone
Eat a pain au chocolat or 7
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM, I've had a rest week this week, I have been training 5-6 days a week for 10 weeks now so aside from giving my elbows time to heal, I was probably due a rest!
I was going to hold off until next week and combine the rest with the crimbo period, so now i'll just have to try hard to motivate to train instead of scoffing mince pies and watching die hard.
Elbows feel good but it's always impossible to tell until I try to do something hard so we shall see, I'll hopefully get a climb in later in the week, see how they feel. It seems everyone who has had problem elbows seems to have found their own clever little trick for keeping them pain free, I need to try some of these methods and find my own particular trick that works for me.
On the plus side my shoulder is feeling great and i'm still getting more and more range of motion out of it, just need to keep the stretches going.
STG: Just get outside during my time off (25 Dec to 5 Jan) and have another crack at a 7a/+
Thanks AJM, I've had a rest week this week, I have been training 5-6 days a week for 10 weeks now so aside from giving my elbows time to heal, I was probably due a rest!
I was going to hold off until next week and combine the rest with the crimbo period, so now i'll just have to try hard to motivate to train instead of scoffing mince pies and watching die hard.
Elbows feel good but it's always impossible to tell until I try to do something hard so we shall see, I'll hopefully get a climb in later in the week, see how they feel. It seems everyone who has had problem elbows seems to have found their own clever little trick for keeping them pain free, I need to try some of these methods and find my own particular trick that works for me.
On the plus side my shoulder is feeling great and i'm still getting more and more range of motion out of it, just need to keep the stretches going.
STG: Just get outside during my time off (25 Dec to 5 Jan) and have another crack at a 7a/+
In reply to AJM:
Absolutely b*gger all to report from this week due to lurgy, Christmas socialising, work and work-related-but-not-quite-work priorties. Hopefully investment for more exercise time in the future.
Anyone know if the new climbing wall in Chester has more bouldering than the Warrington wall? Thinking of heading for a session tonight or tomorrow afternoon (presuming they're open) - if anyone fancies joining me I think I packed harness too.
Absolutely b*gger all to report from this week due to lurgy, Christmas socialising, work and work-related-but-not-quite-work priorties. Hopefully investment for more exercise time in the future.
Anyone know if the new climbing wall in Chester has more bouldering than the Warrington wall? Thinking of heading for a session tonight or tomorrow afternoon (presuming they're open) - if anyone fancies joining me I think I packed harness too.
In reply to Eagle River: I was the same (well ok not *quite* such an extreme difference!) until Kalymnos this year. You just need to find some more onsightable routes and your grade will rocket - reckon 7b should be your target and definitely doable
In reply to Ali and any other london based people:
I am in the city on the 7th jan staying nearish vauxhall/london bridge. Anyone free for a wall session?
From google looks like biscuit factory is closest wall.
I am in the city on the 7th jan staying nearish vauxhall/london bridge. Anyone free for a wall session?
From google looks like biscuit factory is closest wall.
In reply to AJM:
7C's were too much for my perennially dodgy digit and it's been complaining again this week
VLTG (Sept 2014): Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
LTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?
MTG (By end Dec 2013):
Keep to the plan; double sessions and all!
Maintain (and push) On-sight level in Chulilla, i.e. 7c/+
Try and RP something hard in the 8a+/b range - Magica Montana?
STG (The coming week)
- Finger icing sessions
- 1x pull-up session as per "the plan"
- Core & flexibility work
- Try not to get any fatter before going away (big ask with xmas round the corner) - now 76.5kg and 6.8% BF
The week just gone:
M - An-cap/aero-cap split session at AWS. Same an-cap problems as week before, but nowhere near as powered out - need to up the intensity next time.
T - Rest
W - Aero-power with UKCFC massiv at AWS - cheers to Tyler for patiently belaying me on my "Austrian Laps" (5 progressive laps up a 7b x3); AKA another torture mechanism devised by Coach Randall.
T - Continuity aero-cap at Boardroom; lots of 6c-7a link-ups
F - Rest; for my last day in work things went totally shit and when everyone else was going home at 3pm i didn't leave until 6:45pm. Cinema instead of training
S - Rest - campus board construction incomplete - it's being a bit of an arse assembling in-situ in the spare room.
S - Top tip - Over on SportPursuit (Group-On stylee thingy) you can get 10x LA Fitness day passes for £18.90. i.e. i went back to the gym; today i have the worst DOMS i've had in months!
