UKC

Hi,

Anyone got any reconsiderations for first forays into multi-pitch climbing (Trad).

Ideally Lakes or N Wales which is:
Easy, talking D/VD, with good pro.
Has big belay ledges.
4-5 pitches/100-150m.
Easy to descend, preferably a nice walk off to finish the day.
Not too popular so I wont be holding people up if I decide to have a faff.

Cheers and Merry Christmas!

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

Eyup, not quite what you asked for in terms of length or location, but a very good starting place.

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=5604

In reply to Jack Whiteley:
My first multipitch was the Sub Cneifion Rib. Pretty much ticks all your boxes, I think, and if you get up it reasonably efficiently you can carry on to the Cneifion Arete (a pitch and a half of nice juggy diff followed by a grade 2-ish scramble) and on up to Glyder Fawr or something for a proper day out.

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

Middlefell Butress, raven crag, Langdale
Diff, 4 pitches,75m
for ease finish by walking up to the dungeon ghyll path and descending between raven crag and east raven crag

there are lots of different options for the ascent and the descent, good ledges and belays so room for faffery - it's popular

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

So many to go at. Have a look at these.
Little Chamonix
Corvus
Bow fell buttress
Troutdale pinnacle is not too hard but very good too.
You are going to have so much fun, even if you just do these. Enjoy and be careful.

In reply to Jack Whiteley:
in North Wales; there's a few on Tryfan East face such as Grooved Arete or Pinnacle Rib Route.

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

In North Wales the Moelwyns have lots of multi pitch v diffs. Clogwyn Yr Oen has several three / four pitch routes. Short walk in, ten minutes. Easy descent with just a little scrambling, big ledges.

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

Dow Crag: C Ordinary and Giants Crawl can be done together and in a day, even with the short hours at this time of year.

If you have onsited E1 on grit, you shouldn't have much trouble on a multipitch VS, there is really not that much difference between the two. make sure you know how to abseil encase you get into trouble.

If you have onsited E1 on grit, you shouldn't have much trouble on a multipitch VS, there is really not that much difference between the two. make sure you know how to abseil encase you get into trouble.

outside edge is my fav, ticks all your boxs. tough for VD though.. i recon its more HS by modern standards

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2935

In reply to adamki:

Well my one E1 was TPS...discuss! I am defiantly more of a VS kind of guy :p

Thanks for all the recommendations tho, looks like a good list to go at in 2014

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

Not a route, but some ideas:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=573035

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

Middlefell buttress, Raven crag, Langdale;
Upper scout crags, Langdale (any of the routes);
Ordinary route, Idwal slabs, Ogwen;
Cniefon arete, Idwal

All should provide excellent outings.

Mark

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

Amphitheatre Buttress Craig yr Ysfa, can get a bit busy but, get there early to enjoy one of the best VD in Wales.

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

amphitheatre buttress as mentioned by someone else is a good one.
flying buttress on din as cromlech is also a very good beginners vd.

to be honest any 2-3star VD in north wales is fine for a beginner ( apart from some of the climbs on the llwydd)


try fan east face is also good. and theres a good few VDs on milestone buttress in ogwen, 5 mins from the car will a good abseil/decent gully.

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

Upper Scout Crag in Langdale and the Dow Crag climbs mentioned above fit the bill (Giant's and Ordinary C)

In reply to cragtaff:

Whilst Giants Crawl is easy, it does not have particularly good protection and is very quickly into serious ground, and you would be well advised not to ignore any gear placements.

In reply to sjc:
Don't do The Giants crawl in the wet. It was slippery and polished beyond words. We had to ignore all the large foot placements in favor of tiny in cuts while wearing boots.!

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

Idwal slabs in North Wales. Always a fun outing in great surroundings.

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

My first ever route was Flying Buttress on the Cromlech (on Christmas day 45 years ago) Ticks all your boxes.

In reply to sjc:

I was thinking that, also it has to be one of the coldest crags in the lakes. I would not go there unless it was too hot to climb in the sun!

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

Left hand side of boiler slab Gower

In reply to Jack Whiteley:

C Ordinary Route on Dow Crag?

Diff, 4ish pitches, 100ish meters, not too popular, belay ledges of a reasonable size.

Middlefell Buttress would fit the bill but it is quite popular and only has 3 pitches (75m)