UKC

ice ropes

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 3leggeddog 28 Dec 2013
I am in need of a new pair of ropes, primarily for ice climbing. Are icelines still the rope of choice or have things moved on a little?
 Gibson 28 Dec 2013
In reply to 3leggeddog:

Depends mate. Purely ice?
I saw these in Needle Sports and they are crazy light. http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Ropes/Half-Ro...
Doubt I'd use them for Scottish stuff though, a bit too light. Obviously need a Bug or something smaller too. I use Beal Cobra II's and find them a decent middle ground between weight and durability.
 CurlyStevo 28 Dec 2013
In reply to 3leggeddog:

the mammut pheonix are excellent. Hard wearing enough for summer trad, light enough for alpinism / winter in the UK. Mine lasted over 5 years of summer and winter!

Now I do less ice / winter I opted for the genesis as I'd prefer a little more safety / durability.
OP 3leggeddog 28 Dec 2013
In reply to Gibson:

it tends to work like this, 8mm ropes bought for ice/winter climbing, relegated to rock climbing once dry treatment worn off and rope becomes a problem. I am very happy with previous icelines, just wondering what else is around. I saw the 7.5mm ropes too, interesting indeed
 CurlyStevo 28 Dec 2013
In reply to 3leggeddog:

Would you trust 7.5mm for normal trad climbing? I wouldn't be happy running gear on one rope for very far on a rope that thin and on cliffs with sharp edges (like swanage), I'd be generally pretty dubious about the safety margins of these ropes. You also have issues with belay plates, I don't think I'd trust any devices except specialist thin rope devices like the buggette (whatever the belay plate manufacturers say)
 Gibson 28 Dec 2013
In reply to 3leggeddog:

They are ridiculously light mate, good deal from NS too. Doubt I'd be dragging them over the old gabbro mind...
OP 3leggeddog 28 Dec 2013
In reply to 3leggeddog:

Interesting to note that the criticisms levelled at the 7.5mm ropes are identical to those levelled at ice lines 12 years ago.

 Gibson 28 Dec 2013
In reply to 3leggeddog:

With respect to the durability?
 Timmd 28 Dec 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

> Would you trust 7.5mm for normal trad climbing? I wouldn't be happy running gear on one rope for very far on a rope that thin and on cliffs with sharp edges (like swanage), I'd be generally pretty dubious about the safety margins of these ropes. You also have issues with belay plates, I don't think I'd trust any devices except specialist thin rope devices like the buggette (whatever the belay plate manufacturers say)

Have you tried a sprung sticht pate with 7.5 ropes?
 CurlyStevo 28 Dec 2013
In reply to Timmd:

I meant modern belay plates, I used to own a sprung stitch plate and never intend to go back!
 CurlyStevo 28 Dec 2013
In reply to 3leggeddog:

Having climbed with various people that use icelines and don't find them very durable the my criticisms of them haven't changed. Great for ice, ok for mixed and not so great for summer trad.
 timjones 28 Dec 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

> I meant modern belay plates, I used to own a sprung stitch plate and never intend to go back!

Whyever not?

They're a good solid plate that does a great job in a competent pair of hands.
 CurlyStevo 28 Dec 2013
In reply to timjones:

Each to their own, I find the spring gets tangled in everything and they are too grabby paying out. IMO modern belay plates have superseded them and I haven't climbed with anyone that has belayed me using one for many years.
 cliff shasby 28 Dec 2013
In reply to 3leggeddog:
Interestingly the twilights are marketed for rock climbing !,i bought a pair this summer and they feel lovely to handle yet dont feel like they will tangle themselves up,not used them in anger yet(got them for the ice) but im sure they will end up as my mountain route ropes.
I will carry a spare buggette with them in case by belayer dosent have a suitable device ( as i did with my phoenix ropes).
 pamph 29 Dec 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

I am still using my sprung Sticht plate which I have had for over 30 years. I find it odd that you found yours too grabby, I found the exact oposite trying to use a modern belay device. To my mind the spring stops grabbyness by preventing the plate dropping down the rope/ropes and causing the jam. Each to their own! I have had some strange looks and comments when people see my plate being used. Hopefully mine will see my climbing carreer out.

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