7C's were too much for my perennially dodgy digit and it's been complaining again this week
VLTG (Sept 2014): Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
LTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?
MTG (By end Dec 2013):
Keep to the plan; double sessions and all!
Maintain (and push) On-sight level in Chulilla, i.e. 7c/+
Try and RP something hard in the 8a+/b range - Magica Montana?
STG (The coming week)
- Finger icing sessions
- 1x pull-up session as per "the plan"
- Core & flexibility work
- Try not to get any fatter before going away (big ask with xmas round the corner) - now 76.5kg and 6.8% BF
The week just gone:
M - An-cap/aero-cap split session at AWS. Same an-cap problems as week before, but nowhere near as powered out - need to up the intensity next time.
T - Rest
W - Aero-power with UKCFC massiv at AWS - cheers to Tyler for patiently belaying me on my "Austrian Laps" (5 progressive laps up a 7b x3); AKA another torture mechanism devised by Coach Randall.
T - Continuity aero-cap at Boardroom; lots of 6c-7a link-ups
F - Rest; for my last day in work things went totally shit and when everyone else was going home at 3pm i didn't leave until 6:45pm. Cinema instead of training
S - Rest - campus board construction incomplete - it's being a bit of an arse assembling in-situ in the spare room.
S - Top tip - Over on SportPursuit (Group-On stylee thingy) you can get 10x LA Fitness day passes for £18.90. i.e. i went back to the gym; today i have the worst DOMS i've had in months!
Post edited at 10:35
In reply to Tyler:
The book should be limited to stuff I'm at least going to try so you can knock 7b-7c off there. Grubes is probably closer to the mark.
And those V5s you couldn't do at Stockport were soft for the grade.
The book should be limited to stuff I'm at least going to try so you can knock 7b-7c off there. Grubes is probably closer to the mark.
And those V5s you couldn't do at Stockport were soft for the grade.
In reply to grubes:
Snap! I'm in London town for a daytrip on 8th. Canary wharf so Biscuit Factory local too.
Snap! I'm in London town for a daytrip on 8th. Canary wharf so Biscuit Factory local too.
In reply to grubes & Ally:
Yup, biscuit factory good for both - I should be around (presuming evening) and imagine Curious Yellow and Quiddity will be up for it (they're off in Turkey til the 5th though!). Be good to meet you both
Yup, biscuit factory good for both - I should be around (presuming evening) and imagine Curious Yellow and Quiddity will be up for it (they're off in Turkey til the 5th though!). Be good to meet you both
In reply to Eagle River:
If he is I hope you'll have the decency to feign injury!
Damn my weakness, I'm definitely putting my rock shoes on next time I go...
> Grubes is probably closer to the mark.
If he is I hope you'll have the decency to feign injury!
> And those V5s you couldn't do at Stockport were soft for the grade.
Damn my weakness, I'm definitely putting my rock shoes on next time I go...
In reply to Tyler:
Always knoow the facts before you bet
Knowing ER it will be a family holiday with some climbing time rather than a climbing holiday. He will have RP projects which he won't want to be blasted from onsight attempts to give a proper go.
Always knoow the facts before you bet
Knowing ER it will be a family holiday with some climbing time rather than a climbing holiday. He will have RP projects which he won't want to be blasted from onsight attempts to give a proper go.
In reply to Ali and ally:
on the 7th I think I will be free from about 4pm onwards. but guess everyone else will be working till at least 5.
On the 8th I go back on the 7pm train from kings cross so won't have chance to do anything then.
on the 7th I think I will be free from about 4pm onwards. but guess everyone else will be working till at least 5.
On the 8th I go back on the 7pm train from kings cross so won't have chance to do anything then.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks, slightly better than last week, but work and Christmas got in the way again.
STG (December / January): Consistent 45 mile + training weeks, weight below 71kg. Make the most of whatever conditions we get this winter and get out climbing ice and mixed. I am also trying to adapt to follow the principles of Matt Fitzgerald’s 2 Rule Diet, which is basically about ensuring a get enough high quality carbs without over eating, should be straightforward, but complicated by rarely eating at home at the moment.
MTG (February / March / April): Consistent 55 mile + training weeks, weight below 69kg, ½ Marathon personal best (currently 1:28:06, which is soft, mainly because I don’t run ½ marathons very often, I ran 1:26 during a 20 miler), Manchester Marathon, improve on this year, ideally under 3 hours. Make the most of whatever conditions we get this winter and get out climbing ice and mixed.
