/ If Evolv Bandits fit well, what else should I try?
Had a couple of pairs of Evolv Bandits now which have been some of the best-fitting (and worst-smelling) shoes I've ever had. Fancy a change now and would like to know what others who fit bandits would also recommend as a similar fit for all-round use (indoor, grit, Portland) up to the high 6's/low Es
I've found Boldrinis fit well (better actually) after 3 pairs of Bandits but smell just as bad - totally man made. Having said that, I'm still climbing in the Bandits, they just work for me.
Muiras felt horrific!
I've been wearing Bandits for a while (out of poverty rather than choice, they're plentiful second hand) and Scarpas generally fit me well. Favourite Scarpas are Vapour V (not sure if these are still current).
regarding worst smelling...
I was absolutely disgusted every time I walked anywhere near my katanas. what (surprisingly) completely sorted it was a bath in water with baking soda!
Bandits for comfort, anasazi whites for performance
Are the Whites essentially an edging shoe, or equally good for smearing?
I've got whites and I'm not a huge fan of smearing in them as they're really stiff. I did Elegy in mine just after getting them resoled and wished I'd waited! Probably the best for any other rock than grit though for properly tiny holds.
They are better for edging than smearing but I find that once the torsional stiffness across the toe piece goes in the whites (usually about 4-6 months for me) then they become rather like the Greeens and are then better for smearing but the magical precision edging has gone. HTH
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