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Best Crampons for Scarpa Jorasses.

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 andyd1970 28 Dec 2013
Just bought some scarpa Jorasses online to replace my Cumbres but found that my Grivel G12 crampons don't fit properly and the front points have lost a lot of their protrusion. I have searched the forums and found that Petzl Lynx and sarken come up a lot. Has anyone body had any recent experience of other crampons or have used the Lynx or Sarken
thanks
 crayefish 28 Dec 2013
In reply to andyd1970:

What is it about the G12s don't fit well? What attachment system were you using?
OP andyd1970 28 Dec 2013
In reply to andyd1970:

The toe bail plastic harness sat badly around the toe box and the outer sole. Also the top of the crampon and the base of the sole had a big gap that would not pull in on the front and the front points ended up to far back when I made best fit. I have got scarpa Charmoz(old Styles) and the cumbres and had no issues with them at all.
 crayefish 28 Dec 2013
In reply to andyd1970:

Have you tried gently bending the vertical tabs at the front to match the boot better? My ultras are quite narrow in the toe (sounds like the Jorasses are too?) and I had to adjust the tabs on my G12s a little for a good fit, but now I have no problem with the fit. They do need to be done up reasonably tight though for the toe basket to sit tight with no gaps.

Perhaps a pic to see exactly? Would be a shame to buy a new set of crampons if the issue with your current ones could be fixed.

Though I am sure someone with your combination of boots/crampons could offer more specific advice.
OP andyd1970 28 Dec 2013
In reply to andyd1970:

I have already thought of that but I was concerned of the weakness caused to the metal. They would need to be moved quite a bit and this could possibly crack in the process or at a later time, either costing me a new pair of crampons or them breaking off on a climb. Both are prob very unlikely but I was thinkin of selling my G12s and buying something more suitable.
 davy_boy 28 Dec 2013
In reply to andyd1970:

i gave up with my g12s on the jorasses. now using petzl vasak great fit straight out the box. the toe is the same as the phantom range might have more luck searching what people use with the phantoms
 simon1985 28 Dec 2013
In reply to andyd1970:

I spent quite a while in needlesports yesterday looking for some C2's for my Jorasses and the very helpful assistant tried everything they had. The best we came up with was G12 cramp-o-matic with the asymmetric bar. Mine are size 43. The only thing that wasn't 100% was that the wire twists? Either side of the front bale stuck out a bit and seemed like you might catch it but there was absolutely no movement of the crampon. This is defiantly what I'm going to be getting possibly with :

http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Winter-Climbing-Equipment/Crampons/Cr...

Not sure about the lynx but the vasak ( I think this has the same fitting as the sarken)which I read online was good defiantly didn't fit in my size!!

Hope that helps as I've spent quite a while looking online.
 davy_boy 28 Dec 2013
In reply to simonhicklin:
strange that they didn't fit they work on my jorasses and phantoms both size 46. did you try the ones with the wire front bail ?
http://flic.kr/p/iFBKvH
petzl vasak on the phantoms
Post edited at 17:27
 crayefish 28 Dec 2013
In reply to davy_boy:

Strange... worked well on my phantom ultras with only a very slight bend of the tabs. Maybe its different for different sizes of shoe. I have them in size 12 (though my feet are size 13 in width) so perhaps the toe is wider.
 Andrew Lodge 28 Dec 2013
In reply to andyd1970:

I had a pair of Jorasses last year and my G12's fit them really well. I have a good fiddle around before buying anything else, it certainly can be done
 davy_boy 28 Dec 2013
In reply to andyd1970:

my g12s had the basket and I never could get it quite right without bending the tabs. I got a pair of petzls from a mate for next to nothing so that's the main reason I used them. g12s are now relegated to lending out and using on my ski boots but they have seen better days anyway
 NottsRich 28 Dec 2013
In reply to andyd1970:

I use BD Cyborgs with narrow (after sale) front bail and assymetric bar. It's an ok fit but not amazing, with about a 2mm gap on each side between the sole and bail. Size 43 boot.
 Gazlynn 28 Dec 2013
In reply to andyd1970:

I found that the petzl dart or dartwins fit the best out the box and the newer g12s with the yellow basket fit well when you swap the bars over left to the right not the after sales assymetrical bars.

Cheers

Gaz

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