LTG (Rest of 2014): Maintain momentum with the running, concentrate on speed through the Summer, go sub 18 for 5k and sub 37 for 10k. Do more on the bike and maybe do one of the Big Swim events.
M - Steady hilly 6.5 mile road run + 3/4 of a mile barefoot (5 fingers).
T - 2 mile warm up, 7.5 miles including hill session. Barefoot stretches.
W - Steady hilly 11 miles.
T - worked late.
F - work and evening commitment.
S - Easy 4 mile road run, forced myself out.
S - Nothing really but the dog had an extra long walk, about 6 miles.
31-32 miles, better than last week, but not good enough. Week started well, but work and family Christmas stuff got in the way. I also forgot to weigh myself.
Thanks, slightly better than last week, but work and Christmas got in the way again.
STG (December / January): Consistent 45 mile + training weeks, weight below 71kg. Make the most of whatever conditions we get this winter and get out climbing ice and mixed. I am also trying to adapt to follow the principles of Matt Fitzgerald’s 2 Rule Diet, which is basically about ensuring a get enough high quality carbs without over eating, should be straightforward, but complicated by rarely eating at home at the moment.
MTG (February / March / April): Consistent 55 mile + training weeks, weight below 69kg, ½ Marathon personal best (currently 1:28:06, which is soft, mainly because I don’t run ½ marathons very often, I ran 1:26 during a 20 miler), Manchester Marathon, improve on this year, ideally under 3 hours. Make the most of whatever conditions we get this winter and get out climbing ice and mixed.
LTG (Rest of 2014): Maintain momentum with the running, concentrate on speed through the Summer, go sub 18 for 5k and sub 37 for 10k. Do more on the bike and maybe do one of the Big Swim events.
M - Steady hilly 6.5 mile road run + 3/4 of a mile barefoot (5 fingers).
T - 2 mile warm up, 7.5 miles including hill session. Barefoot stretches.
W - Steady hilly 11 miles.
T - worked late.
F - work and evening commitment.
S - Easy 4 mile road run, forced myself out.
S - Nothing really but the dog had an extra long walk, about 6 miles.
31-32 miles, better than last week, but not good enough. Week started well, but work and family Christmas stuff got in the way. I also forgot to weigh myself.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for doing FC AJM
Brief one as on a tablet:
M: am 1hr P / PE at wall. pm: 45min fell run, 30min weights
T: am 45min road run, pm: 45min road run
W: pm 1hr 30 P / PE at wall, 30 min weights
T: 1hr wall, poor session
F: Rest
S: 1hr P/ PE at wall
S: pm 45min road run
New year focus to loose weight and periodise PE six weeks followed by E six weeks (don't think I need power as can do harder moves than I can link together - any thoughts from people who know more than me?)
Thanks for doing FC AJM
Brief one as on a tablet:
M: am 1hr P / PE at wall. pm: 45min fell run, 30min weights
T: am 45min road run, pm: 45min road run
W: pm 1hr 30 P / PE at wall, 30 min weights
T: 1hr wall, poor session
F: Rest
S: 1hr P/ PE at wall
S: pm 45min road run
New year focus to loose weight and periodise PE six weeks followed by E six weeks (don't think I need power as can do harder moves than I can link together - any thoughts from people who know more than me?)
In reply to Exile:
These; in the "athlete" setting
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0013ISJD8/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie...
These; in the "athlete" setting
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0013ISJD8/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie...
In reply to grubes:
Is that like the fact as stated above that he doesn't plan to do much redpointing and wants to just onsight?
Also I think he is out with a climber who will presumably get quite bored if it's mainly a family trip!
It's all going to depend on how fast he adjusts from the usual "dog it and crush" mode of operating. But I reckon my money would go on 7a+
> Always knoow the facts before you bet
Is that like the fact as stated above that he doesn't plan to do much redpointing and wants to just onsight?
Also I think he is out with a climber who will presumably get quite bored if it's mainly a family trip!
> Knowing ER it will be a family holiday with some climbing time rather than a climbing holiday. He will have RP projects which he won't want to be blasted from onsight attempts to give a proper go.
It's all going to depend on how fast he adjusts from the usual "dog it and crush" mode of operating. But I reckon my money would go on 7a+
In reply to Tyler:
We would probably be there only for a day or two, in early Jan on the way down, so that could be ideal temperature wise as long as its not seepin.
