UKC

UKC have put up articles on classic Scottish III and V's. Can anyone recommend some Welsh III's to do this winter (obviously when conditions permit)

In reply to chris fox:

The Ramp in Idwal and Clogwyn Ddu Right Branch are both good ones

In reply to chris fox:

I can't honestly think of any Snowdonia grade 3 routes that compare with those on the Scotland list. There are some lovely little 2/3s on Snowdon, like Cave, Ladies, Trinity r/h perhaps and there are lots of other minor routes all over the place at this grade but the only one I can think of that comes close is Billberry Terrace route on Lliwedd - massive and atmospheric, but probably only a 2. My personal opinion after some years doing these routes is that you have to move up a grade before you encounter the more memorable routes such as Great Gully (Craig yr ysfa) and Western Gully (Ysgolion dduon).
There are no doubt some exceptions that I haven't thought of, but perhaps this reply will get the post moving ?

In reply to Michael Griffith:

Thanks Michael,
I wasn't trying to compare the two, just after some ideas.
I have climbed harder, i've just not swung the axes for a couple of years and looking at taking a mate out .
I've wanted to do Bilberry Terrace as a summer route, so maybe that's a good one to get on.

Thanks
Chris

In reply to LakesWinter:

Cheers Lakes, can you recommend some Lakes III's too ?

In reply to chris fox:

Central gully on pen y fan and torpantau falls are both classic south wales grade III. central gully is really atmospheric and long for south wales, but the sustained climbing is limited and it is easily escapable. Torpantau is a remarkably reliable and accessible ice fall with a sustained and atmospheric main pitch, though you will have to queue! as for the north, nothing other than the ramp in cwm idwal stands out at that grade.

In reply to chris fox:

You could go for alternative finishes to central gully on great end or low water beck in the lakes. In wales maybe devils pasture, central climb, even south gully when really fat and hooked up

In reply to chris fox:

As Chris mentioned, the various finishes to Central Gully on Great End are good, classic gullies. The classic lakes III/IV is Raven Crag Gully, which is as good as many Scottish classics. One solid week of proper freeze and it should be ok, but it is low down. Photos from this April give a misleading indication of the usual quantity of ice! Normally there is less.

Another classic III is Pendulum Ridge on Scrubby Crag, though I think it is as hard as your average IV in Scotland.

Little Gully on Pavey Ark is very good too but needs a reasonable freeze to bring it in. All the low level gills are good after 2 weeks freeze - whorneyside force, Cautley Spout and Launchy Gill are well worth it, as is Sourmilk Gill in Borrowdale.

In reply to chris fox:

Eastern gully on Ysgolion Duon. Lovely pitch or two of ice leading to a snow gully.

Generally much more classics to go at IV & V though

In reply to Michael Griffith:
I did Tregalan Grooves in Cwm Tregalan last winter in absolutely stonking conditions, and it rates as one of the best days out I've had in winter anywhere in country, and easily comparable to some of the mutli-star IIIs in Scotland that I've climbed (e.g. SC Gully, Left Twin, Good Friday Climb)

It's perhaps not considered a classic, but certainly it's a hidden gem.

In reply to Webster:


It's certainly a good route but if you're stuck in a queue you need to learn to get out of bed earlier

In reply to timjones:

There is Slanting Buttress Ridge on Lliwedd if you are after a mixed climb. It's probably IV (it's summer D+/VD). However unlike most Lliwedd climbs there are good belays and possibilities for runners.

There are several lines on Lliwedd which go at III/IV depending on conditions. These are mainly on frozen turf/neve and don't correspond to the summer routes. However, given that the belays aren't usually good they can be difficult to retreat from. Just follow a line that looks white all the way up!

In reply to chris fox:

Clogwyn Y Person Arete goes at a III (4).. Good route, big and committing...

In reply to chris fox:

Yr Esgair on Foel Goch.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=146121