We would probably be there only for a day or two, in early Jan on the way down, so that could be ideal temperature wise as long as its not seepin.
In reply to Mark Torrance:
If it's any consolation, a lot of it comprised the industrial estates and housing estates of Camborne and Redruth. Neither town is noted for its beauty, although I quite like Camborne. Much of the rest, I'll grant you, was on the Camel trail, and surrounds, which is very nice.
I would need trail shoes for the coast path at the moment, I should think, and I don't have any. The sales await.
If it's any consolation, a lot of it comprised the industrial estates and housing estates of Camborne and Redruth. Neither town is noted for its beauty, although I quite like Camborne. Much of the rest, I'll grant you, was on the Camel trail, and surrounds, which is very nice.
I would need trail shoes for the coast path at the moment, I should think, and I don't have any. The sales await.
In reply to AJM:
It's not that I can't DO the extra session, I just can't find the time to squeeze it in!
Not even going to bother reporting on this last week, life well and truly got in the way and I barely did anything. Stormy walk in the lakes, poor orienteering performance & a couple of bike rides. Seriously looking forward to 5 days off, copying Ali and running lots at Christmas, and trip to Scotland Unfortunately Scotland is looking more like biking than skiing given the snow conditions.
Have a great Christmas everyone!
> maria85 - are you sure its the 4 climbing sessions rather than the cumulative training load? Given the amount of other stuff you do potentially its just cumulative lack of recovery time that's doing it?
It's not that I can't DO the extra session, I just can't find the time to squeeze it in!
Not even going to bother reporting on this last week, life well and truly got in the way and I barely did anything. Stormy walk in the lakes, poor orienteering performance & a couple of bike rides. Seriously looking forward to 5 days off, copying Ali and running lots at Christmas, and trip to Scotland Unfortunately Scotland is looking more like biking than skiing given the snow conditions.
Have a great Christmas everyone!
In reply to Tyler:
Classic post :-D
As a bit of background I've seen ER just miss out on 7a os purely due to lack of he's entality. That was a while ago and he's fitter now. With a couple of practice sessions my money is on 7a+.
Can't wait to find out.
Classic post :-D
As a bit of background I've seen ER just miss out on 7a os purely due to lack of he's entality. That was a while ago and he's fitter now. With a couple of practice sessions my money is on 7a+.
Can't wait to find out.
In reply to Eagle River: Agreed, my money's on at least 7b, which you have to try at least a few of!
Bit of pressure to motivate you now.
Bit of pressure to motivate you now.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Thanks for the advice Jimmy, I'll bear it in mind.
19 clips sounds long though! If that crux you describe isn't too hard (could estimate a bouldering grade?) that sounds spot on for me, thanks for the recommendation.
Thanks for the advice Jimmy, I'll bear it in mind.
19 clips sounds long though! If that crux you describe isn't too hard (could estimate a bouldering grade?) that sounds spot on for me, thanks for the recommendation.
In reply to AJM: just spent ages doing my update on the phone and lost,it,all.
Briefly..
.cardio every day inc two hill runs of about 700m ascent
Two sessions of weights inc pull ups
Four sessions of core
Two bouldering sessions in garage..loving it
Two kendal wall sessions..very close to 7b+ (soft for grade)
This week so ..two sessions of turbo and,bouldering in garage..put up nasty crimp circuit on the forty degree wall..aspirational..for now
Injury still steadily improving..can do tony crimps on steep stuff but pockets out even
Easy pockets.
Have a brilliant christmas everyone x x
Briefly..
.cardio every day inc two hill runs of about 700m ascent
Two sessions of weights inc pull ups
Four sessions of core
Two bouldering sessions in garage..loving it
Two kendal wall sessions..very close to 7b+ (soft for grade)
This week so ..two sessions of turbo and,bouldering in garage..put up nasty crimp circuit on the forty degree wall..aspirational..for now
Injury still steadily improving..can do tony crimps on steep stuff but pockets out even
Easy pockets.
Have a brilliant christmas everyone x x
In reply to Ally Smith:
I've heard they're very inaccurate? I have one which reckons I'm 5% body fat and the one in work reckons I'm 4.9% body fat!
I've heard they're very inaccurate? I have one which reckons I'm 5% body fat and the one in work reckons I'm 4.9% body fat!
Sun, 22/Dec Outdoor climbing > White Goods > onsighted a M7
Sat, 21/Dec Rest
Fri , 20/Dec Rest (last day at work!)
Thurs, 19/Dec Rest
Wed, 18/Dec Indoor climbing - 1:00 hr - felt sore so took it easy.
Tues, 17/Dec Rest
Mon, 16/Dec Rest (working)
ST: To DT at 'Masson Lees' next week. To restart running in legs will allow me.
MT: Rujkan in Feb 2014.
LT: To be climbing well again ... by the summer 2014.
Sat, 21/Dec Rest
Fri , 20/Dec Rest (last day at work!)
Thurs, 19/Dec Rest
Wed, 18/Dec Indoor climbing - 1:00 hr - felt sore so took it easy.
Tues, 17/Dec Rest
Mon, 16/Dec Rest (working)
ST: To DT at 'Masson Lees' next week. To restart running in legs will allow me.
MT: Rujkan in Feb 2014.
LT: To be climbing well again ... by the summer 2014.
In reply to Luke Owens:
I've not intention of using it as an accurate measure - just looking at trends. They say 6.8-7.0% at the moment and i feel a bit saggy around my gut.
When i did Insomnia in the summer they said 6.4-6.6% and i felt fairly lean. That's the direction i want to head in...
I've not intention of using it as an accurate measure - just looking at trends. They say 6.8-7.0% at the moment and i feel a bit saggy around my gut.
When i did Insomnia in the summer they said 6.4-6.6% and i felt fairly lean. That's the direction i want to head in...
In reply to pork pie girl:
So a mere 17 sessions in one week, and you're injured too. That is dead impressive, providing you really are an actual human. Amazing, ppg!
So a mere 17 sessions in one week, and you're injured too. That is dead impressive, providing you really are an actual human. Amazing, ppg!
In reply to mbh: I wouldn't include core as a separate session..it's a fifteen to twenty minute job after weights or whilst resting between bouldering circuits.I average about 12 or 13 sessions per week.
In reply to AJM: Cheers AJM!
Merry Christmas guys!
Monday: Lunch Session
12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Hammer Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
6 x 10 Offset Pullups
3 x 10 Bentover Dumbbell Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Dumbbell Lunges (35kg)
3 x 10 Leg Raises
Tuesday: Boardroom Bouldering
10 x V1-V2
3 x V2-V3
5 x V3-V4
4 x V5-V7
Piscobloc 6c route first go.
Wednesday: Lunch Session
12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Tricep Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 Hammer Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Bentove Shoulder Flys (15kg)
10 Squats (30kg)
3 x 10 Squats (60kg)
Thursday: Nipped up to Hope Mnt. as I finished work early to finish off the f6C+ but it was freezing and raining...
Boardroom Routes
Ticks:
5, 5+, 6b, 6b+, 6c+ 2nd go, 6b+, 6b+ 2nd go, 6b+, 6b+
Failed on:
7a, 6c+, Roof 6c+ x2, 6c, 6b+ x2
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Nesscliffe, bone dry and sunny when everywhere else was apparently in the middle of a storm...
Tried a very hard 6B+ traverse line called Berlin's Fallen about 10 times, fell off the last move twice. By the time I'd figured it out I couldn't link it...
Went up to the Terrace (Should of gone there first). Repeated my old nemesis Right Hand Route (6B+) first go. Worked on Northumberland Wonderland (7A/+). Never used to get close on the first move and I finally managed it a few times despite being knackered so I'm very happy. Reckon it's on now, keen to get back.
Sunday: Pinch Training
Thumb Weights
5 x 12kg
5 x 14kg
5 x 16kg
Merry Christmas guys!
Monday: Lunch Session
12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Hammer Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
6 x 10 Offset Pullups
3 x 10 Bentover Dumbbell Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Dumbbell Lunges (35kg)
3 x 10 Leg Raises
Tuesday: Boardroom Bouldering
10 x V1-V2
3 x V2-V3
5 x V3-V4
4 x V5-V7
Piscobloc 6c route first go.
Wednesday: Lunch Session
12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Tricep Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 Hammer Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Bentove Shoulder Flys (15kg)
10 Squats (30kg)
3 x 10 Squats (60kg)
Thursday: Nipped up to Hope Mnt. as I finished work early to finish off the f6C+ but it was freezing and raining...
Boardroom Routes
Ticks:
5, 5+, 6b, 6b+, 6c+ 2nd go, 6b+, 6b+ 2nd go, 6b+, 6b+
Failed on:
7a, 6c+, Roof 6c+ x2, 6c, 6b+ x2
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Nesscliffe, bone dry and sunny when everywhere else was apparently in the middle of a storm...
Tried a very hard 6B+ traverse line called Berlin's Fallen about 10 times, fell off the last move twice. By the time I'd figured it out I couldn't link it...
Went up to the Terrace (Should of gone there first). Repeated my old nemesis Right Hand Route (6B+) first go. Worked on Northumberland Wonderland (7A/+). Never used to get close on the first move and I finally managed it a few times despite being knackered so I'm very happy. Reckon it's on now, keen to get back.
Sunday: Pinch Training
Thumb Weights
5 x 12kg
5 x 14kg
5 x 16kg
In reply to AJM:
Merry festive season everyone !
Last week was a bit hit and miss. One poor attempted session on the auto belay. No psyche and everything felt hard. One good doubles session and not a lot else. I think I ran a couple of times too but only short jogs.
I'll report this week here as I'm off to Spain on sat.
Good doubles session on Monday. Failed on a 6c and 6b on the last set, everything else was in the 7's. Totally battered.
Bouldered on Tues.flashed lots of easier stuff. Got stuck on a couple of tricky v4's. Flashed/quickly got a few v5's and should have flashed a v6. I bottled the last move first time but manned up and got it second go. Tried a few more v5's as well but was very tired by then.
Problems with my left shoulder again. Different type of pain running from the front of my shoulder down the inside of my biceps and into my elbow. Doesn't hurt when climbing but was very painful as soon as I stopped. Feels OK now but the intensity of bouldering seems to set my shoulder off. I need to get it properly sorted after Spain.
Speaking of which I'll have to see how it pans out. If we go back to the same place a couple of times I'd like to get a 7b+. If we're going different places each day I'll aim for some quick 7a+/7b's. There's a multi pitch day booked in, some running/swimming and a bit of partying too. Phew !
I hope all the suffering and tellings off at the wall will prove fruitful
I know there's a few people off on trips so good luck to everyone for some winter sun crushing !
Merry festive season everyone !
Last week was a bit hit and miss. One poor attempted session on the auto belay. No psyche and everything felt hard. One good doubles session and not a lot else. I think I ran a couple of times too but only short jogs.
I'll report this week here as I'm off to Spain on sat.
Good doubles session on Monday. Failed on a 6c and 6b on the last set, everything else was in the 7's. Totally battered.
Bouldered on Tues.flashed lots of easier stuff. Got stuck on a couple of tricky v4's. Flashed/quickly got a few v5's and should have flashed a v6. I bottled the last move first time but manned up and got it second go. Tried a few more v5's as well but was very tired by then.
Problems with my left shoulder again. Different type of pain running from the front of my shoulder down the inside of my biceps and into my elbow. Doesn't hurt when climbing but was very painful as soon as I stopped. Feels OK now but the intensity of bouldering seems to set my shoulder off. I need to get it properly sorted after Spain.
Speaking of which I'll have to see how it pans out. If we go back to the same place a couple of times I'd like to get a 7b+. If we're going different places each day I'll aim for some quick 7a+/7b's. There's a multi pitch day booked in, some running/swimming and a bit of partying too. Phew !
I hope all the suffering and tellings off at the wall will prove fruitful
I know there's a few people off on trips so good luck to everyone for some winter sun crushing !
In reply to JimmyKay: Sounds perfect, thanks for the advice.
And good effort from him, he's got so strong!
And good effort from him, he's got so strong!
In reply to AJM:
Goals for 2014 continue finger board sessions and increase endurance training for long routes.
Mon - 16.4mile bike ride Peak District
Tue - Indoor bouldering session
Wed - Rest
Thurs - Outdoor bouldering session & finger board session
Friday - Indoor sport climbing session
Saturday - bouldering at curbar AM & Indoor sport climbing session PM
Sunday - Sherwood pines bike ride
Goals for 2014 continue finger board sessions and increase endurance training for long routes.
Mon - 16.4mile bike ride Peak District
Tue - Indoor bouldering session
Wed - Rest
Thurs - Outdoor bouldering session & finger board session
Friday - Indoor sport climbing session
Saturday - bouldering at curbar AM & Indoor sport climbing session PM
Sunday - Sherwood pines bike ride
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